spectreseven
Member
the whiphand you can drill the rivets out out with a drill bit that's slightly smaller than the rivets.
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ROGUE ONE Jyn Erso - open build thread!
- Thread starter clembot
- Start date
spectreseven
Member
There's a better photo of the corner of the shirt bib on Entertainment Weekly today: http://www.ew.com/article/2016/10/27/rogue-one-star-wars-felicity-jones-photo
In this one you definitely can't see the vertical line touching the corner of the bib, so now I'm very confused.
In this one you definitely can't see the vertical line touching the corner of the bib, so now I'm very confused.
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CarpElgin
Member
This is exactly what I thought I was seeing the other day. I still find it odd, but it has released me from any attempt to try and redo it before Halloween. I have a feeling it will eventually make sense. Until then, there may only be 2 or 3 dozen people who will even notice it.
smithjohnj
Sr Member
EDIT: Sorry I had my photos mislabeled when I did my comparison. I was comparing the same images but that did not include the new EW image.
This photo is the same one as the Fathead photo with just the background removed. It is also the one I mocked up.
This photo is the same one as the Fathead photo with just the background removed. It is also the one I mocked up.
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spectreseven
Member
Ah, that explains my confusion. I missed a Fathead photo in there. I've been looking at this one where she's wearing her jacket: https://www.fathead.com/star-wars/star-wars-movies/jyn-erso-wall-decal/
smithjohnj
Sr Member
spectreseven, Sorry I was the one confused and was comparing the wrong images and not the new EW image. The EW and Fathead images both seem to indicate the bib and vertical seams do not touch.
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ArmchairNinja
New Member
* This is my first post here * 
I found you guys about a week ago and have been creeping this thread as I work on a costume for my 11 y.o. daughter. Let me tell you how excited I was when she told me she wanted to be Jyn! Thanks for all your hard work that I have benefited from. I got her to a version 1 costume for an event tonight via thrift shop finds, shed digging and some bits and pieces and a little ninja magic.
I need to tweak a couple things for her holster and vest... But I have some scarf material at about 3 yards by 18". Any suggestions for how I should finish that?
Thanks again for your inspiration.
I found you guys about a week ago and have been creeping this thread as I work on a costume for my 11 y.o. daughter. Let me tell you how excited I was when she told me she wanted to be Jyn! Thanks for all your hard work that I have benefited from. I got her to a version 1 costume for an event tonight via thrift shop finds, shed digging and some bits and pieces and a little ninja magic.
I need to tweak a couple things for her holster and vest... But I have some scarf material at about 3 yards by 18". Any suggestions for how I should finish that?
Thanks again for your inspiration.
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smithjohnj
Sr Member
Chrononaut has had two posts on the subject #140 on Page 6 and then an updated in post #181 on Page 8. Here is also a picture of the stitching on the scarf if you want a reference.
http://www.therpf.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=674620&d=1476897621
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ArmchairNinja
New Member
Thanks smithjohnj. I had lost track of Chrononaut 's post. Thanks for your help! Time to pack up the blaster build tools and get out the sewing machine
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smithjohnj
Sr Member
To me, it does not seem,
To always need,
To have a seam.
- M.Y. Self
I have noticed there are a few places in the Jyn Erso wardrobe where there are seams for purely decorative purposes. These seams could provide a practical purpose to provide options for better tailoring or to make more effective use of the fabric but these reasons do not seem to hold up in some circumstances. Specifically I would point to the center front and center back pant leg seams and the cross-wise seam in her scarf.
I like to incorporate the original design aesthetics into my work but I am also lazy and try to avoid extra work whenever possible. For example I have a perfectly good commercial pattern in Simplicity 2700 for Jyn pants. I could make the center seams by splitting the front and back pattern pieces and then adding extra seam allowances. Or, I could try to remember to just fold the pieces and position them so the fabric edge lines are offset by the seam allowances. (I have tried the latter in other projects and often “forget” to do it consistently or correctly.) Both of these approaches require extra cutting and modification of a pattern I may want to repurpose in the future. The extra seams require additional finishing if I want a better inside look to the garments.
I used a mock seam to provide the same visual design. This saves some time and slightly reduces the amount of fabric required as it minimizes the amount of fabric required for seam allowances. The approach for the pant leg is to cut the front and back pieces approximately 1/2” wider. In my case I can just use a garment size which is two sizes larger than the pants I am making. If I need to modify the pattern I only need to make adjustments to two pattern pieces and not four if I were to split the patterns. Another option is that because this pattern is for trousers and not a tighter fitting pant style, cutting the regular size pattern and using this approach will remove 1” of ease from each pant leg which might work in some cases and save even more time and fabric.
I then fold the each fabric piece, “right sides together” 1/4” away from where I want the “seam” and sew a straight seam 1/4” from the folded edge. I then open the seam and press the resulting flap to either the left or right side of the seam on the “wrong side” of the piece and then topstitch just slightly (1/8”) to the left or right of the seam on the “right side”. (Note that the center seams differ on the left and right legs which is why you need to press and topstitch to either the left or right depending upon which leg and whether it is the front or back center seam..) This provides a single line of topstitching on the“right side” and a double line of stitching on the “wrong side”. Once these preliminary steps are done to the fabric piece, the garment is assembled following the normal instructions.
