ROGUE ONE Jyn Erso - open build thread!
- Thread starter clembot
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CarpElgin
Member
With all the weathering the shoe polish might actually work. I've also looked at the Angelus shoe dyes/paint which look to be long lasting and opaque, but that is just a backup plan. I'm in the not-quite-ready-to-commit-to-orders phase right now. (That reminds me, I need to put a stitching awl on my list.) Thankfully, I've convinced myself that (especially on the vest) a great deal of weathering, a few rounds of very diluted brown/black dye, and possibly some weatherproofing wax -- since I used 100% cotton -- will go a long way towards making my current version of the vest, look a lot closer to screen accurate.
Which would probably make this a good time to type up some vest building instructions to go with smithjohnj 's fantastic pattern pieces, right?
narutoishere
Well-Known Member
What about the death star plan hard-drive that Jyn Erson carries? It's an important costume prop. Why does nobody care?
narutoishere
Well-Known Member
After browsing 9 pages of comments, none of you mentioned anything about the hard-drive she's carrying, instead of having 4 pages focusing on type of boots she's wearing.
narutoishere
Well-Known Member
You may as well point out the Jonin vest costume in Naruto. You can get cheap vests from Forever 21 which can be easily customized. That's where I get all the cheap clothing for customization.
smithjohnj
Sr Member
narutoishere I have put together rough diagrams for 5 of the six sides of the data storage unit based on the beach photos. I believe the sixth side is displayed in the "subway" photos but they are too indistinct and distorted by orientation to provide anything useful. I have not published those diagrams as they are incomplete as I work on other Jyn Erso elements. They may also change if more photos are released. Please feel free to contribute anything you have on the data storage unit. I would be very interested to see your ideas.
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narutoishere
Well-Known Member
Hello, SJJ. I appreciate the response. Two scenes in the trailers show the data drive - beach and London subway. One side clearly shows the hard-drive look (2 chrome circles); the back side seems to show an imperial symbol and some kind of darkish interface connection on a white layer. I was hoping Jyn Erso action figure would have this accessories so I could take a clear look. But, the figure does not come with the data drive accessory... Anyhow I figure to get a cheap plastic crayon case from a local dollar shop and add foamies for details. I'll post some photos when it's done tonight. I'm going to use it for this weekend as part of my costume...
Chrononaut
Member
Progress! I painted the stripes on my jacket. They are approximately 1 cm tall and 2mm apart. I was not able to get them to puff, but that's probably a function of my skill at puffy paint and reversing the mix: I used approximately 2/3 Tulip Matte Dandelion Yellow to 1/3 Tulip Puffy White, with a smidgen of Liquitex acrylic in Burnt Sienna. Presumably using Puffy Yellow and Matte White would have worked better. The stripes were taped off with strips of masking tape, which worked pretty well for the most part.
However, now that it's finished, I'm worried that it may be too bright of a yellow. Any suggestions for weathering? The jacket could use some "dirt" overall anyway. (The actual color is in between the darker portion under the arm and the rest of the jacket - lighting issues - but the stripes are accurately colored)
However, now that it's finished, I'm worried that it may be too bright of a yellow. Any suggestions for weathering? The jacket could use some "dirt" overall anyway. (The actual color is in between the darker portion under the arm and the rest of the jacket - lighting issues - but the stripes are accurately colored)
smithjohnj
Sr Member
EDIT: This version has also been surpassed by newer photos. The front yoke has been replaced with an inset bib which matches the Disney costume.
After a switch to other Jyn Erso projects I finally got back to work on her garments. I have updated my original blouse yoke pattern to incorporate the improved details provided by @redclayk. This adds a vertical seam on each yoke piece. This modification matches the screen photos and helps reduce the bulk of the fabric at the neck and shoulder seams. This new seam is located approximately at the point where the fold of the opposite yoke piece ends. Adding this seam allows an opportunity to make another modification; adding magnetic closures to each yoke.
I kept the diagram of the pattern the same as the original so I would not confuse anyone who worked with the original and also so it would still print onto a piece of legal size paper. Since the new piece is NOT double the length of the pattern as the original was, it will probably be easier to cut a full size pattern without the fold and use that pattern to cut the fabric. This will also allow you to layer two pieces of fabric, right sides together and cut both pieces at the same time which would have been more difficult to do when cutting what would have been four layers of fabric with the folds.
