Reworked Coyle BR blaster

superjedi

Sr Member
Hi all,
Well, I have some extra time this holiday week, so after a long debate, I decided to weather my Coyle v4.x C & S blaster. This was Rich's latest plastic version, before the "W" pics appeared.
(What? What pics? I don't know what you're talking about :lol )
I wanted to make it "service-weathered" but not all rusty and forgotten looking.

I started by trying to figure out a good metal shade to use on the Steyr receiver. I had some Testors metalizer sprays from previous model projects, and tested a couple different shades on some scrap plastic. The color I finally settled on was Titanium #1454. I had some Stainless Steel, but it looked waaaaaaay too light on my test piece. I didn't want to just settle for a dark metal shade, but wanted to make it look just slightly abused. Like it had been used for a while in a dank, rainy futuristic environment. . . hmm, sounds like a movie or something. :)
I field stripped the blaster before painting and masked off appropriate areas. Rich's attention to detail makes disassembly extremely easy, as almost everything is held together using real screws. :thumbsup

I tested a few different ways to make the metal look slightly discolored and pitted, and wound up going with this method:
I ground up some pastels (brown and blue-gray) onto a large sheet of sandpaper. I ground up quite a bit. After that, I used a soft 1-inch paintbrush to gather the pastel dust into a good size pile on the sandpaper. I took this mixture out to my paint area (my balcony).
I sprayed on the Testors Titanium, and IMMEDIATELY sprinkled pastel powder onto the surface using that 1-inch paintbrush. Some particles were super-fine, and some were a little coarser. I let the paint dry for a couple of hours, then gently buffed it using an old cotton T-shirt. I made sure to paint all the Steyr parts together, so they'd wind up with the same tone.

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This came out so well (IMHO) that I wanted to use the same technique on the Bulldog parts.
From the reference pics, it was hard to tell if these were the exact same shade or not. I decided the Bulldog parts were a tad lighter than the Steyr parts, so I looked at my spray tests, and found that Testors Magnesium #1453 gave a good contrast. I used the same technique on these parts. Spray, then sprinkle in the pastel dust right away. After drying/buffing, the effect was really like looking at old worn metal.

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For the remaining black plastic parts, I chipped the finish with an X-acto blade, and used a fine grade sanding stick to rough up the surface and add some scratches.

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The last mod I wanted to do was pretty scary, at least for me. I wanted to alter the buttplate to make the back end curve in, to match the curve of the backstrap. It took me a day or so to decide to actually go ahead and do this. :)
I used my Dremel with a small sanding drum, and roughed out the curve. I finished it off with progressively finer grades of sandpaper using a sanding block. I think it came out OK. I also added a .020" styrene plate to the bottom, just to give it a little more thickness. I redrilled the holes for the 2 attach screws, then primered the piece and repainted it using metalizer Stainless Steel #1452, buffing after it dried. For the final step, I painted the buttplate bottom with flat black acrylic, and scratched and chipped it using an old dental tool. Then I sanded it slightly so the chips weren't so hard-edged.

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So there she is. A well-used replicant hunter.
Thanks for looking.
Eric
 
Dude, AWESOME job.

Any chance of posting a full beauty shot of the whole gun?

P.S. :thumbsup :thumbsup
 
Thanks guys. It was pretty nerve-wracking doing mods to this piece. Mostly cuz it was so $$$$$ to begin with. But I think it came out OK.

Nexus6, right now I'm stuck with our old Canon 2.0 Mp digicam until my wife gets home from vacation.
This is the best overall shot of the blaster I have right now.

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By the way, all these pics were shot in natural and incandescent light in my living room. The colors depicted are pretty much as they appear in "real life." :)
 
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(amish @ Dec 26 2006, 01:09 PM) [snapback]1384824[/snapback]</div>
That really looks amazing.. It has a truly believable finish to it.
[/b]


no kidding... it doesnt look plastic... :D

very VERY nice job.

subtlty is def the key with this prop. :thumbsup :thumbsup
 
That gets my Post-Worldcon Seal of Approval. B) :thumbsup

I especially like the bottom of the buttplate. :D

- k
 
Very Very Nice... I think you have captured a realistic look very well. I may have to try the pastel technique out. It is similar to some stuff I have done before, but I thing your's looks perfect. It gives me another option to try at least. I have several guns to work on and i might try this with an off-world gun. Thank you.
 
Very well done. I would probably weather it by sponging on some acrylic paint instead of the pastels, but that's me. :)
 
Thanks all. Like I said, I had debated a long time whether I wanted to do this or not.
But primarily doing Star War props, I guess I've gotten used to "non-pristine" looking weapons. :)

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(phase pistol @ Dec 26 2006, 05:57 PM) [snapback]1384990[/snapback]</div>
That gets my Post-Worldcon Seal of Approval. B) :thumbsup


- k
[/b]

Wow. Cool. B)
 
Curving the back of the buttplate to match the back strap was a good move, since that "straight-sided" buttplate just has to be fixed to get the grip to look right.

Actually the buttplate has a footprint that looks like a gumdrop, with outward-curving sides... nobody gets that right I think.

One other mod you might have done would have been to drill out the side under the Steyr lever, to reveal the bulldog cylinder. (assuming that it's intact in there, since it's not meant to be visible I guess)

- k
 
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(phase pistol @ Dec 26 2006, 07:35 PM) [snapback]1385036[/snapback]</div>
Actually the buttplate has a footprint that looks like a gumdrop, with outward-curving sides... nobody gets that right I think.

One other mod you might have done would have been to drill out the side under the Steyr lever, to reveal the bulldog cylinder. (assuming that it's intact in there, since it's not meant to be visible I guess)

- k
[/b]

I hear ya on the gumdrop shape. I just couldn't figure out a way to reshape the piece without messing up that "finger swoop" on the front.

I know that right side cylinder cover is actually 2 pieces. But with this being just a display piece, I didn't want to go thru the trouble of chopping it up. I know. . . I'm lazy. :lol
 
Let me add my "Great Job" and say the side cover is not two part just cut down low like a good dress on a girl.

A deep V shape as it is. Well U shape...

Rich

PS if you were in Phoenix I might have work for you...
 
Rich,
Good analogy for the cut-down side cover. :lol
Thanks for supplying such a great blaster to work with. Hope to see more pics of your new version as it come along. :thumbsup
True, I'm not in Phoenix. . . but I'm just a couple hours down the road in Tucson. ;)
 
Today I completed a display case for my C&S blaster.
I have a lot of my SW blasters in individual acrylic cases, but I wanted something that looked different for my Blade Runner blaster.
I looked around at Michael's today and saw a lot of glass display cases. Most of them had wood trim on all the corners and around the top, and I didn't like the way those looked. Then I saw some shadow boxes and figured I could adapt one of them to make a nice display.
I got the 8 x 10 size, which is 2 or 2 1/2 inches deep. I also looked thru their craft paper section and saw some cool sheets of silver and gun metal colored paper, but I finally settled on a weathered copper color that had some texture to it.
I removed the back of the shadow box and cut the copper paper to fit. Then I positioned the blaster where I wanted it and drilled small holes thru the paper and backer board to add some acrylic supports. I cut 2 sections of clear acrylic rod and buffed the ends with a polishing wheel on my Dremel. They aren't perfectly crystal clear, but they look nice. I drilled into 1 end of each rod and secured them thru the back with tiny machine screws. Then I cut a slightly shorter section of acrylic rod and positioned it close to the lower corner for the display plaque. I stuck the plaque on with a dot of super glue, and voila. All in all, it took about an hour to do. It's easy to get into, so if at some point I want to change the background, I can do it in just a few minutes. :)

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