R2D2 Build

Discussion in 'Star Wars Costumes and Props' started by KrangPrime, Jan 18, 2012.

  1. KrangPrime

    KrangPrime Master Member

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    Howdy all,

    [UPDATE] VIDEO! See all the pictures in this thread on how i built the dome! http://vimeo.com/46402019

    youtube edition: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SKS4JfEZHQQ

    UPDATE: Video for Body construction
    http://vimeo.com/50907076
    youtube edition
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8rRwSePq1rg

    Update:

    leg building video is up
    First time building something this complex, so here we go!
    First step, purchase the 300 MM dome..

    [​IMG]


    Second step, number all the panels and carefully cut them out. I was a little worried, because I see that the bottom ring bends REALLY easily. hope that can be put back in place..

    [​IMG]

    Third step, Remove excess metal.... fourth step, prime and Paint.

    Fifth step, wait for metal radar, resin surrounds, and TeeCee light kits to arrive. Also wait for Resin HoloProjectors to go on sale.

    After that, I guess that's all I can do on the head. then it'll be time to decide what body I want to buy as the next step.... Budget, or Full..
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
  2. vtswordfish

    vtswordfish Sr Member

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    Ahhh yes, I remember my 300mm dome when I first got it, that is a thing of beauty. :) Good luck on your build!
     
  3. KrangPrime

    KrangPrime Master Member

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    I hope I didn't bend the metal too much when removing the first panel. I forgot about the hack saw trick and was trying to lightly remove it by twisting it from the tabs. After I found the proper tool, things went smoothly :).

    We scored a Com8B Budget frame today. Along with Aluminum Skins to fit the frame. hopefully along with finding a proper skirt that fits, those will be the most expensive parts of the body taken care of. Then it'll be onto scoring the most epxensive parts of the feet. Total spent so far, about $1300...
     
  4. KrangPrime

    KrangPrime Master Member

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    Here is the list of parts and current status, so far, it's all metal:
    300 MM dome: secured and arrived
    TeeCee light kit: Confirmed, no shipping notice or arrival yet
    Surrounds: astro spares...Payment confirmed and secured.
    Radar Eye: Awaiting for it to go on sale at astro spares :).

    Body:
    Com8B frame secured: Should be here in April
    Jag metal Skirt secured
    Metal skin: payment sent, no confirmation on anything yet...apparently this guy is a bit spotty on communication from another thread so hopefully that comes through...

    total spent so far = $1780 That STILL leaves three feet, and two outer legs as probably the most expensive parts left...And that should bring the final price up to around $2600. All the other things on the droid seem to be in the $50 range and a bit more affordable. Not sure how much the remote control stuff costs..anyone wanna weigh in on that and enlighten me? ;o)
     
  5. boshwan527

    boshwan527 Member

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    I have like 70 % of my parts, but haven't had a chance to "build" a thing :(

    Can't wait to get started on my dome and skins though! Good luck with your build!
     
  6. Darth Mawr

    Darth Mawr Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Yeah, I went the wooden frame route and am looking for legs. I was looking at wooden legs but Crash on Astromech.net is working on fiberglass legs so I may wait for those.

    My problem is when I have money to buy parts for my droid, if I don't buy them now something always comes up and I end up spending my money on that issue and then I'm broke when the run is made.:facepalm
     
  7. PHArchivist

    PHArchivist Master Member

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    Just can't beat the look of real aluminum. I have a pretty good dome, but its firberglass...
     
  8. blastmaster

    blastmaster Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Hey NeilT, Are you on my run for Aluminum LDP, over at Astromech.net? You should get on that run it is the most accurate Large Data Port to date. It is under "BC Approved Aluminum Parts Runs"
    "Aluminum LDP 2nd Run"
    Also I highly recommend a Senna Drive System for your motor drives, NPC motors, if you need a link to parts/build plans, Etc let me know. also will look up for you what motor controllers I use and give you those links,
    Happy building,
    AL
     
  9. R.P. McMurphy

    R.P. McMurphy Well-Known Member

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    Me too! I have a plan to get started in February. We'll see...

    Great to see someone else getting off to a good start.
     
  10. azheat01

    azheat01 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Ha, I'll be watching this build closely! Today I purchased a 99% complete R2 kit that the previous owner never got around to building. Good luck!
     
