Obi-Wan and Vader ANH saber builds

[franz bolo]

2 cents You should use the other version of the booster since the flash hider version probably wasn't used. The Derwent part is officially called a Balance Pipe - Large.

FB

You can use my picture, if you like.

(huge hi-res available if you click my signature banner)

 

[Gregatron]

Wait--what? Are you saying Russ' booster isn't accurate?


Anyway, here's where we're at:

The wrinkle painted worked very nicely on the Vader shroud, and I'm still working on getting the right mix of tones and rust on the steel Kenobi parts.

Also ordered some Brass Black and Aluminum Black for the other parts.

 

[Buck Wild]

Seeing your progress pics makes me want to tackle something like this myself! Can't wait to see the finished product, good luck!

 

[franz bolo]

Wait--what? Are you saying Russ' booster isn't accurate?

Russ's is accurate. I was referring to the diagram photo.

There are at least 2 original versions of this part. The one in the photo has a flash hider that is attached to the booster section which screws into the heat sink.

All of the replicas only have the heat sink part and not the booster or the flash hider.


FB

 

[Gregatron]

Removed the blueing from the grenade with vinegar, as I wasn't entirely pleased with the results. Also beat the grenade up some more.

 

[Lichtbringer]

All of the replicas only have the heat sink part and not the booster or the flash hider.

Au contraire, mon ami - i couldn´t resist and made this while building my saber:

Only barely visible - but i know it´s there.

 

[Gregatron]

A few observations from studying ANH yet again yesterday:


The Death Star corridor version of Kenobi's saber features the following:


* The clamp does indeed look to be the Chronicles one.

* The windvane appears to be in the Chronicles position, as opposed to the lower Tunsia position.

* The handwheel/d-ring looks to be in the Chronicles position, as opposed to the Tunisia position.

* The emitter (which has a distinct, lighter-colored patch on the front) looks to be in the Chronicles position.

* The coloring looks to be that of the Tunisia version--very dark, with a rusty brown-black cast to it.


So, I'd say that the prop definitely went through several stages of evolution, from the Tunisia version to the corridor version to the really battered and reassembled post-production Chronicles photos.

It seems that the major part alignment changes were the rotated booster/handwheel and the windvane placement. The Chronicles patch-job version added the screws/wires and glue blobs.


Also, it's hard to tell, but it almost looks like the V1 Vader didn't have the nail in the clamp during filming--just the usual lever and threaded rod assembly.


Perhaps someone will get some good HD screencaps from the new Blu-Ray release?

 

[Gregatron]

Re-blued the grenade, and am currently giving it a nice, long salt bath.

 

[Gregatron]

Hmmm....seems like the PermaBlue keeps getting into the grenade grooves, causing a not-too-consistent rust pattern. I'd at least like to get a full rust "grid".

 

[parfaitelumiere]

here is how mine looks like for the moment:

In fact it's not exact,look has changed.
Grenade patina is completely achieved.
Clamp patina is better now,more rusty.
I began emitter patina,but it's sleeping for the moment,because idea of true inconel emitter version run.
I would be interested fir the machinegun screw to put in the clamp.
I have to work on black color on mahinegun section,I don't know how for the moment,I thougt about gunblue,but in black color "bronzage noir de guerre"
I was thinking about machining a cap for pommel,but with armitage engraving....
I don't know much about it,just the cap is brass(?!) and other parts are plastic?!
if all brass,will make a brass version,then polish,then add chrome.

 

[Gregatron]

Here's where we're at:

I've been working on the weathering. The grenade is just about where I want it, although I'm wondering if I should dust it with black paint. The rust is a little too bright orange for my taste. Any way to darken it? Or should I brush most of it off immediately before spraying on a clearcoat (and before it can fully oxidize again)?

Also, what's a good clear sealer to use once I'm done weathering?

I've taken pains to match the specific nicks and chips on the balance pipe, including that distinctive lighter-colored patch on the front end. I think I've gotten a nice black (blued)-silver-rust look to the part that seems to match the original.

 

[cayman shen]

love:love

 

[Gregatron]

I'd also like to point out how my brain short-circuits when I look at this thing--half-weathered, half-pristine!

 

[Interceptor6]

It looking great, but that shiny brass does look at odds with the rest!!
A light oil spray should darken that orange rust to a brown.

 

[Gregatron]

Oil as in gun oil? Or another kind?

 

[Interceptor6]

Try a little gun oil near the base and see how it looks. Let it sit 15 min then wipe dry. Used motor oil will be darker yet.

 

[Gregatron]

Been applying Brass Black to the windvane section. Photos soon to follow.

 

[Gregatron]

Currently trading with Kursosawa for a plain aluminum booster.

Used motor oil to tone down the rust a bit. Worked very well!

Still fine-tuning the weathering.


This is coming along very well! I'm aiming for something in-between the Tunisia and Death Star versions. I've noticed a few differences between the two:


Tunisia:

* Emitter and stem very dark.

* D-ring positioned around 4:00 or so (with clamp/bubbles at 12:00).

* Windvane in "correct" position, further down toward grenade.


Death Star:

* Upper stem--and possibly vindvane sleeve--somewhat lighter.

* D-ring positioned more around 3:00.

* Windvane in raised Chronicles position, closer to emitter.


Also, once I get me new booster, I'm wondering how to simulate the weld. Is it a flattened area on one of the ridges, or a blob of extra material?


Finally, I'm wondering how to deal with the clamp. Both the Tunisia and Death Star versions seem to feature a relatively shiny (and presumably chrome tape-free) clamp. However, there's rusty damage on the lever side of the clamp that matches the Chronicles version, and I'm not quite sure how to simulate that.

Also, is the clamp lever rusty and/or corroded? It looks like it is. Any tips on replicating that?



Here's where we're at:

 

[Interceptor6]

Nice! Those colors don't come in a spray can!
Though If you want to "rust up" the clamp a bit, I'd try it in paint first. A bit of burnt sienna, raw umber, and black, dotted around the rust zones.
Play with it on some shiny scrap first.
Jeff

 

[Sym-Cha]

Here's where you can see the weld on this particular booster, although it may vary on each real booster that has been found sofar :

By the way what was wrong with your initial booster? Was it not made of steel?

-Chaim