Nike Mag V2 Mod Discussion (Page 58 Shopping List)

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I worked on the second shoe today....Im amazed at how easy the heal cup came off this shoe. It almost makes me mad that the other shoe took me like 5 days of working on it to get to this point.

I have pulled a few pairs apart now and that is what I found too. One shoe is bonded like nothing else and other just falls apart. QA? Not!
 
Hey guys, I thought I'd ask here since it's more active.

I'm about to glue the brand kit to my shoes. Is superglue correct? If it dries will it crack or anything? Is there another option more suitable?

BTW, I was reading my upcoming Worldcon schedule. It's a doozy, this con is colossal. But anyways, the first night.......Enchantment Under The Sea Dance...:cool
 
Does anyone know if the V1s are still being sold anywhere? They'd be nice to have as a wear-everyday shoe.

RepHot has them for US $50. They are OK for every day kicks I guess.

Hey guys, I thought I'd ask here since it's more active.

I'm about to glue the brand kit to my shoes. Is superglue correct? If it dries will it crack or anything? Is there another option more suitable?

Superglue is fast and pretty good and even though liquid super glues tend to dry brittle, it should remain flexible on this these shoes. I've used it for re-attaching heel cups that come away. Alternatively, look at more rubberized glues like Tarzan's Grip. ,

Be very careful NOT to get any glue on the fabric in any visible areas. The liquid super glue will leave a dark "wet" patch when it dries. Tarzan's Grip may bleach the fabric. I have a small white dot on my uppers where I must have had some residual glue on my fingers during a repair and now I have this white patch. It is small and most people would not noticed it. I know it is there and it annoys me.
 
I wired up one of my cloneprops ankle buckles. It was a pita but turned out well I think. Housed inside the ankle buckle is a 9v rechargeable, over under voltage protection circuit, El inverter, charge port and a small piece of breadboard to make all the power connections. I sealed up the buckle with white caulking to protect the electronics from the shoe and vice versa. I think on the next one I may use hot glue instead as I feel it would hold and fill in gaps better. I then painted the buckle with white plastidip to give it a rubbery feel.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1439774870.961820.jpg


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WOW, looks busy in there. Are the LEDs powered off the same circuit? My LEDs didn't want to run off AC.

Painting the part with plasti-dip was a great idea.
 
The leds get power from the battery once the switch is turned on, El panels get power from the inverter. Here's a little drawing I did when I was planning this out. I call it the power distribution block. It's made of breadboard and is inside the ankle buckle.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1439777167.150604.jpg



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RepHot has them for US $50. They are OK for every day kicks I guess.



Superglue is fast and pretty good and even though liquid super glues tend to dry brittle, it should remain flexible on this these shoes. I've used it for re-attaching heel cups that come away. Alternatively, look at more rubberized glues like Tarzan's Grip. ,

Be very careful NOT to get any glue on the fabric in any visible areas. The liquid super glue will leave a dark "wet" patch when it dries. Tarzan's Grip may bleach the fabric. I have a small white dot on my uppers where I must have had some residual glue on my fingers during a repair and now I have this white patch. It is small and most people would not noticed it. I know it is there and it annoys me.

Okay. I was wondering because I'm gluing some drawer liner to hastily make a future jacket and I got lots of fabric glues. E6000, Fabric Stitch, that kind of thing.

Oh, and will superglue or something like these fabric adhesives work with the letters going onto the cup?

I feel kind of silly asking, but any recommended gluing technique? Bead down the middle? Smooth it on the branding thin? Something else? I definitely want to avoid dark-patches. I would probably be bothered by such a thing as well.
 
Okay. I was wondering because I'm gluing some drawer liner to hastily make a future jacket and I got lots of fabric glues. E6000, Fabric Stitch, that kind of thing.

Oh, and will superglue or something like these fabric adhesives work with the letters going onto the cup?

I feel kind of silly asking, but any recommended gluing technique? Bead down the middle? Smooth it on the branding thin? Something else? I definitely want to avoid dark-patches. I would probably be bothered by such a thing as well.

I use superglue for everything, even when it is not the best choice. I can't comment on the glues you have listed because I have not ever used them. I do hear good feedback about E6000 though.

Gluing the letters probably needs a decent glue because you are gluing foam to rubber and that rubber is both a complex 3D shape and textured. When these are on your feet, there is some range of movement. The biggest concern I have had in people stepping on the back of your shoes. My kid did it to my MAGs yesterday. People are either not aware they are in your space or they don't care.

Can't wait till my new mold is made and I will have almost RD accurate letters.

attachment.php


This is being machined up now.