  11. KrangPrime

    KrangPrime Master Member

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    Right now, I'm the opposite.. I've got one part, and lots of time! ;o)..

    thanks :)
     
  12. KrangPrime

    KrangPrime Master Member

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    [​IMG]


    It took all day, b ut I f inally got all the tabs sanded off and most of the slag removed... but is the outer dome supposed to sit even on the inner dome, or is it supposed to look slanted like that? As you can see, I bent it a little trying to get that first panel off.. hope that is fixable :)
     
  13. vtswordfish

    vtswordfish Sr Member

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    If memory serves me right you cut the lower ring off and afix it to the lower edge of the inner dome? I might be wrong though, but center the outer dome and do the ring along the bottom and you should be in good shape. As for the dent I would take a small rubber mallet and gently tap it back into shape, it should be pretty pliable. You could always put a rag where you want to bend it back to keep from marring the surface up. Also I want to say the inner/outer dome should have a hole in the top center from the spin process don't they? That is an option for aligning the domes as well.
     
  14. KrangPrime

    KrangPrime Master Member

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    you know, I wasn't sure about that bottom ring, maybe that is what is messing things up.. if anyone can confirm that'll come off, I'll do that next.

    The next step is to mark out the circles and squares to cut out, once I get he dome centered. This is going to be the next nerve wracking part. I need to cut three holo projector holes. Two light holes, and Three surround holes
     
  15. KrangPrime

    KrangPrime Master Member

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    [​IMG]

    I cut off the bottom ring, and it fits better now. when I saw it painted blue in the ref photo's, figured it's best to take it off..

    round one of primer painting got done today. Round two tomorrow for all the parts.....I'm also going to start drilling the holes either this week, or next....not sure if I should wait for parts to start arriving before that happens, or it it really doesn't matter just so long as the dome is centered..
     
  16. KrangPrime

    KrangPrime Master Member

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    Today, we'll prime the rest of the parts. although I Was thinking that if you really wanted to be screen accurate, you can order the proper color to R2 (Wich I think is called Hypothetical Blue). However, with so many different droid variations out there, it could really be any color of blue and doesn't have to be close to be accurate :)....

    All I can really do now is paint the parts a color blue, and wait for the rest of the parts to arrive to start drilling the inner dome. Figured it might be easier to do that than make a mistake drilling the panels on the inner dome the wrong size now..unless it doesn't matter..
     
  17. vtswordfish

    vtswordfish Sr Member

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    Before you paint the outer dome panels, cut the inner dome panels out that you want to use. Then use those scraps for paint testing, trust me, it'll save you a headache down the road! The blue i used is a blue that one of the members (name fails to come to me) made up, Krider blue.

    Here is a wiki link from the site, there is also a paint wiki about Don Bies 'hypo' blue you mentioned, I know that the House of Kolor paint is kind of an expensive route, I was happy with the spraypaint turn out after some testing, you should try it!

    http://astromech.net/droidwiki/index.php?title=Krider_Blue
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2012
  18. KrangPrime

    KrangPrime Master Member

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    thanks for that, I got the needed paints off of Amazon, should be here tomorrow...We'll give it a try
     
  19. phez

    phez Sr Member

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    Make sure to check for gaps between the inner and outer domes. They should fit together fairly tight. I have done two and both needed to have the inside dome sanded/grind quite a bit for the outer dome to fit snug (not a problem with the dome just part of the cleanup sometimes). Good idea to check that before cutting out your inner panels, if you have to sand the inner dome after they are cut out you could have an aliment problem.

    Always cool to see a good droid build :)
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2012
  20. KrangPrime

    KrangPrime Master Member

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    don't judge the build yet, I've been known to have major disasters befall me before all is said and done ;o)..

    [​IMG]

    a quick mock of of round one, primer paint for all parts. The proper paints will get here tommorow, so we'll try and get most, if not all done the right way then. Now, I've noticed mine doesn't fit tightly as you stated, and it's STILL a bit crooked, so obvously I've got more sanding to do. Despite the fact that the top of the dome looks like it's sitting flat, it clearly isn't. The dome is supposed to slide all the way to the bottom of the inner dome, so it matches the blue part, correct? Or is the blue part supposed to rise up to meet the outer dome?
     
  21. KrangPrime

    KrangPrime Master Member

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    yay! Lighting kit and surrounds should ship sometime next week!
    I just got my first look at what it's going to be like assembling the TeeCe kit..holy crap I'm scared :). Not difficult looking, but oh so tiny pieces!
     
  22. xaoslord

    xaoslord Well-Known Member

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    An R2 is on the list of builds I hope to eventually do. Good luck and keep the updates coming!
     
  23. phez

    phez Sr Member

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    Well the metal band that you cut off of the bottom of the outer dome (the blue part) slides over the inner dome and varies a bit depending on which R2 photo you are looking at (it can never easy :lol). I just centered mine in the space.

    Are you going to have opening panels or have them gluded in?
     
  24. deathscythe

    deathscythe Well-Known Member

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    I am hoping to do a droid build at some point, and I am LOVING this thread!