A magnetic closure is probably not screen accurate but it adds my own touch of pseudo-realism as I think it produces a more functional garment. I believe it also adds some benefits to the wearer which I list below. The closure is accomplished by using four, very small, round, thin, rare earth magnets. One ones I used are called Super Magnets found at Home Depot in the hardware section. They are .375” (3/8” or 9.5 mm) in diameter and .06” (1/16” or 1.5 mm) thick. One magnet is added into the upper, unattached corner of each yoke and the opposite mating magnet is added into a channel which is formed by the new vertical seam. The channel results from making a narrow double folded hem and using the seam to both finish the back portion of the yoke and attach it to the front portion of the yoke. For the magnets I used I found that a 1/2” channel would hold the magnets and still provide the clearance for the needle to sew the channel seam (very slowly, turning the machine by hand to avoid hitting the magnet which will break the magnet, needle or both). Different sized magnets will require some adjustment, and practicing is a good idea to see how the magnets may work (or not) with the metal elements of your sewing machine.
To keep the magnets in the proper position I made four small pockets of white embroidery stabilizer (because I had it available), but any lightweight fabric which will not show through the yoke fabric should work. I made all four pockets by sewing eight parallel lines of stitching, 1/2” apart, on a folded piece of stabilizer and then cut the pockets apart and trimming them down to size. A template to produce these pockets is also provided on the pattern. Each finished pocket was approximately 3/4 x 1 1/2” folded on one side, sewn along two sides leaving the fourth side open. One magnet was placed into each pocket; the envelope was then wrapped into the position of the double fold seam on one end and the upper surplice seam on the other end. The seams closed the fourth side of each envelope and also hold the magnets in the correct locations.
For me the magnets provide two functions. First, they hold the upper corner flap end of the right yoke in place and second, the little bit of added weight of the magnet helps the unattached edge of the left yoke to drape a little easier. A third advantage but not one illustrated in any photos is it allows closure of the left yoke giving a smooth finished look. (It could also be helpful if caught in a blowing rain storm.)
I have put together a set of more detailed instructions and photos of the yoke construction which I can provide if there is interest.
View attachment Jyn Erso Blouse Seamed Yoke.pdf
After a switch to other Jyn Erso projects I finally got back to work on her garments. I have updated my original blouse yoke pattern to incorporate the improved details provided by @redclayk. This adds a vertical seam on each yoke piece. This modification matches the screen photos and helps reduce the bulk of the fabric at the neck and shoulder seams. This new seam is located approximately at the point where the fold of the opposite yoke piece ends. Adding this seam allows an opportunity to make another modification; adding magnetic closures to each yoke.
I kept the diagram of the pattern the same as the original so I would not confuse anyone who worked with the original and also so it would still print onto a piece of legal size paper. Since the new piece is NOT double the length of the pattern as the original was, it will probably be easier to cut a full size pattern without the fold and use that pattern to cut the fabric. This will also allow you to layer two pieces of fabric, right sides together and cut both pieces at the same time which would have been more difficult to do when cutting what would have been four layers of fabric with the folds.
A magnetic closure is probably not screen accurate but it adds my own touch of pseudo-realism as I think it produces a more functional garment. I believe it also adds some benefits to the wearer which I list below. The closure is accomplished by using four, very small, round, thin, rare earth magnets. One ones I used are called Super Magnets found at Home Depot in the hardware section. They are .375” (3/8” or 9.5 mm) in diameter and .06” (1/16” or 1.5 mm) thick. One magnet is added into the upper, unattached corner of each yoke and the opposite mating magnet is added into a channel which is formed by the new vertical seam. The channel results from making a narrow double folded hem and using the seam to both finish the back portion of the yoke and attach it to the front portion of the yoke. For the magnets I used I found that a 1/2” channel would hold the magnets and still provide the clearance for the needle to sew the channel seam (very slowly, turning the machine by hand to avoid hitting the magnet which will break the magnet, needle or both). Different sized magnets will require some adjustment, and practicing is a good idea to see how the magnets may work (or not) with the metal elements of your sewing machine.
To keep the magnets in the proper position I made four small pockets of white embroidery stabilizer (because I had it available), but any lightweight fabric which will not show through the yoke fabric should work. I made all four pockets by sewing eight parallel lines of stitching, 1/2” apart, on a folded piece of stabilizer and then cut the pockets apart and trimming them down to size. A template to produce these pockets is also provided on the pattern. Each finished pocket was approximately 3/4 x 1 1/2” folded on one side, sewn along two sides leaving the fourth side open. One magnet was placed into each pocket; the envelope was then wrapped into the position of the double fold seam on one end and the upper surplice seam on the other end. The seams closed the fourth side of each envelope and also hold the magnets in the correct locations.
