R2D2 Build

[TK9120]

Why does it have to be metal? You can build a good looking wood/ styrene/ fiberglass droid for well under $1000.

Exactly. An all plastic one with a metal dome looks great as well. Not as durable but it all depends what you want to do with it.

 

[KrangPrime]

You might want to try using the 3MVHB tape if you are painting the panel deatils first and then gluing them on. There is no glue mess to deal with and the stuff is super strong. I did my entire skins with one roll.

i dunno... call me old school, but I like the idea of glue better. although...for my center panel that just popped off today when the frames bent, it might be an option

well, first blunder of the day. The Panels all dried fine, but when I went to bend, the middle one snapped off...doh! not sure how I'm going to do that.

Oh well, four more panels getting glued on today. with any luck, back frames should be completed tomorrow.

All the front frame panels should also be done tomorrow ready for attaching Monday. any tips on how to improve productivity so I'm not doing this twice would be helpful ..

 

[KrangPrime]

the top one now fits.. with any luck, last three panels will be all glued in proper by 5.

Monday they will get a final paint, and hopefully they will go on properly without snapping off. I decided to put it on the trash can so the heavy weight of the grips will weight it down and keep the bent shape..

Monday will see the start of front frame completion...then once I get utility arms and the two missing coin returns, the body will be done and it'll be onto the legs

 

[KrangPrime]

Every other panel, with a bit of sanding and or dremeling for a bit of cleanup, looks pretty good. it won't look as good as a super builders droid, but for a first timer, it doesn't look horrible..

if the top one doesn't stick well, I'll give the 3VM tape a try....

 

[darthmac]

This is an awesome build you have the patience of a saint

 

[KrangPrime]

This is an awesome build you have the patience of a saint

Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles - CGI Animated Episode on Vimeo


you think that's something...check out the above.. I started that last may and still not done

 

[KrangPrime]

front slowly nearing completion

my solution for spring attachment.. but i might go with the more reliable looking a and a setup..

the back is finally all in place... put an extra bit of support on the back frames via jb weld to hold it in

 

[KrangPrime]

Today, the Skirt gets painted. Jag is trying to help me with figuring out on how to put it on ....I want to make sure I do it right.

As it stands now... the coin return needs to be glued in. The Deep pocket vents need to be glued in (unless i can chip off the paint on the bottom, i'm going to keep it that way)... The Center Vents need to be secured.
The skirt is properly on with center ankle plate installed..

Nine more front panels need to be welded on. I STILL need utility arms as the last part of the body.

I keep forgetting to install the side vents to see if they fit...but i guess i can do that tommorow. as they are now, the frames line up rather well.

Minus the two missing coin returns, the back is more or less done. a little sanding to remove a way excess weld and maybe an extra paint might be in order, but all in all the body is nearing completion.. I have a feeling the legs are going to be a real pain in the butt..not only in assembly, but also getting on the droid.

 

[KrangPrime]

last night, tried the devcon epoxy...seems to dry quicker..not sure how much more sturdy it is... but my last bit of jb weld should get here tomorrow..

it dried nice and good and bends OK...

and the right side vent thankfully fits pretty good with current frame screw holes..but it's a pain in the but to stretch things out to reach.

7 more panels to go.. but first, I've got to figure out where i'm going to permanently put the light on off switch so i can easily turn things on, and have the dome turn properly with out anything getting caught.

With the body nearing completion, and the legs the last part to build, it's also time to start thinking electronics and RC. has anyone done that yet here? How difficult was it, and how much did it set you back for basic RC operatoins?

 

[vistaVision]

Your 'droid is coming along nicely. It is clear that you have put a ton of work into him. I've built one, and I do know what a massive project this is. I'd like to help you avoid an error. That front coin return that we see in many of your pictures is incorrect. If you turned yours upside down, the inside of the pocket would be in the correct orientation, but the entire part would then be mirrored left to right.