    I just joined up over at the astromech site, so when I ask this understand that I'm a droid noob, but what's the purpose of having an inner and outer dome, especially if they fit so tightly together?

    -Alex
     
  25. KrangPrime

    KrangPrime Master Member

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    someone answered that for me...I'll see if I can refind it....

    [​IMG]
    I decided to test out the Victor's Painting Moves from the droid wiki. Already applied about 6 coats of primer. One coat every 30 minutes over the course of the day. I'll let it sit for a day, and maybe tommorow or Monday will apply the blue and purple and cermaic spray to finish it off, and we'll see how long it goes...

    I've decided to wait on cutting out the panels on the inner dome. I'm gluing the top panels to the dome, so no cutting there. But I will need to cut holes for the HP's and lights. Figured it's best to wait till the parts arrive to see if they fit the pre cut holes.

    Someone asked this as well, the answer for the top panels is that I'm going to wind up gluing them on. None of them will open. I see no need for radar periscope or other gadgets. this thing is going to be expensive as it is
     
  26. KrangPrime

    KrangPrime Master Member

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    Can't seem to refind that post... But basically the inner dome is supposed to make attaching panels and extra gadgets easier... I've found you don't really need an inner dome, and I think it's just a preferance.
     
  27. KrangPrime

    KrangPrime Master Member

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    [​IMG]

    now R2 Blue.. just hope it dries this good.. only thing left is clear enamel spray and if it turns out good on these panels, I will do the rest..
     
  28. KrangPrime

    KrangPrime Master Member

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    [​IMG]

    except for one panel, that I think got blotches on it when I transported it from the paint bench...not all that bad for a first effort, I think. Now on to the rest of the panels..
     
  29. KrangPrime

    KrangPrime Master Member

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    [​IMG]

    Since I am not sure if I'm supposed to match the hole exactly, or leave a little bit of space for the parts to be glued in...but I'm doing a test hole drill on one area now that I've gotten the dome even.
     
  30. KrangPrime

    KrangPrime Master Member

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    I didn't wait long enough for them to dry, so some are gonig to require a quick sand and extra coat of blue when ready for final assembly... but a quick mock up. this is pretty much all I can do until actual parts arrive.
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2012
  31. KrangPrime

    KrangPrime Master Member

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    [​IMG]

    2 holes down.. this is the most nerve wracking part...I'm trying to leave a little leeway just in case the parts need it. I'm going to try and cut one last hole for the day, one of the holo projectors...
     
  32. KrangPrime

    KrangPrime Master Member

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    The damaged paint panels where repainted and look passable. I'll let them sit there the whole weekend and hope that solves that problem. I got one small hole drilled out near the holo projector. so that just leaves two more holo projector holes, two PSI's and two surrounds to drill out when the parts arrive. Looks like this is all I can do until sometime mid February.

    the body and skirt should come in April, as well as, hopefully, the metal skins. That just leaves the following to buy.

    legs, feet, holo projectors, and all the various minor attachments...at least MOST of the most expensive parts are done and spoken for..
     
  33. KrangPrime

    KrangPrime Master Member

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    [​IMG]
    all parts now a bit more properly painted R2 blue. they might need a third round of touching up when the time comes for final assembly, but now they'll do.
     
  34. KrangPrime

    KrangPrime Master Member

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    [​IMG]

    considerign how long people had been waiting for theirs, utterly shocked my metal skins arrived in a little under 2/3 weeks! Thanks John! Too bad my Com8B frame won't arrive till April!
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2012
  35. KrangPrime

    KrangPrime Master Member

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    thanks for that, I didn't think there where that many blue panels on him...
    So, like the dome, there are inner and outer skins? These might be more complicated than I thought :)


    Now that all the tabs are dry for the face, I put them back on to see how well they all fit...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Now that bad...
    edit - anyone know how I can shrink picture size without doing it in photo shop? I used to know HTML talk a long time ago, but have since forgotten all of it :)
     
  36. KrangPrime

    KrangPrime Master Member

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    OK, I can get all the remaining body parts from astro spares. Power Couplers Coin Slots, Octogan port, and Large Data port, assuming those will fit the 8B frame (or would it have to fit the skins?).

    That just leaves the two vents in the front, the 5(?) lined thing on his front/back near the legs, and that little indented square to the right of it (looking on the front). Not sure on the names, will have to look them up. But that should cover all the parts from the body, and hopefully not set me back more than $700 ;o)

    That still leaves holo projectors to finish off the head, and looking for metal legs and feet to finish all the major parts..all of which will probably take a few months to get here, or to wait to go on sale :). hopefully they'll all arrive around the same time ;o)
     
  37. KrangPrime

    KrangPrime Master Member

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    scored three more metal parts. The LDP, the Coin slots, and the Octogan Ports. Now I just need two Power Couplers, Deep Pocket Vents, and front Vents, and all the viewable cosmetics should be complete.

