Removing paint from a stormtrooper helmet

[ItalianNinja86]

Ok gang mystery time and I need your help to solve this one

I have a storm trooper helmet and well I messed up painting bad

not like oooooh there a run here or there bad I talking the paints uneven,

cracking, and generaly just craptastic I know it can be salvaged

I just need to know if anyone here knows a safe way to remove the paint

its made from styrene of hips

(one of the two are they the same i dont know maybe you do :lol)

so any tips on safely removing the paint without it warping damaging or

eating through the helmet would be appreciated

 

[Too Much Garlic]

Got some pictures? Maybe it looks like the originals.

Never tried it but heard good things about Gastrol Super Clean (also known as Purple Power).

 

[Pete SSS]

I'd steer clear of ANY solvents if I were you, Styrene is wonderful stuff, but when vacformed. the thickness of the material is very uneven, thicker in some parts and much thinner in others, as a result, solvent paint removers may be OK on the thicker parts, but will likely "eat" through (or at least distort) thinner sections.

That said I've not come across Gastrol Super Clean, it must be worth a shot if it's got a good reputation.

I think you may just have to spend a couple of evenings in front of the TV scrubbing/sanding the paint off with some 800 or 1200 wet and dry paper.

Good luck!

 

[Too Much Garlic]

From what I've heard over at the clubhouse it has been used for resin, cold cast, polystone, vinyl and possibly injection molded styrene kits. I haven't tried it yet, so really can't vouch for it, but it is the number one product mentioned anytime someone asks for a good paint stripper for kits.

You have to let it soak, completely submerged in the solution for some time.

But with anything... test it before just doing it on the whole piece.

 

[oblagon]

I would stay away from all solvents as most in my experience will eat ABS or styrene and then you'll not only be sanding off paint goop but also will have to resurface you're helmet with bondo.

If it's just a bad paint job I would sand the surface with sandpaper (start with 600 then finish with 1500 grit) to even everything out and then reapply another layer of paint.

 

[pennywise]

I would stay away from all solvents as most in my experience will eat ABS or styrene and then you'll not only be sanding off paint goop but also will have to resurface you're helmet with bondo.

If it's just a bad paint job I would sand the surface with sandpaper (start with 600 then finish with 1500 grit) to even everything out and then reapply another layer of paint.

What he said:thumbsup

 

[Funky]

I'd steer clear of ANY solvents if I were you, Styrene is wonderful stuff, but when vacformed. the thickness of the material is very uneven, thicker in some parts and much thinner in others, as a result, solvent paint removers may be OK on the thicker parts, but will likely "eat" through (or at least distort) thinner sections.

That said I've not come across Gastrol Super Clean, it must be worth a shot if it's got a good reputation.

I think you may just have to spend a couple of evenings in front of the TV scrubbing/sanding the paint off with some 800 or 1200 wet and dry paper.

Good luck!

To this man you should listen. Solvents are hit and miss and though may seem okay after you use them, sometimes it can have a negative reaction with the new paint.
Sanding is the only way I'd go with this. It doesn't have to be hard sanding but a milder one.

 

[Sonnenschein]

I recently stripped a helmet with oven cleaner spray. Worked wonders and didn't harm the plastic.

K.

To this man you should listen. Solvents are hit and miss and though may seem okay after you use them, sometimes it can have a negative reaction with the new paint.
Sanding is the only way I'd go with this. It doesn't have to be hard sanding but a milder one.

 

[AaronLee]

If you want to play it safe stick with sandpaper, it's a hassle and takes a while but personally I haven't had much luck with solvents/paint strippers

 

[MasterLe]

I know pretty well known paint removers from experience. Also because I'm picky with paint jobs. there's many solvents you can use. At Autozone or checkers or what ever automotive store that you know of. Theirs paint remover that called aircraft paint remover. really strong stuff. I would recommend using breather mask and gloves.

Another one you can use is Pure Acetone, i would recommend not having that "acetone" on "sitting" for longer periods of time. It would literally eat the plastic or styrene. that one of the best one I've use to remove paint easily.


recap:

-Aircraft Paint remover: Harsh on the user, but safe on the item

-Pure Acetone: Safe on the user, but harsh on the item if not work with quickly enough. "dab acetone one paper towel or rag, then fast circular motions in paint removing area, pretty quick process"

Also you'll need a lot of paper towels and plastic gloves. hope that help

 

[Finhead]

I know pretty well known paint removers from experience. Also because I'm picky with paint jobs. there's many solvents you can use. At Autozone or checkers or what ever automotive store that you know of. Theirs paint remover that called aircraft paint remover. really strong stuff. I would recommend using breather mask and gloves.

Another one you can use is Pure Acetone, i would recommend not having that "acetone" on "sitting" for longer periods of time. It would literally eat the plastic or styrene. that one of the best one I've use to remove paint easily.

