Nike Mag V2 Mod Discussion (Page 58 Shopping List)

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Yes I did. For a display pair, you will want the 12 LEDs, but for a wear pair, it doesn't really matter, and I used alcohol based pens and colored in the slots. I used a single white LED behind that. I think Cloneprops had the 12 LEDs the same as what Jedifyfe does.



I can not seem to find it right now, but I had a vector file for the MAG. It should be posted in the original V1 MAG thread from 2011.

id love to get that vector art as well anyone have a direct link
 
Yes I did. For a display pair, you will want the 12 LEDs, but for a wear pair, it doesn't really matter, and I used alcohol based pens and colored in the slots. I used a single white LED behind that. I think Cloneprops had the 12 LEDs the same as what Jedifyfe does.



I can not seem to find it right now, but I had a vector file for the MAG. It should be posted in the original V1 MAG thread from 2011.

Thanks a lot, Im going to check it out.
 
I have made another batch of the glow in the dark mix up with a bit more blue tint. Yeah it has potential though I still have some kinks to work out.

attachment.php


Under bright light, the parts have this very light blue tint to them and then will glow in the dark. The tint could be added with no Glow powder as well. I was expecting this tint to be a darker blue. Adding more tint makes the rubber darker but also less transparent.

The challenge in this batch is air getting trapped under the NIKE logo which is embedded in clear in this image. Also only one of the front oval parts has additive as I wanted to show pure clear Vs tint side by side. Both are bubble free. The small bits you may be able to see between the treads are actually from de-mold as these have not been cleaned up yet.
 

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Nice job! Do ya think u can make glow in the dark inserts that go behind the clear soles, like you did with your "fake EL" tests?
 
I have made another batch of the glow in the dark mix up with a bit more blue tint. Yeah it has potential though I still have some kinks to work out.

http://www.therpf.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=414753&d=1418425117

Under bright light, the parts have this very light blue tint to them and then will glow in the dark. The tint could be added with no Glow powder as well. I was expecting this tint to be a darker blue. Adding more tint makes the rubber darker but also less transparent.

The challenge in this batch is air getting trapped under the NIKE logo which is embedded in clear in this image. Also only one of the front oval parts has additive as I wanted to show pure clear Vs tint side by side. Both are bubble free. The small bits you may be able to see between the treads are actually from de-mold as these have not been cleaned up yet.

Do you reckon it would look good by adding a small bit of white tint to the clear soles so it looks more or less identical to the screen used ones?
if so, that would be awesome!

how much % of tint did you put in to the blue clear sole part?
 
Do you reckon it would look good by adding a small bit of white tint to the clear soles so it looks more or less identical to the screen used ones?
if so, that would be awesome!

how much % of tint did you put in to the blue clear sole part?

Yes a white pigment would definitely cloud the mix to make them closer to SA. I don't have any on hand, but will buy some soon.

I have Royal Blue which is about the same colour as blue food dye and that front sole part mix was just 2 drops for 100g of rubber.
I also have a duck egg blue at home, so might mix a batch of that as well. If you saw images of the clear soles I made 2 years back (before I got a vacuum chamber) and they look whitish or very slightly bluish look to them. Some of the white is small bubbles in that set though. Now through vacuum, I can pull all the bubbles out.

The other thing I am looking at is mixing a light grey to coat my mid-soles. The paint I used bombed, so the ONLY way I see of changing the colour of the mid-soles is to tint the rubber and given this rubber is quite tough, a thin coat should bond quite well to the textured mid-sole. I may have to add in some form of texture to make the new coating textured as the nature of this clear (which I will tint grey) will self level and be smooth.

One way I could add texture is to use silicone putty to take an impression of the current texture, coat the mid-sole, then layer the silicone over the top. Because it is silicone, it won't stick to the elastomer and once it cures (takes 6 hours to cure) will be left with light grey texture that is a skin over the original darker grey. It might also stop this cracking of the mid-sole I keep having to glue up. Anyway, a project for next year now.
 
Nice job! Do ya think u can make glow in the dark inserts that go behind the clear soles, like you did with your "fake EL" tests?

Yeah and I think that might actually give a better optical result. I would just need to make a shallow open back mold that I can pour into.
 
I have made another batch of the glow in the dark mix up with a bit more blue tint. Yeah it has potential though I still have some kinks to work out.

http://www.therpf.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=414753&d=1418425117

Under bright light, the parts have this very light blue tint to them and then will glow in the dark. The tint could be added with no Glow powder as well. I was expecting this tint to be a darker blue. Adding more tint makes the rubber darker but also less transparent.

The challenge in this batch is air getting trapped under the NIKE logo which is embedded in clear in this image. Also only one of the front oval parts has additive as I wanted to show pure clear Vs tint side by side. Both are bubble free. The small bits you may be able to see between the treads are actually from de-mold as these have not been cleaned up yet.

How do the black parts of the Nike emblem react to the glow-rubber being over them? Do they give off any glow or does it all look like it's coming from the letters?
 
How do the black parts of the Nike emblem react to the glow-rubber being over them? Do they give off any glow or does it all look like it's coming from the letters?
The rubber that covers the rubber is very thin, so the glow is not really pronounced. On the clear parts it glow because the thickness of the rubber and the Glow powder seems to need a bit of density to work. I left the mixing cups on the bench and I could see the base glowing after I turned out the lights, but only a hint on the sides of the cup. Again due to the thickness of the material.
 
The rubber that covers the rubber is very thin, so the glow is not really pronounced. On the clear parts it glow because the thickness of the rubber and the Glow powder seems to need a bit of density to work. I left the mixing cups on the bench and I could see the base glowing after I turned out the lights, but only a hint on the sides of the cup. Again due to the thickness of the material.

I actually went ahead and ordered some of that Glow Inc Ultra-blue, water-based paint version. Got some white vinyl and Nike logos too.

Gonna try to prototype a strap tomorrow if the paint arrives on schedule. I'll remember to lay it on thick.
 
I actually went ahead and ordered some of that Glow Inc Ultra-blue, water-based paint version. Got some white vinyl and Nike logos too.

Gonna try to prototype a strap tomorrow if the paint arrives on schedule. I'll remember to lay it on thick.

Cool. Your paint will probably behave differently to this powder I am using as your paint sits on the surface, where this powder is mixed into the rubber at liquid state. So based on volume, the amount is probably the same, but yours will be more concentrated being on the surface only. The benefit of mixing it in to the rubber is that it can not scrape off.
 
What I found was that those NIKE logos I had printed on clear scrap off quite easily. I am now thinking about reversing the image so that the print is on the inside of the plastic. Once embedded, they will be very well protected.
 
What I found was that those NIKE logos I had printed on clear scrap off quite easily. I am now thinking about reversing the image so that the print is on the inside of the plastic. Once embedded, they will be very well protected.

Yeah, I realized that after getting the print. I'm just gonna flip them around and use them to experiment, they don't need to be correct orientation for prototypes.

I can get a reverse printing when I got my mags in hand.

Also, anyone got a measurement on the rectangle cutout for the strap logo?
 
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No, you can't cut the border off, you are stuck with it. They are only good for other uses, not for these Mags where space is minimal.

They are also presoldered and i found the connections weak. It was basically a wasted A5 sheet. The best EL sheets are one where there is minimal space between the edges.

OK then if not here where can I / we get EL sheet in the UK? I was just about to order the A5 sheet off EL wire so thanks for the post!

He has got this "we have a great driver that is the same size as the 9v one but runs off a small thin li-ion battery that is rechargable by usb" about to go on his website which sounds interesting......
 
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