For me the magnets provide two functions. First, they hold the upper corner flap end of the right yoke in place and second, the little bit of added weight of the magnet helps the unattached edge of the left yoke to drape a little easier. A third advantage but not one illustrated in any photos is it allows closure of the left yoke giving a smooth finished look. (It could also be helpful if caught in a blowing rain storm.)
I have put together a set of more detailed instructions and photos of the yoke construction which I can provide if there is interest.
View attachment Jyn Erso Blouse Seamed Yoke.pdf
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Chrononaut
Member
I believe this picture shows that the "riding seam" up the back of the legs (as shown in the sketch by CarpElgin below) continues all the way up to to the waistband of the pants. It looks to be a straight seam, not curved across the back like Han Solo's: http://static.srcdn.com/wp-content/...Gareth-Edwards-Felicity-Jones-Diego-Luna.jpeg
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Chrononaut
Member
(duplicate post)
CarpElgin
Member
Great catch! I've been looking for confirmation either way for a long time, and this is the best image I've seen of that seam!
I think I need to go back in and make the changes to that back seam and correct the number of pleats on that line drawing.
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CarpElgin
Member
You weren't the only one who was happy with version 1. Garry Whitta tweeted your picture (with him) from SDCC yesterday!
https://twitter.com/garywhitta/status/772174885774696448
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CarpElgin
Member
I just went back and looked through my notes and have a few additional observations (mostly from the Toy Fair photos.)
-- The sleeve seam is actually about halfway up the back, instead of right under the arm, with a row of topstitching on either side (like on either side of the inserted printed panel.)
-- The seam under the pocket on the front left side, might actually be an inverted box pleat. You can see a sliver of it on the right side under the vest. I need to look closer at the newer images, to see if there is anything to make that clearer.
This is the closest existing pattern I've found for the jacket. (Probably ordering it this week.)
http://www.lekala.co/catalog/women/jackets/pattern/5485#model
The sleeve seam, collar, yoke, and tacked down placket are really similar. From what I've read, most of their patterns run quite tight, but since you input your own measurements, that should still end up making it a pretty workable base.
smithjohnj
Sr Member
I believe some of the inspiration for the battle jacket comes from military garments such as the M-69 field jacket. This has chest pockets and below them, slash pockets you could put your hands into. Having a pleat under the chest pocket makes sense to provide a roomier pocket below.
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CarpElgin
Member
The Disney Store Jyn kids costume is up for preorder. And it looks like the collar on the shirt is constructed differently that we were expecting, but it would explain that seam on the yoke.
https://m.disneystore.com/costumes-...-star-wars-story-preorder/mp/1415706/1000396/
https://m.disneystore.com/costumes-...-star-wars-story-preorder/mp/1415706/1000396/
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smithjohnj
Sr Member
Proving once again once you know what you are looking for you can see it, CarpElgin discovery of Disney costume neckline is consistent with the video evidence. After redclayk discovered the vertical seam in the Celebration Reel, what I thought was the bottom of the yoke, under higher magnification appears to be just a wrinkle and shadow in the fabric.
Here is the best I could find, for others to analyze.
View attachment Disney Blouse.pdf
Here is the best I could find, for others to analyze.
View attachment Disney Blouse.pdf
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CarpElgin
Member
Oh bother, I was really hoping it was just a child's costume cheat, but that frame is perfect. Guess I have a new dark gray everyday shirt.
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Chrononaut
Member
So basically, it's a modified shawl collar instead of a yoke? My "backup" shirt turned out to be semi-accurate! 
https://www.rei.com/product/102735/toadco-divinitee-shirt-womens (and yikes, I must have gotten it on sale!)
I think I have a woven tunic that I could get a pretty good pattern from, too...good thing it's still sitting in my car and I didn't actually make it to Goodwill yet! And I think if you cut the collar right, you wouldn't need it to open in the back like the kid's costume shirt.
It is weird how you can see things you missed before when someone points them out. I looked through some other pictures on Pinterest and I can see that seam now too.
https://www.rei.com/product/102735/toadco-divinitee-shirt-womens (and yikes, I must have gotten it on sale!)I think I have a woven tunic that I could get a pretty good pattern from, too...good thing it's still sitting in my car and I didn't actually make it to Goodwill yet! And I think if you cut the collar right, you wouldn't need it to open in the back like the kid's costume shirt.
It is weird how you can see things you missed before when someone points them out. I looked through some other pictures on Pinterest and I can see that seam now too.
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