Also you'll need a lot of paper towels and plastic gloves. hope that help

Absolutely do not use either of these, you'll have a melted helmet in no time. I know from 25+ years experience in Autobody, any kind of solvents will eventually react with the styrene. Mightnot be for awhile but it will break it down and it'll get very brittle. I'm going to third the sanding option, might take a bit longer but you have total control and it's not going to weaken or effect your piece in any way.

 

[MasterLe]

Absolutely do not use either of these, you'll have a melted helmet in no time. I know from 25+ years experience in Autobody, any kind of solvents will eventually react with the styrene. Might not be for awhile but it will break it down and it'll get very brittle. I'm going to third the sanding option, might take a bit longer but you have total control and it's not going to weaken or effect your piece in any way.

actually it works very well for me "guess it depends on experience". i have experience in automotive as well 18+ years too, plus my dads knowledge 50+ years.

i guess sanding for beginner is need in this option.

 

[METALLBOY]

Try submerging the entire helmet in plenty of Pinesoil or spray it with plenty of oven cleaner and make sure its cover and sealed in a big airtight plastic bag. Check on it every hr and you'll see the paint stripping itself away. You can then wash it all off with soap and water.

 

[Finhead]

actually it works very well for me "guess it depends on experience". i have experience in automotive as well 18+ years too, plus my dads knowledge 50+ years.

i guess sanding for beginner is need in this option.

Buddy I'm a third gen Autobody tech, I own a shop (37 years running) with my Father (he's been tin the trade since the 50's) . Trust me when I say you have no clue as to what your saying if your advising someone to put aircraft stripper or acetone on styrene. :confused Seriously it will break done the chem composition and make it weak and brittle.

 

[MasterLe]

Absolutely do not use either of these, you'll have a melted helmet in no time. I know from 25+ years experience in Autobody, any kind of solvents will eventually react with the styrene. Mightnot be for awhile but it will break it down and it'll get very brittle. I'm going to third the sanding option, might take a bit longer but you have total control and it's not going to weaken or effect your piece in any way.

well everyone has opinions and different experience. as well as there many type of solvents and how people go about doing things. i do have a clue, not just with automotive but with many aspect of cosplaying/costuming. Just because some one has different experience, doesn't mean the other person doesn't how to go about with same results, or even make it better. :lol

so ill leave it at that. cheers no need to argue. :rolleyes

 

[ItalianNinja86]

thanks for all the suggestions so far guys i'll probably start with good old fashion sand paper and go from there with on of the many options you guys made available to me

thanks again and keep the suggestions coming

 

[tat2369]

just a warning to anyone trying Gastrol Super Clean i have used it on just about everything, it does work good.
But if you do use it, this stuff its nasty! Dont get any on your skin...Get a pair of heavy household cleaning gloves that go up to your elbows..i used regular latex gloves my first time and a little got on my finger tips and my skin dryed and cracked it was very painfull!

Like others have said its best to try it on a small piece first

 

[naatsirhc]

I suggest you stick with sandpaper. My armor is made from styrene and I used some solvent to remove small amounts of epoxy from assembly. You have to be really carefull of the amount you use, it can eat into the finish easily. I had problems with contamination when painting my blaster which resulted in cracking and weird spotting. I sanded it down with several grits of paper and repainted. I think you will end up with better adhesion if you sand and clean before repainting. I had my armor and bucket painted with automotive paint, I know that my bucket had some debri get into the paint before it dried and the painter sanded it out and repainted. Good luck with your redo!

 

[slave1pilot]

I'm no expert, and I'm certainly not a third generation anything , but I'd suggest brake fluid.
Keep in mind that excessive periods of time soking in the brake fluid may cause it to become brittle.

you can also try Floquil ELO Paint and Decal Remover
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/flo/flof542143.htm

always test whatever method you use on a small area first.

 

[ItalianNinja86]

Good news everyone (you just pictured the professors voice didn't you :lol)

over the last three days i've made great progress in fixing my mistakes

day one consisted one going over the entire helmet with 60 grit sanding sponge and a sheet of 220 grit sandpaper to smooth and even the ugly surface

Day two consisted of bondo-ing all the gouges and allowing it to dry them resanded the surface with the sanding sponge and 220 sandpaper to again even and smooth the bondo and surface gave it a wash in the shower to get the dust off and let it dry over night it turned out great

Day three (today) again sanded the surface with 220 grit sandpaper to make sure i have an even surface gave it another wash in the shower and its currently drying outside in the 70 degree sunshine :cool

if all goes well i should be able to be a coat or two of primer on the helmet before the day is over

and by the end of the week it should all be done

thanks again for all the suggestions everyone :thumbsup