RAIDERS: Ark of the Covenant BUILDERS GROUP

Thanks alot. I had that pic but in very poor quality so I'm very happy to have it looking good. What issue is that in?
 
Got an even better one for you.

realarkprop3yi.jpg
 
I's an old article about the restoration of Lucas' props for an exhibit in Asia back in 1993(I think).
 
Count me in too.

That Ark pictured on the first page of the thread by darthscifi was the one I commisioned, but after the amount of development time it took and the fact it would not have a "plated" look as I originally expected, I passed on it (I spent a lot of time trying to find out if the wooden box had any chance of being vacu-plated or metalized and in the end it wasn't possible... I just wish I had fully known that before the commission because it was disappointing to pass on it in the end and request a refund.)

The key question I have, because I don't think building the parts to the accurate measurements would be difficult, is IF they can be vacu-plated or metalized? That's the deal breaker for me, and if parts could be made with the reflective quality of a C-3PO or Cylon like what Kropsekal has put out, I'm all over this.

I have replicas of all of Indy's other props and this would be the crown jewel of my collection if I could get one that had the correct reflective surface.

JV
 
The best method (IMO) would be to apply gold leaf to the wooden parts of the ark. That's what was done on most items through out history to make them appear to be cast from gold. And in my travels in Europe I've seen many fine objects that were gold leafed centuries ago that still look like they're made from solid gold. And, of course, that would certainly add to the "historical" accuracy. :D

Richard
 
Originally posted by Darth Cross@Mar 11 2006, 08:31 PM
The best method (IMO) would be to apply gold leaf to the wooden parts of the ark. That's what was done on most items through out history to make them appear to be cast from gold. And in my travels in Europe I've seen many fine objects that were gold leafed centuries ago that still look like they're made from solid gold. And, of course, that would certainly add to the "historical" accuracy.  :D

Richard
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I would like to give it a shot with my process. go to my site and let me know if you all think it may work.

AMT

Let me know if I can help

Appliedmetal
 
I think it would work. You're pretty much doing the same thing (Adding a metal coat), just on a much finer level. We'd just have to make sure that the wood is smooth and sealed (to prevent the grain from showing). But you probably already know that (since you do this professionally :angel ).

Oh yeah, great job on the pieces in the gallery. :thumbsup

Richard
 
After looking at it close up you can easily see that the coat does not look perfect. I think if it were too smooth it might not look right. I'd love to see every imperfection worked out to perfection, if that makes sense.
At somepoint it may be nice to see several different applications of gold next to each other for debate.
 
I really think once two master wood frames are made (front and side) wtih the molding already on, it'd be smart to just moldt it and cast it. that way you hav uniformity and it would be MUCH easier to replicate over and over. If they're resin, that means they can be vacuum metalized.
 
Originally posted by agent5@Mar 12 2006, 01:40 AM
After looking at it close up you can easily see that the coat does not look perfect.  I think if it were too smooth it might not look right.  I'd love to see every imperfection worked out to perfection, if that makes sense.
At somepoint it may be nice to see several different applications of gold next to each other for debate.
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I agree that we need to look at the different textures available. I am sure that the original was not absolutely blemish free--(Although I could be wrong as it was directed by God's hand) :p
At any rate, I can do some samples of wood with the grain showing, some with the grain sealed, some partially sealed, etc--then we need to pin down the color. I can do various shades of gold by mixing the various metals that I have available. It would require creating just the right shade and keeping that "recipe" for future projects.

As soon as I am dont with the Knucks I will start putting together some various wood samples and posting them for evaluation.

Appliedmetal
 
IMPORTANT NOTICE:

I'm considering a temporary leave of absence from the RPF for personal reasons. Rest assured, I will not stop contributing to this project if my 3D modeling services and woodwork outsourcing are required. If anything, I'll have more time to devote to it as a result. If I do take a break, you can find me over at Prop Circle.

Thanks, and please no PMs, as my box is nearly full. I can always be reached by e-mail at proprunner@aol.com or on AOL/AIM as Prop Runner for a chat.

Sorry for the needless drama.

- Gabe
 
I am still interested in this but haven't recieved any email or PM...but just so you know...I don't know if it will help this project(maybe) I have a top of the line water cutter at my fingertips.
sooo use your imagination.
mike
 
Gabe - When the time comes we'll be calling on you. You won't be forgotten. Still waiting to compare measurements.


HowlingWind - pm sent.
 
I'd be interested in a group. I could start collecting pieces of it to eventuually put together when I have my own place :)
 
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