Take a look at your coin return compared to the real deal (image lifted from one of the galleries at astromech.net):

 

[KrangPrime]

Parts List Update: all parts bought from Astromech.net. Credit given where due..


dome: $1242
DARREN MURRER dome- arrived $485
PAUL MURPHY lights - arrived $117
ASTROSPARES surrounds- arrived $125
BOBC holo Projectors arrived $336
ASTROSPARES Radar Eye shipped $145
WORR Eye $25
INDUSTRIAL AUTOMATION BUMPS $2
Radar Lens $7


body: $2512
JOHN SHERREL skins - $225
Coin Slot - $40
CORRELIAN EXPORTS leg struts - $125
RUSSREP Power couplers - $219
MCWHLR Octogon Ports $125
GVARDMAN side vents - $198
AL EISENMANN LDP - $90
RYAN HAUFMAN Legs $465
MANGUSI Booster covers - $80
COM8 frame - $335
JAG skirt - $300
BOBC center vents - $130
WORR poket vents - $30
RESINPARTS utility - arms $20

feet/legs: $1929
JAG alum feet - $256
WORR horseshoe inner outer moons $136
INDUSTRIAL AUTOMATION - SHOULDER HYDRAULICS CYLENDER HOLDERS WEDGES DOME BUMPS $56.00
WORR - BATTERY HARNESS SHOULDER BUTTONS $56.00
MATT MCORMICK battery boxes $90
JAG outer feet - paid - $495
JAG foot Drive - paid - $700
RYAN HAUFMAN Shoulder Hubs - $140

total $5683

 

[KrangPrime]

Your 'droid is coming along nicely. It is clear that you have put a ton of work into him. I've built one, and I do know what a massive project this is. I'd like to help you avoid an error. That front coin return that we see in many of your pictures is incorrect. If you turned yours upside down, the inside of the pocket would be in the correct orientation, but the entire part would then be mirrored left to right.

Take a look at your coin return compared to the real deal (image lifted from one of the galleries at astromech.net): QUOTE]


heya,

Yeah, I'm not sure what happened there. I had it made for free from a metal shop that we do business with here at work. despite giving them plans, I think they made a mistake and welded it the wrong way.

So, I now have a few choices. Either wait for a coin return run to be done. Or, put it in the back left slot where I believe it WOULD be correctly oriented and trim off a bit of the side so it fits, and hope it fits the curve as well as it does on the front.

I'm not sure if removing the weld is even possible, let alone a good idea to get it oriented the right way .

thanks

 

[KrangPrime]

this is why I build at work...need a tool? no problem..chances are we have it in the back warehouse.. Coin return problem fixed. Now that IS the one for the back left, correct? Can't find a good shot of R2 back to be sure..

Now i just need two more and utility arms

 

[vistaVision]

Coin return problem fixed. Now that IS the one for the back left, correct? Can't find a good shot of R2 back to be sure... Now i just need two more and utility arms

Yes sir, that's correct! You have made a quick and effective fix. Now, if you want, the others aren't too difficult to scratchbuild. My front coin return was made with the blank skin panel that was removed from that space, and a styrene insert. The back returns were both made entirely from styrene (must have lost the solid blank panels when they were removed).

 

[KrangPrime]

thankfully the left vent and right vent fit together great with current screw holes, but they are a pain in the butt to get on

This'll be done come monday. I did the left panel separate because it's kind of bent. figured it would be easier this way.

On monday, that last one will get glued in using the devcon stuff. that stuff dries in ten minutes compared to JB Weld's full day. The Frames will get the excess glue chipped away using the chipper.and one final paint.

Then the only thing that will need to be done is utility arms and coin returns

 

[TK9120]

Looking better everyday.

If you scratch build that coin return from styrene or another material you might be able to cover it with that aluminum tape. You could cover each piece before you glue it. It would look like aluminum. Not sure if it would match the real aluminum parts though. But a little weathering can fix that and hide any seams.

 

[KrangPrime]

Looking better everyday.

If you scratch build that coin return from styrene or another material you might be able to cover it with that aluminum tape.

i decided to use the actual skin material left over bits that i had laying around... we'll see how good it turns out, but it should work as a good temp.

yeah. I put this on from the front friday, had trouble taking it off today. this would only happen randomly to me what are the odds?

all but one left

finished coin return hole.. four more parts. itll work for a temp fix till another run happens

 

[shubba75]

outstanding..i love it

 

[KrangPrime]

This R2 won't win any construction awards...but for a first try, it's not so bad. hopefully the second dome will look ten times better...and maybe down the line, I'll take another shot at the skins.. The bottom two panels front left need to either be cleaned up or re-glued...not flat at all..

and as another user suggested in another thread, the dome power switch for the lights. blends in rather nicely .

 

[KrangPrime]

now it might be time to focus on the legs... i have a feeling these will be tougher than everything else