ORCA scratch build

I have to chime in as well, flimzy — this is a fantastic build and I appreciate your sharing it! I have enjoyed sipping my morning coffee and catching up on all your amazing progress! Outstanding work! Your comment about "have some fun like a kid again" really resonated with me and sums up my attraction to projects like this: they take me back to a time when I marveled at models and props, I often spent hours drawing them (or trying to, I think I drew the Star Wars snowspeeder 100s of times). I couldn't have articulated the 'why' back then, but I can now: I just love the craftsmanship and design inherent in the process, and your project has that in spades. There is also an emotional element to some props. For example, Quint's monologue about the Indianapolis is one of my favorite scenes in movie history and your model evokes memories of that moment. So, bravo!
 
Absolutely flimzy: it's to have fun and be in a young state of mind that counts! I'm way off that bar you've attained and I'm still learning, experimenting and looking at builds, here or other places to absorb them like a sponge and try them myself. I know that the proper tools are a must also (and how to used them at their full potential) You've shown us the "How", the "Why" and the final results are always a sight to see and admire:cool::cool:(y)(y):notworthy::notworthy::notworthy::notworthy: Would've been great to see what kind of project Doug Trumbull and you could've mixed for us to see...such a loss.
Keep on building and don't get rid of you Spinner; it's a fantastic model(y)(y)(y)(y)
 
When will the kit be available?????????? :p :unsure:
I am thinking of maybe releasing a 3D file and drawings as I am correcting all the little things I've spotted that are wrong. I know Geek1138 has an etsy set up for his stuff but at the moment is way too early to think about that. I'd be scared to say it's exactly screen-accurate. there are so many changes between the 2 boats and the boat themselves flip-flop dressing around. you can even see the paint jo change as they are shooting. how the pattener of the salt attacks the brass and copper. all the bright blue chipping? It's a mastery of the art of set dressing. No one ever asks where the chair goes, or the huge fishing poles on the side. the box on the poop deck. and most important to me right now what's in the orange and gray milk crate covered in the waxed sheet. :cool:
 
This is the printed ABS like resin which is remarkably stronger then you would think but I’m not sure over time it would just take someone catching one of the cables. So I’ve ordered some brass. Given up on the white metal. There are companies that spin mould your part but it’s a lot of money for 10 little bottle screws.
58DF0459-CE48-4930-AB70-5CA7F972CFA9.jpeg
 
Those turnbuckles (as we call them): is there not someone on earth making actual functioning ones to support our addiction, er, hobby? You can't be the only person on earth needing small scale turnbuckles for scale shipbuilding...

Then it would be strong, functional and accurate.
 
The turnbuckle is the bit with a RH thread on one side and a LH thread on the other. Rotating the middle bit pulls it together to tighten.

On the rail of Filmzy's Orca a couple posts up.
 
Those turnbuckles (as we call them): is there not someone on earth making actual functioning ones to support our addiction, er, hobby? You can't be the only person on earth needing small scale turnbuckles for scale shipbuilding...

Then it would be strong, functional and accurate.
Yes you can buy them but there expensive and the detail doesn’t work for my inner geek
7498EDFC-29F1-4AFE-9E8A-D467D940E4DB.jpeg
 
I agree.

More money but perhaps the middle bit can be machined (laser engraved) to remove the bits that don't look correct... Wire EDM can hold that tolerance well too.

Then it's almost a matter of getting them made from scratch ends up cheaper- but I'm not certain of that.
 
Well, I said "will the gages light up?"

EDIT_ but it will be totally worth it in the end, and you'll be glad you did it. I promise.
It's not the lights as much as working out how to hide the connections so the model can be broken down to move. As you can see after much thinking I've gone with 3mm stereo jacks. they will all be fixed in place so when assembling everything plugs in on its own. in theory, we all no what happens to well-made plans.
 
I went though that with a Poe Dameron blaster I made.

It’s a combination of 3-d print and an Airsoft Sig Sauer 226 pistol plus the lights/sound module from a Nerf.

I wanted to have the magazine drop out of the grip to change batteries… I did it of course, (stubborn) but it was a PITA to get the connector angle and position just right so it worked as I wanted it to.

I also added fine mesh to the front “magazine” area of the print to house the speaker so it is more easily heard. LED in the barrel bore. A lot of work looking back but it is one of the more accurate ones since it uses the Airsoft base pistol (the original prop used a real Sig Sauer 226 lower).
 
so this morning consisted of my normal practice when it come to electronics , avoidance, I’ve clean my bench in the house my office and the workshop till I have nothing left but to get started
Just whatever you do, be sure to keep those removed hatches right-side-up. No whistling while you work or sneaking in 3d-printed bananas either.
And definitely no first test sail on a Friday.

Oh, and before you embark on an animatronic miniature shark, you could always just get a real one:

spiny dogfish.jpg
 
Back
Top