AlphaTech686
Active Member
Lee, very nice piece. I think the thicker upper part looked better than the original. Keep up th inspiring work.
P2 Re-breather : Pg7 Upgraded 2013 V2.
- Thread starter Usurper
- Start date
maverick118
New Member
Lee the main filler I was talking about the tri hydrate, is to extend the resin...lots of filler = thicker resin.... The cold cast stuff will be ally powder or brass in the case of your re-breather.
Moulding as a block mould is a possibility...But doing it as a single sitting means you run the risk of increased air bubbles unless you de gas the silicone or pour from a height, as this thins the stream of silicone and means bubbles form less readily.....From personal experience I'd do a brush up, using a coat of tinsil70-25 to pick the details up, but adding about 11% cat than the usual 10 to get it to kick a bit quicker and avoid the time consuming task of continually brushing the dribbles back on to the piece...After that do a layer with the normal amount of cat once it's cured, but add a good thixo to it. you want a consistency like melted ice cream and brush this on, it'll still run but will be more manageable. The last layer needs to be thick...like a peanut butter, so you can trowel it on once the previous one has cured to a degree. You can also add muslin or cheese cloth at this point, this will add a good mechanical bond between layers and also increases tear strength too. add you keys and then add a layer of thickened resin for a jacket. Sounds a lot of work and it can be but it will save you cash and extend the life of the mould too.
Moulding as a block mould is a possibility...But doing it as a single sitting means you run the risk of increased air bubbles unless you de gas the silicone or pour from a height, as this thins the stream of silicone and means bubbles form less readily.....From personal experience I'd do a brush up, using a coat of tinsil70-25 to pick the details up, but adding about 11% cat than the usual 10 to get it to kick a bit quicker and avoid the time consuming task of continually brushing the dribbles back on to the piece...After that do a layer with the normal amount of cat once it's cured, but add a good thixo to it. you want a consistency like melted ice cream and brush this on, it'll still run but will be more manageable. The last layer needs to be thick...like a peanut butter, so you can trowel it on once the previous one has cured to a degree. You can also add muslin or cheese cloth at this point, this will add a good mechanical bond between layers and also increases tear strength too. add you keys and then add a layer of thickened resin for a jacket. Sounds a lot of work and it can be but it will save you cash and extend the life of the mould too.
I have plenty of filler here Mav im aware of what it is
I have my own degassing machine ( its called a washing machine on fast spin, 30 dgrss is fine but i prefer 40
), and have never sufferd from bubbles in my other silicone moulds.
Ill have a think about it over the next week, but thanks anyway.
I have my own degassing machine ( its called a washing machine on fast spin, 30 dgrss is fine but i prefer 40
), and have never sufferd from bubbles in my other silicone moulds.Ill have a think about it over the next week, but thanks anyway.
maverick118
New Member
No prob mate, you'll find air can find its way into the most annoying of places believe me i know
biohunter76
Sr Member
Very nice job on this Lee.
twisted one
New Member
Keep us up to date on when this will be available.
maverick118
New Member
Dude, when those tubes call you got to go a calling.
Old surf bum here, nice to know life's priorities don't change, board, babe then everything else.....
Old surf bum here, nice to know life's priorities don't change, board, babe then everything else.....
hehehe. Well theres not even big enough waves for a pigmy ant to surf at present grrrrrr.
well ive been damn busy all sodding day, the only thing ive accomplished is to order the bloody silicone and resin grrrrrr.
im not saying when this will be done now, as everytime i do, something gets in the way.
well ive been damn busy all sodding day, the only thing ive accomplished is to order the bloody silicone and resin grrrrrr.
im not saying when this will be done now, as everytime i do, something gets in the way.
frosty
Sr Member
Well looks like you've allready ordered the stuff, but on projects like this i use fast cast resins, or plain old casting resin and fibreglass,i've not had much trouble with filler powders including copper, used it on my lifecasts and it worked the same as the others.
Anyhow good luck with it
Anyhow good luck with it
Question
Apart from the hot toys thing, i cannot clearly see via screen shot or Mr Jones pictures, WHERE the supply hose will/would attatch. I know its not really important.
BUT
does anyone have any other pictures that show this? id like to have it in roughly the right place.
Apart from the hot toys thing, i cannot clearly see via screen shot or Mr Jones pictures, WHERE the supply hose will/would attatch. I know its not really important.
BUT
does anyone have any other pictures that show this? id like to have it in roughly the right place.
MoviesColin
Well-Known Member
Please excuse the crude mspaint once-over but here is where I think that supply tube goes. If you look on the original reference pic there is a small hollow on the bottom there.
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