    I'm trying to flash learn all these part names, so I don't miss out on any runs that could take at least a few years to show up again... I already missed out on a set of pocket vents :).
     
  38. KrangPrime

    KrangPrime Master Member

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    yay! My TeeCee lights should be getting here tommorow! Looks like I'm coming back from the shore after all on Friday :)....

    Will be practicing on the test kit he was kind enough to supply first... if I can get a light lit on there no problem, I'll go onto the real thing.. When my Surrounds arrive, I should be able to drill the holes for them on the Inner dome, and finally glue the outer dome into place if everything looks good. then it'll be a final paint on the dome panels, and they can get secured where the drilling is done, at least... Now I just need to be on the look out for the HoloProjector, Deep Pocket Vents, Front vents, and Power Couplers, and the dome and body parts should be completed...
     
  39. KrangPrime

    KrangPrime Master Member

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    The lights have arrived... coming back from the shore today or tomorrow to take a looksee :). I am scared crapless at making one little mistake and frying the whole thing, like I did the sound chip for my Ghostbusters pack :). That one actually smoked!

    Thankfully, I think he included an older model with one light so I can test it first :).
     
  40. KrangPrime

    KrangPrime Master Member

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    The Coin slots get here today... I also finally secured a set of Holo Projectors, all three metal. If we get confirmed, those will arrive here in March. Leg Struts where also secured today.

    So, all that leaves for the face is the Radar Eye to go on sale. For the Body, Deep Pocket Vents, Front Vents, Power Couplers, and that indented square piece.. We also need to wiat for the Jag Legs and feet to go back on sale.. and that SHOULD be most of the droid parts spoken for
     
  41. Darth Mawr

    Darth Mawr Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Man you're flying though this build, at least for an R2 build. I've gotten my wooden frame and legs and I'm waiting on one of Crash's fiberglass skirts and I hope to order a set of Chani's Budget Skins next week. I haven't even given the dome much thought other than to drool over others such as yours. Keep up the great work.
     
  42. KrangPrime

    KrangPrime Master Member

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    I'm finding most of the old timers at astromech place don't seem to take well to people asking alot of basic questions when one can 'so easily search'. As I've been browsing blogs, each person builds there's with different materials, takes different steps, does things in different order, and most already know what they are doing. It gets frustrating at times. So it's easier to ask questions as I think of them...

    Lots of information overload to process...and I tend to work better figuring things out as I go along. You don't ask, you don't learn... What I really think would be a nice addition is one giant sticky thread for a 'master build' that goes in part order. One for metal, one for wood, one for styrene. All one has to do is go to that thread, search the part they are up to and follow the instructions, hence no pesky question overload from new people like me who are like a kid in a candy shop and can't help themselves :)..
    But, maybe that is just me and OCD talking :).

    thanks for the compliment btw..and the adventure continues!
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2012
  43. Engelnicht

    Engelnicht Well-Known Member

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    Neil, Looking great so far! I'll be subscribing to this to see your progress!
     
  44. KrangPrime

    KrangPrime Master Member

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    [​IMG]
    I expect to be fully laughed off the board for this :)...

    I tried for half an hour to get this thing to go on one part only. for whatever reason, the solder did not want to stay in place, it kept on sticking to the soldering iron. The only way I could get it to stay on the board was to put it on in blobs. It may not look nice and neat, but will it still work properly that way?

    Back to square one! :) [​IMG]
    -edit again, if anyone knows how to shrink pics, I'll go back and scale 'em down :)
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2012
  45. wannab

    wannab Sr Member

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    Are you using flux when you solder?


    Doug
     
  46. phez

    phez Sr Member

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    Um the globs with all of the pins soldered together may not work as well as you would like :lol. Use small gauge solder and flux and all should work out well. It almost looks like you are using really thick solder and it is not getting hot enough to melt to the contacts. The second photo looks perfect, how did you do that one.
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2012
  47. KrangPrime

    KrangPrime Master Member

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    No Flux....I've seen it might not be a bad idea to have it handy....maybe I should stop by radio shack or sears....

    For the second one, I just lightly dragged the solder over all the pins, and then put the tip in between them so they didn't connect. For some reason, that seems far easier than trying to do it pin by pin. This solder seems to like to stick to the soldering iron for some reason rather than the board....
     
  48. phez

    phez Sr Member

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    The tip on the soldering iron could have gone bad. I have had that happen a few times. I remeber soldering all of those LED's on my JEDI boards, what a drag :lol
     
  49. wannab

    wannab Sr Member

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  50. familyman

    familyman Sr Member

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    love the build man, great job.
     

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