Original Tron Identity Disc - Need Help with slight problem

Re: Ok Original Tron identity Disc?

Well I think I will stick with LED's just to keep each one cheap. I guess I can just line each cavity with foil and hope that works. I would guess I would have about 50 led's in each disc.

If people don't mind the tron legacy deluxe discs, then I doubt they'll mind them in this one.
 
Re: Ok Original Tron identity Disc?

TxBabyHuey said:
Well I think I will stick with LED's just to keep each one cheap. I guess I can just line each cavity with foil and hope that works. I would guess I would have about 50 led's in each disc.
Click to expand...
Just make sure it's not conductive foil, as that could short out the electronics. Using frosted plastic as a diffuser on top of each channel might also help.
 
Re: Ok Original Tron identity Disc?

Instead of using molds of rings for the inner rings, you could just fill up the holes with translucent hot glue after you put the LED's inside? Also, 5mm LED RL5-RGB Specifications these LED's change from red to green to blue, so you could have it in 3 different colors, and you wouldn't need as many LED's. Idk just a thought, good luck with your project!
 
Re: Ok Original Tron identity Disc?

OK, thinking about this more, I think the bicolor LEDs will make it difficult to do the series/parallel wiring arrangement that's necessary, because it seems that all of the bicolor LEDs have a common cathode or anode. So, using discrete red and blue LEDs, assuming that they take 3.2 V and the project will run from 9 V as suggested by some material provided by the OP, I come up with the following circuit.

ckt2.jpg


Basically, each of the "blocks" A1, A2, ..., An has two blue and two red LEDs in series with a current limiting resistor. Assuming about 15 mA for each LED, the resistor would need to be 175 ohms, rated for at least 1/8 W. If different LEDs are substituted that have different voltage or current requirements, adjustments to the circuit would need to be made.
 
Re: Ok Original Tron identity Disc?

tim said:
OK, thinking about this more, I think the bicolor LEDs will make it difficult to do the series/parallel wiring arrangement that's necessary, because it seems that all of the bicolor LEDs have a common cathode or anode. So, using discrete red and blue LEDs, assuming that they take 3.2 V and the project will run from 9 V as suggested by some material provided by the OP, I come up with the following circuit.

ckt2.jpg


Basically, each of the "blocks" A1, A2, ..., An has two blue and two red LEDs in series with a current limiting resistor. Assuming about 15 mA for each LED, the resistor would need to be 175 ohms, rated for at least 1/8 W. If different LEDs are substituted that have different voltage or current requirements, adjustments to the circuit would need to be made.
Click to expand...

Ok now you are really going to hate me, Thank you for doing this schematic, but I guess I still have to learn how to wire this.

I am not really understanding about what this means.

I emailed a couple of friends to see if they might be able to interpret this so we will see what they say.

But from my understanding I will have to go back to the original plans of doing red AND blue LED's and won't be able to use the red/blue bicolor LEDs?

I understand the schematic of how the battery wires up to the switch, how the one side wires up to the blue and the other to red.

What I don't necessarily understand is how to wire all the reds with one wire and all the blues with one wire.

If the 9 volt doesn't work, what would be the best combination?

3-4 AAA's

2-3 AA's

Just go ahead and tell me, if YOU the professional were doing this, what would you use?

I will be cnc'ing this out of wood, and cleaning up with sanding and bondo for the mold process, so I can design the compartment as big as I need to.

I think I have decided that the disc will be about 12" big and about 1.5"-2" thick not including the battery compartment, which I don't mind if it sticks out a bit, but I think I can make it work within the allotted thickness.
 
Re: Ok Original Tron identity Disc?

TxBabyHuey said:
But from my understanding I will have to go back to the original plans of doing red AND blue LED's and won't be able to use the red/blue bicolor LEDs?
Click to expand...
Because the bicolor LEDs have a common anode (or cathode), they can't really be wired in series and still maintain independent red/blue control. You'd have to wire all the LEDs in parallel, each with its own resistor.

That said, I think it would be better to use AA batteries as all the LEDs would drain a 9V battery pretty quickly. In fact, if you just used three AA batteries in series to provide 4.5 V you could go back to using the bicolor LEDs, but they'd have to be hooked entirely in parallel, each with its own resistor. I'll draw a diagram in a bit.

EDIT: OK, here's the diagram. So this uses the bicolor LEDs the OP found on eBay (3.3 V, assumed 15 mA current) and hooks them all in parallel to work off of three AA batteries. This circuit should also be a bit simpler.

ckt-parallel.jpg
 
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Re: Ok Original Tron identity Disc?

Thanks you guys, I am meeting with someone this week to talk about the CNC machining, and I have emailed a few friends who might know something about wiring and understanding the diagrams.

Tim, THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! Thanks for helping I really do appreciate you being patient with me.

But since these will be somewhat expensive, I don't plan on upcharging, but I am thinking I will only do maybe 10-15 of these at most. At least to start just to see if everyone likes them or appreciates them.

This project could fail who knows, I should know this week what I am looking at.

Thanks again Tim!
 
Re: Ok Original Tron identity Disc?

I just hopefully found a guy that can help me locally wire these, he said he could help me CNC these maybe even with a special compartment for the battery and maybe even a special spot for each light in the cavities.

But now I just need to figure out EXACTLY what lights to do, he said there are several options which is evident so I just want to make sure I get the right ones the first time.
 
Re: Ok Original Tron identity Disc?

tim said:
Somewhere I've got a bunch of similar inverters that I got for a project but never used. The tough part would be cramming both red and blue into the channels on the disc.
Click to expand...

and not to mention costs, yikes!!!

I guess I would have to run half and half on each routed channel which means I would have to buy A LOT of EL sheets.

I am trying to keep the cost on these at $150 a piece.

I found a place to get the aluminum for the master really cheap about 10 minutes from me.

Mouser will be REALLY expensive for the led lights but I found a bulk buy on ebay that will hopefully work, I am talking with the guy tonight who might help me wire this bad boy so hopefully we work out a cheap solution for all.
 
Re: Ok Original Tron identity Disc?

Cool, I think I found a guy here in my hometown and an acquaintance who can wire these, we are talking this week about options for the wiring, he can even CNC them for me and I think we are going to try to create a battery compartment for them and he said he will even try to create a special slot for each light in each cavity. I'm fairly sure at this point that I am CNC'ing these out of Aluminum.

I really think I will only do a Limited Run of 20, I already have about 12 people who say they are willing to pay what I am guessing will be the costs, well, 13 including Meta440 :), so I am playing this one really close to the chest on the Tron forums just so I don't get a C&D from Disney.

The way I am looking at the cost to you guys and the cost to me, I am not making a cent as it is which I don't care because the people helping make these are highly skilled and I would rather have quality over profits.

I really want to start collaborating on projects so hopefully this can help build my rep as selfish as that sounds.

Once again I can't post in the junkyard and I am not posting in here but if you might be interested just continue to post and I will let you know details, if you don't like the details I understand.

I might even sell a couple on ebay but only after I have all but two or three slots filled that way if I do get a C&D I can still get everyones to them based on pm's.

I will know the official costs by the end of this week.

When we did the bits we sold them for $150 and that was with the stands, bits, and shipping (not including foreign countries which I have ZERO problem shipping to USPS is cheap)

We took a minimum of $50 deposits on them because on the unfiction forum most of the guys aren't that rich, just working class people, but unfortunately on these I need paid in fulls when I get the figures worked out.
 
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