This mock seam can also be used to add the cross-seam into the scarf without joining two separate pieces. If you have made your scarf in one piece and want to add the seam,pick the location (in my example 5/8” away from where you want the actual seam) and this time fold “wrong sides” together as you want the two lines of stitching on the “right side”. You also need to decide how far apart you want the lines of stitching. I will assume 1/2”. (However this will shorten your scarf length by 1 and 1/4”) Then stitch a straight seam 5/8” away from the folded edge, open the seam and press the flap to the left side of the seam. (Because I am picky, I stitch the initial seam to the "right" of the fold, because this will be the side of stitches which will be on the "right side" of the fabric when I am done. If I stitch to the left of the fold as normal, then the better line of stitching for my machine ends up being unseen on the "wrong side".) On the “right side of the fabric”, add the topstich 1/2” to the left of the seam.
Here is a sample which has been cut to show the “right” “edge” and “wrong” views.
To always need,
To have a seam.
- M.Y. Self
I have noticed there are a few places in the Jyn Erso wardrobe where there are seams for purely decorative purposes. These seams could provide a practical purpose to provide options for better tailoring or to make more effective use of the fabric but these reasons do not seem to hold up in some circumstances. Specifically I would point to the center front and center back pant leg seams and the cross-wise seam in her scarf.
I like to incorporate the original design aesthetics into my work but I am also lazy and try to avoid extra work whenever possible. For example I have a perfectly good commercial pattern in Simplicity 2700 for Jyn pants. I could make the center seams by splitting the front and back pattern pieces and then adding extra seam allowances. Or, I could try to remember to just fold the pieces and position them so the fabric edge lines are offset by the seam allowances. (I have tried the latter in other projects and often “forget” to do it consistently or correctly.) Both of these approaches require extra cutting and modification of a pattern I may want to repurpose in the future. The extra seams require additional finishing if I want a better inside look to the garments.
I used a mock seam to provide the same visual design. This saves some time and slightly reduces the amount of fabric required as it minimizes the amount of fabric required for seam allowances. The approach for the pant leg is to cut the front and back pieces approximately 1/2” wider. In my case I can just use a garment size which is two sizes larger than the pants I am making. If I need to modify the pattern I only need to make adjustments to two pattern pieces and not four if I were to split the patterns. Another option is that because this pattern is for trousers and not a tighter fitting pant style, cutting the regular size pattern and using this approach will remove 1” of ease from each pant leg which might work in some cases and save even more time and fabric.
I then fold the each fabric piece, “right sides together” 1/4” away from where I want the “seam” and sew a straight seam 1/4” from the folded edge. I then open the seam and press the resulting flap to either the left or right side of the seam on the “wrong side” of the piece and then topstitch just slightly (1/8”) to the left or right of the seam on the “right side”. (Note that the center seams differ on the left and right legs which is why you need to press and topstitch to either the left or right depending upon which leg and whether it is the front or back center seam..) This provides a single line of topstitching on the“right side” and a double line of stitching on the “wrong side”. Once these preliminary steps are done to the fabric piece, the garment is assembled following the normal instructions.
This mock seam can also be used to add the cross-seam into the scarf without joining two separate pieces. If you have made your scarf in one piece and want to add the seam,pick the location (in my example 5/8” away from where you want the actual seam) and this time fold “wrong sides” together as you want the two lines of stitching on the “right side”. You also need to decide how far apart you want the lines of stitching. I will assume 1/2”. (However this will shorten your scarf length by 1 and 1/4”) Then stitch a straight seam 5/8” away from the folded edge, open the seam and press the flap to the left side of the seam. (Because I am picky, I stitch the initial seam to the "right" of the fold, because this will be the side of stitches which will be on the "right side" of the fabric when I am done. If I stitch to the left of the fold as normal, then the better line of stitching for my machine ends up being unseen on the "wrong side".) On the “right side of the fabric”, add the topstich 1/2” to the left of the seam.
Here is a sample which has been cut to show the “right” “edge” and “wrong” views.
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Anne Jones
New Member
Has anyone posted a pattern for the boot mods?
Dimahleesi
New Member
I present my rush job for Halloween! With my date being a stormtrooper I couldn't avoid getting stuck in binders, but of course I escaped soon after! [emoji316]
Chrononaut
Member
I was able to use a large screwdriver to pry them off, and then cut the attachment screw off with a nippers. It wasn't the most elegant way to get them off (and it took a while) but it worked.
Yup, here you go. Note that the notch in the upper corner of the bottom flap needs to be larger than shown if you want to rivet the Lange buckles to the shoe and make them functional, I didn't have the buckles yet when I made the mock-up.
ArmchairNinja
New Member
@Chrononaut - Your scarf pattern was super helpful! Thanks! I modified the sizing for my little Jyn 18" wide (I would have added the seem allowances if I did it again) x 3 Yards with 36" tapers. She is thrilled! My sewing can only get better
My Candy Minions better bring home some good loot for me to ensure the safety of, while they sleep... No Doubt I have some helmets and armour to make in the future.
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spectreseven
Member
You look great! Your droid caller looks especially good. How did you make it?
Chrononaut
Member
ArmchairNinja - looks amazing, glad I could be of help!
I wore my (half-finished) Jyn Erso to work today. I found it was helpful to safety pin the scarf to the back of my shoulders, which kept it from sliding around and either choking me or falling out of place, since I was moving around a lot.
I wore my (half-finished) Jyn Erso to work today. I found it was helpful to safety pin the scarf to the back of my shoulders, which kept it from sliding around and either choking me or falling out of place, since I was moving around a lot.
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Almost there...
Restill
Member
There are several posts about it on page 13 (http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=259118&page=13) that seem helpful for removing the straps. Where did you get your Lange boots? One of the posters said she'd send straps to me, and I paid her for them, but she never sent them, and has disappeared. I'm not sure where to go from here!
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