Repainting My P1 Mask - Finished But Need Help, Problem With Clear Coat

troggs

New Member
I bought this mask from Panik33 about a year and a half ago, and as the paint is now starting to crack and it doesn't really match my skin I thought I would have a go at repainting it.
mask1.jpg


mask2.jpg

I removed the teeth apart from the ones on the lower mandibles as these were cast in one piece.
I cleaned up some seam lines and then gave the mask a good going over with a wire brush then gave it a wipe over with acetone.

After applying Aquafix, I sprayed on a base coat of white.
mask3.jpg


The next step was a coat of raw sienna to start the shading.
mask5.jpg


Next was a coat of antelope brown, followed by burnt umber to start the spots.
mask6.jpg

mask7.jpg

mask8.jpg

Black was now added to finish off the spot work, and I also painted around the eye holes.
mask9.jpg


mask10.jpg


mask11.jpg

I think I'm pretty happy with the way it's come out so far, any comments or advice are greatly appreciated, hopefully I'll get it finished over the next couple of days.
 
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Looks great so far, the only thing that stands out are the bits that are bright white, i would be tempted to add a drop of antelope brown in some white and then do some mottling on the cheaks.
I do that along with along with a layer of black and flesh tone.
 
Looks great so far, the only thing that stands out are the bits that are bright white, i would be tempted to add a drop of antelope brown in some white and then do some mottling on the cheaks.
I do that along with along with a layer of black and flesh tone.

i agree. it would make your mask look more realistic :)
 
Looks great so far, the only thing that stands out are the bits that are bright white, i would be tempted to add a drop of antelope brown in some white and then do some mottling on the cheaks.
I do that along with along with a layer of black and flesh tone.
Thanks for the advice dude, hopefully it looks a bit better now
i agree. it would make your mask look more realistic :)
Re- paint is looking great so far mate!
Thanks for the positive comments guys, I think I'm a lot happier with it now, just got a bit more work to do inside the mouth and glue the teeth back in.
mask12.jpg


mask13.jpg


mask14.jpg


mask15.jpg
 
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I think I'm going to call this done as far as the painting goes, I'm pretty happy with it now, but when I started to apply the Liquitex gloss medium and varnish to seal the paint I noticed the Liquitex in the tub was starting to show faint signs of brown in it.
Turns out it was starting to take the paint off.
I've used Liquitex on my skin, gloves and feet with no ill effects so far, so I'm stumped as to why this is happening - any thoughts guys?
Anyway, here's pics of the finished mask before the clear coat.

mask16.jpg


mask17.jpg


mask18.jpg


mask19.jpg
 
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I usually airbrush my 1st coat of liquitex on, then a 2nd coat with a brush, as a brush can drag the paint if you are not careful.
 
Should be fine, but i did the same as you , i used a brush the 1st time and in places it smudges slightly, whether this was just because it had not dried or adherd im not sure, but since then i use a OLD airbrush for the 1st clear coat, then i can happily apply another with a brush.

The airbrush i use for this was my 1st ever airbrush, purchased off ebay for £9.99, ive abused it /forgot to clean it and generally treated it like hell, but it keeps ticking, just need to give it a good clean every few months hehe.
 
The airbrush method worked fine , thanks for that.

As to using an old airbrush, I've only got 1 at the moment, an ebay special, I think it was £40 including the compressor, it seems to be handling everything at the moment, are there any advantages in getting a more expensive airbrush?
 
Alot of the cheap ones work great, and a posh airbrush will not make you a better painter to be honest, but its always nice to ave a nice airbrush for your finer work and brands like iwata are very well made and machined.
 
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