Nike Mag V2 Mod Discussion (Page 58 Shopping List)

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Finally got some sunshine to give these a full charge.

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I think it might have been better if I glued the front glow part to the inside of the clear sole. It must be touching at the back because it looks brighter.
 

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Seen these pictures on Instagram today thought you guy's would appreciate these concepts.
,What do you think?
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Some things are ok but the extra stitching is crap. Part of what makes the MAG so cool is the minimal seams. The whole outer surface wraps over the toe and forms a seam on the inside that generally not seen. I don't like the extra stitching and the fact that they ruined the clean toe is bad.

The modded heel cup needs work, but in a way I do like the logo with the swoosh.

Ankle buckle kind of looks OK with the ribbed texture.

The part around the EL is OK. But if they are adding that, shouldn't the mid-sole profile change?
 
I total agree the original Mag's just look so much cleaner and the stitching does make a big difference like you pointed out I didn't think about that, good attention to detail Cavx.
I think the colour ways are pretty cool though.
 
It's got some Air Max 90 sneakerboot effects (the midsole colour and especially the heel)
I recognize it as I've a pair of those sneakerboots in a box somewhere. They are really solid. Great for winter.
I'd get them all if they were made haha but replace the strap on the last one with a black strap i think.
It could be pulled off with GITD panels instead of any electronics to break, and Hyperfuse could replace the stitching for the extra colour on the sides.
 
Seen these pictures on Instagram today thought you guy's would appreciate these concepts.
,What do you think?
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It looks good to me ^^ Specially the black one.
I'm not a big fan of the visible stitching but I guess that they were just making a concept on photoshop so it's ok.
I like the new textureon the buckle but not the heel cup too. This heel cup is an important feature of the Mag. (and yes, the swoosh logo on it isn't a good idea)
Not sure about the little piece of colour on the collar, but the sole is cool even without the clear part. Maybe the upper back part near the heel cup should go all around the heel cup... (I'll probably make a photoshop of it to see)

I'd like to see more of these Mag inspired/redesigns from some great designers. There are not so much people who are doing such things. :(
 
Just looking at those images again and would the part on the mid-sole actually be attached to the heel cup? Even though flex is further towards the toe (typically right behind the front oval on the tread), if these parts were one, would it restrict motion?
 
Just looking at those images again and would the part on the mid-sole actually be attached to the heel cup? Even though flex is further towards the toe (typically right behind the front oval on the tread), if these parts were one, would it restrict motion?

Probably as much mobility as a ski boot, which may be why the original MAG had the heel cup and sole separated except for the rear section
 
How do these look now?

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I was sent this pair a while ago that had been damaged (to what might have been a throw away) during the conversion of a sock toe slim that went wrong.

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Basically, too much fabric had been cut off the right shoe. So to repair the damage, I had to extend the toe and then modify the left shoe to match.

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And they are were glued back up.

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From the back.

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This pair was the first to get the new decal kit and a new version of the bubble.
A pair of the CP-3D parts would just complete these.
 

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Anybody ready for the official Nike MAG power lacing? And is there any news on the V3s live if there ever coming out? #twomoreweeks
 
Question about EL soldering :
I got some el sheet but the wires are coming out of it is flat grey contacts.
Is it possible to solder it to a normal electric wire ? Cause I dont have "wire glue" :/

Thanks ;)
 
Question about EL soldering :
I got some el sheet but the wires are coming out of it is flat grey contacts.
Is it possible to solder it to a normal electric wire ? Cause I dont have "wire glue" :/

Thanks ;)

"Tin" the connections first and then "sweat" the connections together. DO NOT attempt to solder directly as you put too much heat into the sheet.
Then you need to put heat shrink over each terminal. You can fold that back and hot glue it to the back of the sheet.

When I pulled my EL out, I noticed I had missed this step on the left shoe which is the shoe that failed. The wires had not broken, rather the standard electrical insulation had worn (just from wearing) and the two (now bear copper wires) had touched and shorted out.
 
cavx :
ok, so I have to avoid any direct contact between the connectors of the EL sheet and the Iron Solder (I don't know if this is the name of the tool you use to solder ^^)

What do you mean by "Tin" and "Sweat" ? Do you have videos of theses process ? (Gosh I should not miss so much english classes when I was young -_- )
 
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@cavx :
ok, so I have to avoid any direct contact between the connectors of the EL sheet and the Iron Solder (I don't know if this is the name of the tool you use to solder ^^)

What do you mean by "Tin" and "Sweat" ? Do you have videos of theses process ? (Gosh I should not miss so much english classes when I was young -_- )

Tinning : Instead of heating the part with the iron and applying solder, you melt solder to the iron and touch it to the part. Almost in wipe. The liquid solder will stick to the metal.
Sweating: Once both parts are tinned, you hold them together and lightly heat with the iron just enough to melt the solder. The parts fuse without actually getting really hot.
 
ok thanks. Now I understand every steps and I can add 2 new words into my vocabulary :)
And in fact that was how I would solder electronic parts in my old videogame cartidges when I did some hacks back in the days ^^
 
ok thanks. Now I understand every steps and I can add 2 new words into my vocabulary :)
And in fact that was how I would solder electronic parts in my old videogame cartidges when I did some hacks back in the days ^^

Exactly. Too much heat and you burn out the component.
 
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