Round2/AMT 1/650 TOS U.S.S. Enterprise

pengbuzz

Sr Member
Some time ago,I finally returned to an old favorite of mine: the original 1/650 AMT old of the TOS Enterprise. My first one was a model kit that someone else had built that they sold for 5 bucks at a tag sale back when I was a kid in the 80's (I know...rawr. I is dinosaur!)

Since that time (as well as a bajillion models of it later), I finally decided to revisit this kit with accurate references (for the first time!). So here we go:

Correction of B/C decks:
101_0261 - Copy.JPG 101_0262 - Copy.JPG 101_0266 - Copy.JPG

"Smash-molding" a new planetary sensor dome and dome base for the lower saucer section:
101_0269 - Copy.JPG 101_0270 - Copy.JPG 101_0273 - Copy.JPG 101_0275 - Copy.JPG

A new Main Bridge dome (my reference is in the back on the screen in the first pic):
101_0277 - Copy.JPG 101_0278 - Copy.JPG 101_0280 - Copy.JPG

Redid the 3 blocks under the Bussard collector (old piece was wayyyyy too short and inaccurate!)
101_0281 - Copy.JPG

Removed, realigned and remounted warp engine pylons to the nacelles. I scrapped the old pylons (they were far too flimsy) and using the old pylons, fabricated a new set from solid styrene plate:
101_0287 - Copy.JPG 101_0289 - Copy.JPG

Since the secondary hull had a rather nasty habit of cracking, splitting and generally falling apart, I reinforced the living daylights out of it with some very heavy styrene plate, Devcon Plastic Welder, and judiciously applied model cement. the heaviest reinforcement was at the internal mounting block for the warp pylon tabs: this essentially became a solid block of styrene after the plastic and adhesives were added. I also added tabs to provide more gluing surface and to lock the halves together, as well as heavy reinforcement against "crush pressure" above the mounting post at the bottom:
101_0302 - Copy.JPG 101_0305 - Copy.JPG 101_0307 - Copy.JPG


Warp nacelles test fitted; slight variances, but not enough to dissuade me. New pylons are mounted in the correct position on the nacelles; the old position was incorrect (compared to official blueprints). Also, secondary hull now sealed up:
101_0314 - Copy.JPG 101_0315 - Copy.JPG 101_0316 - Copy.JPG

Final assembly and start of painting:
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Decalling and weathering:
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Final shots on stand with my scratchbuild of the Cassini space probe:
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Cassini:
101_0397.JPG 101_0398.JPG 101_0399.JPG

A few extra details: 1) I added a post extending from the inside of the bridge dome down through the bottom of the planetary sensor for support and to prevent the hollow saucer from compression damage (the end of the post is actually just outside the ship, as the small "nipple" on the planetary sensor!); 2) I removed the old Bussard domes and smash molded a new pair out of plexiglass, which I then sanded and painted translucent orange, and added an inner piece to replicate the Bussard blades (I replicated the same effect I got from my 1/1000 TOS E build!); 3) I added an upper and lower set of navigation lights and hangar bay dome, all molded from plexiglass using an old paint brush handle:
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Comparison to my 1/1000 build:

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Thanks for looking, folks! See you again soon!
 
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pengbuzz

Sr Member
Scratchbuilt mods, eh? Hardcore, man. There have been more than a few resin correction parts kits, over the years, but you went old-school. Lovely!
Thanks! One big reason I do "old school" is that the resin correction kits cost quite a bit and my money is pretty limited (the model was on sale for 20 bucks, so I snagged it for my birthday last March). But also, it's a challenge to find ways to do these things with the materials I already have on hand.

How much can I accomplish with the little I have? That's the thing! :)
 

Gregatron

Master Member
Thanks! One big reason I do "old school" is that the resin correction kits cost quite a bit and my money is pretty limited (the model was on sale for 20 bucks, so I snagged it for my birthday last March). But also, it's a challenge to find ways to do these things with the materials I already have on hand.

How much can I accomplish with the little I have? That's the thing! :)

Sometimes, the old ways are best. Imperfectly handcrafted with love and care.
 

Chrisisall

Sr Member
Thanks! One big reason I do "old school" is that the resin correction kits cost quite a bit and my money is pretty limited (the model was on sale for 20 bucks, so I snagged it for my birthday last March). But also, it's a challenge to find ways to do these things with the materials I already have on hand.

How much can I accomplish with the little I have? That's the thing! :)
You did her proud, man!
 

publiusr

Well-Known Member
Shaw lowered the B/C decks and it looked much better. My biggest problem wit the kit isn’t the droop—just lean the saucer back.

The nacelles “crowd” the saucer
 

pengbuzz

Sr Member
Shaw lowered the B/C decks and it looked much better. My biggest problem wit the kit isn’t the droop—just lean the saucer back.

The nacelles “crowd” the saucer
I considered that on mine, but with the amount of material I removed, I was worried that I had already weakened the structure considerably (I had sanded some roundness into the b/c hump already and had thin spots showing).

I figure it's not that big a thing, but thanks all the same!
 

mb1k

Well-Known Member
Thanks! One big reason I do "old school" is that the resin correction kits cost quite a bit and my money is pretty limited (the model was on sale for 20 bucks, so I snagged it for my birthday last March). But also, it's a challenge to find ways to do these things with the materials I already have on hand.

How much can I accomplish with the little I have? That's the thing! :)
Great work, nothing "old school" about it. I'm 54-years old and if actually building your own is "old school"...
 

pengbuzz

Sr Member
Now the little plastic domes that come off some drink containers…they are lower sensor dome, right?
Actually, for mine I used a wooden sphere (Hobby Lobby) and some styrene sheet and a heat gun:

Molder from sheet:
101_0269.JPG

Trimmed dome with new two-part base (done on dremel):
101_0273.JPG

Parts glued together:
101_0274.JPG

In place on saucer:
101_0275.JPG
 

pengbuzz

Sr Member
Thanks for this. I have a Big-E I'm (hopefully!) going to start this year, and this will help!
I think these should be of tremendous value to you as well then, Tremas:


 

Tremas

Sr Member
I think these should be of tremendous value to you as well then, Tremas:


Thanks very much for these! :)
 

publiusr

Well-Known Member
One aftermarket set you might want from here;

—might be JTR-065 Bussards, with JTR-042 end caps.

Seeing that the 1/650 nacelles crowd the saucer…I hope some kind soul among you makes a snap-on forward pylon/secondary hull nose extension…or at least cut down the dorsal so the saucer is lower and the nacelles higher for a souped up, hot-rod look.

I don’t remember this
 

pengbuzz

Sr Member
One aftermarket set you might want from here;

—might be JTR-065 Bussards, with JTR-042 end caps.

Seeing that the 1/650 nacelles crowd the saucer…I hope some kind soul among you makes a snap-on forward pylon/secondary hull nose extension…or at least cut down the dorsal so the saucer is lower and the nacelles higher for a souped up, hot-rod look.
When I did mine, I checked the position of the nacelle to that of the plans I was working from:

101_0538.JPG
101_0539.JPG


While the forced perspective shots here didn't come out so well, I did gain from them that a line drawn across the ends of the bussards should meet with the end of the impulse drive.

In any event: I am satisfied with how mine came out. I appreciate the input, but the last time I doubted my work and tore down a model to redo it, I ended up ruining it and having to restart from scratch. Not to mention that I do not have the money to be buying and shipping these kinds of parts (VERY tight budget right now).

Thanks all the same. :)
 

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