cavx
Master Member
Trust me, you want to get the toe box out of your shoes. They become SOOOO much more comfortable without that hard thing pressing against your toes after the slim.
Nike Mag V2 Mod Discussion (Page 58 Shopping List)
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Trust me, you want to get the toe box out of your shoes. They become SOOOO much more comfortable without that hard thing pressing against your toes after the slim.
Forget about my question... I think I'm on something
@001FAB : what do you think ?
View attachment 564859
They look much better!
Is this only the ironing technique?
Have you decided what other mods you're going to do on them?
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did is you follow the same stitching line as the shoe around the laces ?
RVLF
Sr Member
Yes, ironing and something different that I'm still working on. And this morning, It looks like the wrinkles are almost gone :cool
I'll have a final result tonight I think.
Forr the mods, I'm going to finish the tongue, and do another strap. And if I can, I'll get rid of the velcro on the sides.
After, I'll replace the push button for the lights and put it in the eras maybe. I have to find a good one before.
I agree. The HC's feels way better too, so I guess the V2 will. But I might have find a method to have a semi socktoe style without having to open the shoe (and I like the idea of not getting in there). I'll tell you about it later
And by removing the thick in sole, I've made more room inside (maybe half a size) so it is still confortable even with the toe box in place. But I have to wear them more than an hour to be sure...
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cavx
Master Member
Not really. It won't come out though.
Do you think it may work if I sperate the 2 layers of fabric where the laces are and stitch it threw the inner layer ?
cavx
Master Member
Sure as long as you can get the two layer back together after you are done. Sounds like extra hard work.
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So these are just steamed?
cavx
Master Member
Another broken wire.
Took these for another spin today.
All was good until some noticed that one side of the left EL was not on and flickered if I twisted my foot.
When I got home, I pulled up the sock liner and found this.
Lucky, easy to repair this time.
This is the 2nd time solder joints have broke on my shoes and why I went to GIDT last year. What has happened here is that the flex in the sole has just strained the solder joint until it broke. I honestly think the only solution here is eliminate the joins in the sole.
If you look at images of the screen used shoe, you sometimes see what looks like a phone or data line cable attached. And I think that might be the answer here. Phone or data line is flat with up to 4 pair of wires. So this means that a single cable can be run up the back of the shoe that allows eight connections at each end. I will need to play with some, but I do think it is possible to carefully divide these wires into pairs to be run off to the different points so that all joins are only at the very ends - ie the EL panel or the connector at the top of the collar.
This data cable would work for both all EL systems as well as EL/LED systems and even when the battery is stored in the heel.
EDIT: Looking back, I did walk these stairs about 30 times today, so maybe this didn't help.
Took these for another spin today.
All was good until some noticed that one side of the left EL was not on and flickered if I twisted my foot.
When I got home, I pulled up the sock liner and found this.
Lucky, easy to repair this time.
This is the 2nd time solder joints have broke on my shoes and why I went to GIDT last year. What has happened here is that the flex in the sole has just strained the solder joint until it broke. I honestly think the only solution here is eliminate the joins in the sole.
If you look at images of the screen used shoe, you sometimes see what looks like a phone or data line cable attached. And I think that might be the answer here. Phone or data line is flat with up to 4 pair of wires. So this means that a single cable can be run up the back of the shoe that allows eight connections at each end. I will need to play with some, but I do think it is possible to carefully divide these wires into pairs to be run off to the different points so that all joins are only at the very ends - ie the EL panel or the connector at the top of the collar.
This data cable would work for both all EL systems as well as EL/LED systems and even when the battery is stored in the heel.
EDIT: Looking back, I did walk these stairs about 30 times today, so maybe this didn't help.
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RVLF
Sr Member
It is Ironin, but I've not used the conventionnal method (like on my HCs)
And it is a result I had in about 10 minutes.
Basically, you put a old shirt or some fabric on the toe box as usual.
Inside the shoe, I made a "shoe last" shape out of some card board. The key is to make a flat shape on the bottom that goes with a light angle.
Strating flat from the tip of the toe and goes up to the laces with an angle of aproximately 20°.
Then, you put the insole on this shape (the shape should be the same than the insole).
Next : You iron from side to side as usual for 1/2 minute (depending of the steam).
After, your shoe should be a bit wet due to the steaming.
You have to shape the toebox with your figners and carrefully put the insole of the other shoe on the fabric.
AND FINALLY : You place a BIG OLD BOOK on this and wait ! (and some other weights if you like)
I waited for four hours but I guess it doesn't have to be so long.
Here is a picture of the "sandwich" method (as I like to call this
)
And VOILA !
Good idea, I'll use this if I make the electrical mods.
Can you post some close ups picture of the area where you did glue / sew ?
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It is Ironin, but I've not used the conventionnal method (like on my HCs)
And it is a result I had in about 10 minutes.
Basically, you put a old shirt or some fabric on the toe box as usual.
Inside the shoe, I made a "shoe last" shape out of some card board. The key is to make a flat shape on the bottom that goes with a light angle.
Strating flat from the tip of the toe and goes up to the laces with an angle of aproximately 20°.
Then, you put the insole on this shape (the shape should be the same than the insole).
Next : You iron from side to side as usual for 1/2 minute (depending of the steam).
After, your shoe should be a bit wet due to the steaming. You have hape the toebox with your figners and carrefully
put the insole of the other shoe on the fabric.
AND FINALLY : You place a BIG OLD BOOK on this and wait ! (and some other weights if you like)
I waited for four hours but I guess it doesn't have to be so long.
View attachment 565419
And VOILA !
Good idea, I'll use this if I make the electrical mods.
Can you post some close ups picture of the area where you did glue / sew ?
I will, I may attempt it tonight (my time) on my left shoe I'll take pics as I creating my tongue.
RVLF
Sr Member
Don't hesitate to take a lot of pictures and close ups on every steps
That'll be great ! and by the way, what glue did you used ?
RVLF
Sr Member
How do you make the led bubble like this ? I mean how to ungloss it ? (I don't find the word in english, as it is not my language so I say "un - gloss" ^_^)
Loctite (did I spell that right) the liquid kinda but I when a little easy with it.
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that is basically roughing the ankle bubble with sandpaper and spraying it with a matte spray.
RVLF
Sr Member
Ok, and you need to open the heel cup to get to the sides and sand the whole bubble ? Or is it ok without opening anything ?
In my case I use that. 6 tiny layer and voila ^^.
http://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B005KOGW30?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
I opened mine one my display pair I'm working on bc I'm adding new lights so I figured if I'm gonna open up the heel cup for lights go a head and take it out and worry about it later. Btw do you now where I can buy styrene sheets ?
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