Nike Mag V2 Mod Discussion (Page 58 Shopping List)

[nitrox]

I think it stands for "key" as when the three other colors are overlaid on top of each other they make the key (black).

 

[cavx]

Ok cool. They don't use black?

 

[nitrox]

As its a four color process I think they use a combination of colors to achieve any one color, I could be mistaken though.

[emoji106]

 

[cavx]

I asked my father in law (he has over 20 years experience with printer servicing) and he said the K does denote black.

 

[airair]

I asked my father in law (he has over 20 years experience with printer servicing) and he said the K does denote black.

Do you plan to get the rubberbond in the exact shade of light grey?

PS, I forgot to ask before, what was the shore hardness of the clear polyurethane casting rubber you used for the clear soles?

 

[cavx]

Do you plan to get the rubberbond in the exact shade of light grey?

PS, I forgot to ask before, what was the shore hardness of the clear polyurethane casting rubber you used for the clear soles?

Not sure just yet. I may tackle a complete new mid sole when I am done on my clear soles.

The shore hardness of the clear rubber is A60. The shore hardness of the very first version I did back in 2012 was A80. That clear cost more, but gave me the option of selecting my desired shore hardness which ranged from A20 (really soft) to D figures which are harder than Perspex.

A shore hardness of A60 is supposed to be the same as a high performance tyre. But it needs to be heat cured to reach said hardness and I am yet to build a heat box to bake them in. The instructions say 31degrees C for 12 hoursand then 71 degrees C for another 3.

I found dropping them into boiled water and leaving them until the water is cool enough to reach in and remove then makes them much harder than when they come fresh out of the molds.

I have worn the pair on my MAGs with the side pieces glued and there is no real sign of wear so far.

 

[airair]

Not sure just yet. I may tackle a complete new mid sole when I am done on my clear soles.

The shore hardness of the clear rubber is A60. The shore hardness of the very first version I did back in 2012 was A80. That clear cost more, but gave me the option of selecting my desired shore hardness which ranged from A20 (really soft) to D figures which are harder than Perspex.

A shore hardness of A60 is supposed to be the same as a high performance tyre. But it needs to be heat cured to reach said hardness and I am yet to build a heat box to bake them in. The instructions say 31degrees C for 12 hoursand then 71 degrees C for another 3.

I found dropping them into boiled water and leaving them until the water is cool enough to reach in and remove then makes them much harder than when they come fresh out of the molds.

I have worn the pair on my MAGs with the side pieces glued and there is no real sign of wear so far.

What do you think about the grey midsoles, what type of shore hardness would be best for them?

 

[airair]

I just did a Steam Iron toe mod on a fresh new pair. These are a US Size 9.5 (UK 8.5).

For anyone wondering, this is about the best you can get with the Steam Iron method on this particular size of the shoe. On the smaller sizes, as Jedifye and others have already mentioned, the grey fabric would overhang, meaning you would probably be best cutting some of the excess grey fabric off if you didn't want the muffin overhang look.

Overall, there are minimal ripples after ironing the toebox out. I used a wooden shoe tree inside the toe area to keep it rigid, and ironed over a plain t shirt.
It seems to have come out good, and on feet, it looks nice.

 

[Vormz]

I ordered a US 8,5 cause the 9,5 was too big. I would like to try the steam method... damn!
I don't want to do the "French Nike Mag Massacre"

 

[Jedifyfe]

I'm just not a fan of the steam iron toe slim.

 

[cavx]

Looks good airair.

I ordered a US 8,5 cause the 9,5 was too big. I would like to try the steam method... damn!
I don't want to do the "French Nike Mag Massacre"

LOL then do the steam method dude. My shoes (wear pair) do have a slight muffin top because I attempted to flatten the toe to get the "sock type" look rather than the bullet look I got on my US8 display pair.

 

[Vormz]

Could we create a grey scale in paint to work out a close colour match? I would suggest simply posting a photo except everyone's monitors are not calibrated to the same level (colour temperature), so will look different. If we work in RGB levels in paint, at least we have a level playing field. Even though the image may look different on a computer monitor, when taken to professional print place, should be able to get close reference colour card.

Maybe using the RAL colour references is the best way for everybody to find the same right grey. Every painters know those references, I guess.
http://www.ralcolor.com/

 

[cavx]

I'm cool with that.

Notice the 2nd column has RGB values where for this "silver grey" (RAL 7001) RGB is 138-149-151.

And further down the chart I found "Agate Grey" (RAL 7038) with RGB levels of 195-195-195.

^^ Could be what we want ^^

 

[cavx]

Latest upgrade Time for lights before gluing.

Notice it is not as glassy as the last, yet 98% bubble free. These size US13s actually fit the US9.5s but will need a bit of trimming on the backs.

Today I plan on getting some lights back into the soles. I plan of feeding the wire through the stitched opening where the original charge and power switch wires came outf. Using a chop stick, I can work the point from that hole between the two layers of material right around to the lights on the Heel Cup. I guess the best thing is to carefully cut a small hole (the wings on the Heel Cup are detached from the material at this time) through the outer layer. The big question is, how do I get the wires down into the sole?

I removed the batteries from the mid soles last night and will have to fill the cavity with some foam. One was just tacked in whilst the other was glued in super strong and was a real effort to get out.

And the super glue test worked. Probably a little too well as I destroyed the clear sides I had made up and attached just getting them off. Same as the yellow sole underneath. I has experienced some cracking of the mid soles and used the same glue to repair these cracks in the grey mid-sole. The yellowing rubber just tore at those point regardless of how much heat I applied. Not bad for $0.70 for 6mm.

 

[cavx]

All wired up And I managed to do this without compromising the inner liner. This was a little easier because I didn't have rubber soles to work around and also had a hole in the botttom (battery compartment) to help work the wire through.

Not doing any more tonight. Lights will have to wait until later.

 

[DragonGalvy]

wow, what is the wire you're using, car speaker wire? That's pretty chunky looking, hope it doesn't make them uncomfortable to wear. On the upside, it should last forever.
You goanna do the whole EL panel installation?
Now's your chance to repaint the midsole, too. If you do it by brush like I did, make sure you use very fine bristled brush.

 

[Vormz]

I'm cool with that.

Notice the 2nd column has RGB values where for this "silver grey" (RAL 7001) RGB is 138-149-151.

And further down the chart I found "Agate Grey" (RAL 7038) with RGB levels of 195-195-195.

^^ Could be what we want ^^

As Jedifyfe said, it seems that the grey is very light, almost white.
Maybe RAL 7047 or 7035 are closer. Don't you think?

 

[Jedifyfe]

I took this photo tonight. I grabbed some paint swatch sample cards from Home Depot. This way most people should be able to figure out the shade of grey.

 

[cavx]

As Jedifyfe said, it seems that the grey is very light, almost white.
Maybe RAL 7047 or 7035 are closer. Don't you think?

I'm thinking that the RAL 7035 is good match and we know it is available.

 

[Vormz]

I took this photo tonight. I grabbed some paint swatch sample cards from Home Depot. This way most people should be able to figure out the shade of grey.

It helps, thanks!