Haldir - Galadhrim Armor from Helm's Deep - Lord of the Rings

[liloandsith]

Well, short of lining your sheath with silk...I don't know which type of fabric/felt you could use to minimize the wear & tear

i’m using flannel. it’s thin but still fuzzy and if i need to add a second layer it’ll still be much thinner than felt.

 

[liloandsith]

This looks amazing so far, I really love the armor coloring! Is the wax you used similar to rub n' buff? I'm using that on my own project and still debating whether I should coat it or not.

it’s similar to rub-n-buff but it’s a different texture. i opted for a brand i could only get from Europe but it’s more waxy than rub-n-buff. its Viva Inka-Gold

i sealed mine with Rustoleam spray lacquer which i’ve heard can be tricky over wax but i've not had any issues. i seal rub-n-buff with that too bc i find the metallic powder (? not sure what’s in the wax but i assume it’s a mica powder) will rub off on fingers and fabric over time.

 

[liloandsith]

sheath lining take 2! i also just fixed the snapped piece so im using the same print as before.

using flannel this time which is MUCH thinner but still has a fuzzy texture. i may use 2 layers but even with 2 flannel layers it is still way thinner the felt was. REALLY hoping this works

new sword print is still on deck but the printer has decided spaghetti is the name of the game and my husband didn’t have time to fool with it this morning before work.

it literally printed nothing yesterday and started doing the same thing this morning when he attempted to retry.

 

[RamonvanVeghel]

it’s similar to rub-n-buff but it’s a different texture. i opted for a brand i could only get from Europe but it’s more waxy than rub-n-buff. its Viva Inka-Gold

View attachment 1912259

i sealed mine with Rustoleam spray lacquer which i’ve heard can be tricky over wax but i've not had any issues. i seal rub-n-buff with that too bc i find the metallic powder (? not sure what’s in the wax but i assume it’s a mica powder) will rub off on fingers and fabric over time.

Thanks for the reply! If you're interested, a store in Belgium actually sells rub n buff, which is where I got it. Don't know if I'm allowed to link to it directly in a post though?

I actually got some Valour clear coat which is marketed as being developed for cosplay. No idea if it'll work well with the wax but I will do a test first if I decide to do it!

 

[liloandsith]

Thanks for the reply! If you're interested, a store in Belgium actually sells rub n buff, which is where I got it. Don't know if I'm allowed to link to it directly in a post though?

I actually got some Valour clear coat which is marketed as being developed for cosplay. No idea if it'll work well with the wax but I will do a test first if I decide to do it!

we have rub-n-buff here. i’m in the states i use it for swords mostly. i just wanted something was that easier to mix with other colors to get that brassy multi tone color of the armor for this costume. i can’t do that with rub-n-buff. this wax is water activated so it doesn’t “dry out”. you just add a tiny bit of water. and then it’s SUPER easy to blend colors together.

 

[RamonvanVeghel]

we have rub-n-buff here. i’m in the states i use it for swords mostly. i just wanted something was that easier to mix with other colors to get that brassy multi tone color of the armor for this costume. i can’t do that with rub-n-buff. this wax is water activated so it doesn’t “dry out”. you just add a tiny bit of water. and then it’s SUPER easy to blend colors together.

Ah okay I misunderstood then. Yeah I noticed rub n buff is hard to mix and looks like this Viva wax is doing a great job at it! Good stuff.

 

[liloandsith]

i was able to salvage the first sheath flannel worked out great and i’ll be working to get it put together and painted this week

 

[joberg]

Excellent news...looking good for sure

 

[liloandsith]

Sooooooooo, I can't use the sheath. I'll have to have the husband print a new one. This sword and sheath are being so difficult!

Not asking for advice with it because it's just stupid stuff like the printer spaghetti-ing, or the program randomly changing the scale of certain prints, or me effing up and breaking the print while drilling the holes for the supports, or getting the sizing of both sword and sheath correct so they work together once all the paint, etc are on, or figuring out the best order or way to go about certain things (and taking them apart and breaking things when the order I chose doesn't work). It's just been one thing after another... This build had been going too smoothly, I knew something would happen to make it difficult.

But in better news, I painted the sheath for the new sword and I'm so happy with it. It's got it's quirks but so does the screen used one.

I used a gold metallic sharpie and freehanded it (hence the quirks). I think it came out *good enough*. I'm calling it a win since nothing else with the sword and sheath are going well currently and my deadline is getting closer.

 

[RamonvanVeghel]

I think it's barely noticable that you freehanded it, great work! I guess the sword being curved only makes it harder to get it to fit into the sheath?