NIKE = 18mm
MAG = 25mm
 

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  • MAG Lettering 6.jpg
    MAG Lettering 6.jpg
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The leds get power from the battery once the switch is turned on, El panels get power from the inverter. Here's a little drawing I did when I was planning this out. I call it the power distribution block. It's made of breadboard and is inside the ankle buckle.
View attachment 515827

LEDs and Inverter are in parallel, OK. I am really tempted to make up the EL version now and test that. I just want to test the new battery idea first.
 
LEDs and Inverter are in parallel, OK. I am really tempted to make up the EL version now and test that. I just want to test the new battery idea first.

Are you going for longer run times with the 12v setup? I only get about 4.5 hrs of what I'd call acceptable light out of the leds with my setup. El keeps going strong for awhile after that.


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I use superglue for everything, even when it is not the best choice. I can't comment on the glues you have listed because I have not ever used them. I do hear good feedback about E6000 though.

Gluing the letters probably needs a decent glue because you are gluing foam to rubber and that rubber is both a complex 3D shape and textured. When these are on your feet, there is some range of movement. The biggest concern I have had in people stepping on the back of your shoes. My kid did it to my MAGs yesterday. People are either not aware they are in your space or they don't care.

Can't wait till my new mold is made and I will have almost RD accurate letters.

http://www.therpf.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=515885&d=1439782846

This is being machined up now.

NIKE = 18mm
MAG = 25mm

I might just try the E6000, it seems like it would do the job.

The only person who stepped on my Mags was a drunk guy. The cons in my town are spacious, lots of room to maneuver. However this upcoming one, it's going to be ridiculous. We'll see if anyone steps on my shoes.

Is that gonna be just letters, or are you adding them to a cup and then molding the cup?
 
Are you going for longer run times with the 12v setup? I only get about 4.5 hrs of what I'd call acceptable light out of the leds with my setup. El keeps going strong for awhile after that.

That is the goal. So how long does the EL run/last for? It has been discussed that LEDs kill the power. And in the end of the day, why do we need them to be LEDs? It is not like they sequence or anything. They are just on as 12 tiny points of light in 3 colours.

So why not use white EL behind colour filters and a mask? Now the bubble, strap logo and soles all run off the one circuit. And probably run much longer.

Is that gonna be just letters, or are you adding them to a cup and then molding the cup?

A bit of both. I need to make accurate letters to be added to both my own wear pair as well as a modded pair of heel cups that I will mold and cast in light grey.
 
So how long does the EL run/last for?

And in the end of the day, why do we need them to be LEDs?


EL lasts for over 5 hours. LED's last about 4 hours but start dimming around 3 hours.

The answer to your LED question is: Accuracy
 
20150817_170315.jpg Heres my test...shoe goo mixed with acrylic paint...the tag is glued to the paper so it seems to still keep its gluing properties as well as the color. Think i should give it a shot ? or just go with regular shoe goe and paint on top of it once its cured
 
EL lasts for over 5 hours. LED's last about 4 hours but start dimming around 3 hours.

The answer to your LED question is: Accuracy

For a display pair, I agree 100%. For a wear pair, not so much because no-one ever gets that close to your shoes and what is more important at an event is the lights all work all the time.

I will draw up what I am wanting to do and.

View attachment 516171 Heres my test...shoe goo mixed with acrylic paint...the tag is glued to the paper so it seems to still keep its gluing properties as well as the color. Think i should give it a shot ? or just go with regular shoe goe and paint on top of it once its cured

If this cured, then great job. It had to better than clear shoe goo. I'd like to use this on the parts I am modding except that some additive silicone rubbers don't like anything air cured.
 
For a display pair, I agree 100%. For a wear pair, not so much because no-one ever gets that close to your shoes and what is more important at an event is the lights all work all the time.

What I have done is bring extra batteries with me, They weigh nothing and I just swap them out. It gives me 10+ hours of great lighting and they look awesome. It takes all of 2 minutes to swap them out.
 
I have some EL issues - it is just not bright! In the pair I am building up I am using a 3V system. Yet even after swapping out the 3V inverter to 12V and upping the battery to 9V, only a slight inclease in brightness, but nothing like images on the net would suggest. Any suggestions?
 
Ok so im starting to get ready for wiring and I was messing around with my el pannels I bought. The pannel I bought came with this huge 12v inverter. Im planning to do a 9v setup ( i basically bought everything off the shopping list except for the el since the link was old). I connected the el pannel to my 9v inverter and put a 9v battery on it and it did not light up. However when I tried it with the 12v inverter it lit up. So would I have to buy an el pannel specifically for a 9v setup ? Sorry for the noob electronics question

This is the el pannel I bought http://www.adafruit.com/products/414
 
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