Nike Mag V2 Mod Discussion (Page 58 Shopping List)
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airair
Sr Member
PM me, i'll show you how im soldering the sole lights. Method i use means they will never break.
DragonGalvy
Sr Member
Yes I thought if I had a display pair it might be power lighted, either by LED or EL, but GITD works great for actual wear shoes. No problems with mine yet
cavx
Master Member
Thank you. I will be in touch soon.
If I can't fix these with out having to rip the soles off, I think I will just go GITD, but what I will do this time is mix and pour clear and sprinkle the GITD powder over the clear (whilst still wet rather than mix it in. So it will be 100% on the surface and that will be protected by the clear soles. Should be able to make the parts a bit thinner too.
cavx while making my shoe my el panels came with some connectors so I didn't had to solder, the connection is really strong! (If you want to reenforce heat shrink over connections.)It's one of those that come with pre sized el panels but you maybe able to buy some and heat shrink to secure.
RVLF
Sr Member
Where did you get these ? I think my next mod will be teh strap and that one looks good if the cable is long enough.
DragonGalvy : can you post you gitd shoes in a good size ? With and without light ?
DragonGalvy : can you post you gitd shoes in a good size ? With and without light ?
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thatscoolwire.com
DSplayer
Active Member
You can try wire glue.
cavx
Master Member
I need to get all joins out of the shoe and secure the main pins, but I think the damage is already done now. Looking at this last night, I think the issue is the bus-bar strip I thought was my answer to issue has been snapped under foot. I can repair it, but will only break again.
I think after the new year, back to GITD on this pair.
Mikey McFly
Active Member
My first toe slim on V2s. Pretty happy with the results
cavx
Master Member
Nice. It makes a night and day difference to the look of these shoes.
How long do you want to wait before you have a pair of MAGs on your feet? And do you really want to pay almost $700 for a pair of shoes that you will want to wear?
If these V3s do come out and I pay $700US for a pair of these, you can bet they will be US7 (I wear US10) and sit on my HoverBoard.
slowfinger33
Active Member
Hi All. Since page 58 isn't always updated (sellers/links on ebay change all the time) just curious if anyone has come up on an EL Panel source on eBay that offers the Aqua sheet with a NON laminated backing (and preferably without terminal pins).
I just received mine from elwireseller on ebay for this particular sheet and the back of the sheet is covered with a protective black film (see page 125 for another example of this).
I haven't attempted to remove the black protective film (at work right now) but it prevents the ability to use wireglue for the wire tape.
I'd have to use crimp connectors in order to utilize it.
Just wondering what EL sources you all are using at the moment?
Also, if anyone who is new to this project is looking for the LED materials for a 9V "series" setup, these were my sources:
Ebay
Green (3mm - forward voltage: 2.0 - 2.2)
Yellow (3mm - forward voltage 1.8 - 2.2)
Red (3mm - forward voltage 1.8 - 2.2)
Amazon
Resistors (10 ohm 1/2 watt - 5%)
Styrene Sheet (Size .60 - These worked well for me but you might want a slightly thinner sheet)
I just received mine from elwireseller on ebay for this particular sheet and the back of the sheet is covered with a protective black film (see page 125 for another example of this).
I haven't attempted to remove the black protective film (at work right now) but it prevents the ability to use wireglue for the wire tape.
I'd have to use crimp connectors in order to utilize it.
Just wondering what EL sources you all are using at the moment?
Also, if anyone who is new to this project is looking for the LED materials for a 9V "series" setup, these were my sources:
Ebay
Green (3mm - forward voltage: 2.0 - 2.2)
Yellow (3mm - forward voltage 1.8 - 2.2)
Red (3mm - forward voltage 1.8 - 2.2)
Amazon
Resistors (10 ohm 1/2 watt - 5%)
Styrene Sheet (Size .60 - These worked well for me but you might want a slightly thinner sheet)
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DragonGalvy
Sr Member
I hope this is what you mean, before glow and after a few minutes of charging in the late afternoon sun. Doesn't take long to charge them.
slowfinger33
Active Member
Just an update. For anyone who happens to receive an EL Panel with a black protective film. It IS removable.
Typically the EL will be laminated with a clear plastic. You'll need to remove the clear protective plastic from the front and back of the sheet.
Once removed, you will have access to the back side black film.
Peel the black part off (as seen in the picture) and you will have the exposed back side where you can now hook up your wires or wire tape. Tested this with my 9v and inverter, I cut out a square portion of my EL, touched it with my wire leads and the panel lit right up.
Typically the EL will be laminated with a clear plastic. You'll need to remove the clear protective plastic from the front and back of the sheet.
Once removed, you will have access to the back side black film.
Peel the black part off (as seen in the picture) and you will have the exposed back side where you can now hook up your wires or wire tape. Tested this with my 9v and inverter, I cut out a square portion of my EL, touched it with my wire leads and the panel lit right up.
cavx
Master Member
slowfinger33 do you want to be removable? I get removing it for the joins, but the stuff I have here does not have a protective backing and if your not careful, you can scrape the actual stuff that makes it glow off. So I added a protective layer myself.
Looks like I will have those new letters machined up soon. I tracked the guy the down and gave him another copy of the file.
Looks like I will have those new letters machined up soon. I tracked the guy the down and gave him another copy of the file.
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DSplayer
Active Member
It seems like I can't buy V2s anymore from Karin Chen.
slowfinger33
Active Member
Good Point. I suppose it would probably be best to just remove the area you need to join. Either that, or make use of the crimp connectors that way nothing is removed.
Anything in particular you are using to add a protective layer afterwards once you've done your joins?
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