 

[liloandsith]

I think it's barely noticable that you freehanded it, great work! I guess the sword being curved only makes it harder to get it to fit into the sheath?

Thank you!!!

OMG YES!!!! That's one of the issues I'm having. The sheath has to be wide enough so that the curved bits can still get in but not so wide that it looks ridiculous. And then finding that perfect middle ground for being able to fit the sword into the sheath easily but not so much so that it wobbles around inside the sheath. And also, if we make the print too thick, the designs on the sheath also get thicker and then they look absolutely ridiculous. And all of that hinges on how much paint I add to the sword and how thick the glue is for the fabric inside the sheath. and creating a good seam inside the sheath so the sword doesn't catch on the seams.

I'll be happy to never have to print another working sword/sheath combo ever again. hahahahaha (or at least until I forget how much trouble this one has been)

 

[RamonvanVeghel]

That does sound like a hassle!
I was actually thinking of eventually making my own sword and sheath combo for my Witch King without a 3D printer, but sounds like it's alot of tedious work lol. Atleast that sword is straight though

 

[liloandsith]

I made a sheath for my Morgul blade with cardboard (super easy) and I just use a loop on my belt for my ringwraith sword. So I've never had to deal with printing a matching sheath. 0/10 so far. hahaha

 

[liloandsith]

I just realized that I haven't posted the try on I did a few weeks ago.

I've attached the bracer straps since this try on so disregard the hair ties holding them up. haha

 

[liloandsith]

I've decided that I want to weather the armor. I hesitated but I found some photos of Hugo bts during the prologue battle and the weathering is *chef's kiss. I am a huge fan of weathering things. I just wasn't sure if I wanted pre battle Haldir or during battle Haldir.

I'm using he same method I used for mud on my ringwraith. Acrylic paint mixed with some flour. This ensures that the substance sits on top of the fabric instead of soaking in and looking like water. I also just wanted a slightly chucky look for the Uruk blood. Very fancy application method video is below.

I'm pretty happy with it. I only just started on the cloak. It will get several more layers of dirt and grime but I find it's better to slowly add to it and keep your eyes and mind clear so you don't over do it. Once it's there, you can't undo it. I'm not going to go too ham on it. It's pristine before the battle so there won't be too much going on. I'm not trying to recreate years and years of wear and tear. Just a few hours of battle.

 

[joberg]

It's all looking great...but I think I would put weights in the end (points front of the "skirt) to make it less curly and light.

 

[liloandsith]

Weights won't make it less curly. It would actually make it worse since it's a curved circular hem. Also this is the cloak, not a skirt and its a circular pattern so there are no points. And the way it hangs without being pulled flat for a photo it naturally waves and gathers in the back which is why it is doing that.

How would putting weights in a hem make something 'light'? Just curious because there's very specific reasons for putting weights in a hem and neither include making a hem less curly or light. Weights would over time make something more curly as it would cause the fabric to stretch more in those areas. It would give a lightweight fabric more body if the weights were places correctly but it wouldn't make it 'light'.

 

[liloandsith]

got some more weathering done on the rest of the costume pieces tonight!

i’m gonna hopefully do another try on this weekend (tomorrow?) to make sure i don’t need to add any more uruk blood or mud.

 

[RamonvanVeghel]

Looks realistic! I like that it's still pretty subtle.
Are you using all acrylic paints again? I think I read in your Ringwraith thread that you used acrylic paints. Would you say that is the easiest way to apply realistic weathering and dirt to a costume? I've also read about using products like fullers earth to simulate dirt on fabric, though I don't have any experience with it.

 

[joberg]

Weights won't make it less curly. It would actually make it worse since it's a curved circular hem. Also this is the cloak, not a skirt and its a circular pattern so there are no points. And the way it hangs without being pulled flat for a photo it naturally waves and gathers in the back which is why it is doing that.

How would putting weights in a hem make something 'light'? Just curious because there's very specific reasons for putting weights in a hem and neither include making a hem less curly or light. Weights would over time make something more curly as it would cause the fabric to stretch more in those areas. It would give a lightweight fabric more body if the weights were places correctly but it wouldn't make it 'light'.

I tend to make my own weight (I know, more work) I usually take the same design/form that you'll find in men's collar in a regular shirt (to keep the points of the collar from curling). I simply took 3 collar's stays (glued together to make it thicker), made a plaster mold of it. After the mold was done, I poured lead into the stay and voilà! Works well and my ends are always pointy and don't curl