Nike Mag V2 Mod Discussion (Page 58 Shopping List)

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airair said:
im trying to figure out though, how the hell the heel cup was stuck if that stuff dries in 5 seconds?

its a fairly big area to glue over under the heel cup, fairly awkward as well.

ill have a look for some standard glue,but in Uk loctite pimps out standard to about 50 different varieties
Click to expand...

I'm sure you have a tiny bit more time than 5 seconds, and even then you just do it fairly quickly and you should be able to get it. And just try ebay to get the exact stuff Jedi uses.

Here, I found it for you.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Loctite-S...105?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b9cb57e9
 
airair said:
im trying to figure out though, how the hell the heel cup was stuck if that stuff dries in 5 seconds?

its a fairly big area to glue over under the heel cup, fairly awkward as well.
Click to expand...

Did you remove the entire heel cup or are you just referring to the ankle bubble area?

I glue the bottom part of the ankle bubble (triangle area where the LED's are) then the top part.
 
I used the powerflex on everything, stuck perfectly, i found the normal liquid ran too much risk of being absorbed into the fabric, the gel allowed be to place blobs bit by bit then i held it very tight
 
airair said:
what do you call the little plastic bottle with the thin needle end which you use for going around the edges with extra glue?
Click to expand...

Search ebay for "syringe bottle" or "liquid flux bottle."



MitasTouch said:
This keeps getting pushed back and no one is answering it. DL4567 needs help and wants to know how to get the kink out of the side of the shoe when slimming the toe. I'm just trying to help him out.
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Hehe, thanks I appreciate that! This thread moves so fast with so many questions, unfortunately many of them do not get answered. I know there's only so much people can say about the toe slim and the rest is learned from doing it for real. I was just wondering if anyone else encountered that same inner-side kink and if there was a certain "trick" to fixing it. I'll keep messing with it and will probably get it looking good when done.
 
who45 said:
I used the powerflex on everything, stuck perfectly, i found the normal liquid ran too much risk of being absorbed into the fabric, the gel allowed be to place blobs bit by bit then i held it very tight
Click to expand...

hi
i tried the powerflex gel on the heel cup ankle bubble area, but couldn't get it to stick, dont know why, just my luck i guess.:eek
and its only 3g in these bottles? what the hell do these loctite people think they are doing? 3g??!! thats hardly enough. I need at least 20g!

so had to get some contact adhesive from wickes which worked (it was a greeny type color though). i had to brush on a little on the fabric and under the ankle bubble area and wait 15 minutes before sticking them both together.

I guess this contact adhesive type of glue is what they use when they are sticking the actual shoe uppers to the soles, albeit in a more professional manner with some machinery.

I guess this is what all the shoe makers use, some form of contact adhesive which cures best after about 24 hours or so.

I just checked the glue on the area i did, and it seems to have got stronger.
 
Jedifyfe said:
Did you remove the entire heel cup or are you just referring to the ankle bubble area?

I glue the bottom part of the ankle bubble (triangle area where the LED's are) then the top part.
Click to expand...

hi, yeah, i just removed the side where the ankle bubble is.
I don't know why it wouldn't stick to the fabric.

i used the same powerflex loctite gel as who45 but it didnt seem to work for me. maybe i didn't do something correctly, i don't know but it was very troublesome to glue it, so had to try something else.

Most of the loctite superglues come in really small packets of 3g for some reason.

I have seen some other DIY brands which have more superglue quantity in them, so i guess i could try them, since they are all likely to be similar strength anyway as loctite.

The £2 contact adhesive from Wickes seems to be a bargain, considering the size of the tube!

I'll probably get some standard superglue for the toemod, and glueing the clear sole back.

and stick with a very thin layer of contact adhesive for the heel cup area.
 
well anyways, here's a pic so far of one shoe. the clear sole hasn't been glued back on yet and toebox and strap to be completed.

mag3v_zps8afeef68.jpg


3v Thin Inverter Setup working without any issues.
12 leds (all 2v forward voltage drop) with 15 ohms resistors in parallel.
2 x 1.5v AAA batteries power supply.
EL and Led's both light up perfectly, good brightness.

I've just been using some standard duracel aaa's which i had lying around (i think they were used) and they seem to be lasting a good while.

I'm guessing a pair of lithium 1000mah AAA's would last quite a while, whilst some Rechargeable NIZM specialist 1.6v AAA (3.2v when using two of them) at 800mah would be a good long lasting setup.

Its easy to remove the AAA batteries from the holder, so its a good alternative if anyone wants to do it this way, if they can't get their hands on a thin 9v inverter.

I'm still looking to get the thin 9v inverters so i can set some pairs up with that setup and have some rechargeable dc pins.
 
airair said:
well anyways, here's a pic so far of one shoe. the clear sole hasn't been glued back on yet and toebox and strap to be completed.

mag3v_zps8afeef68.jpg


3v Thin Inverter Setup working without any issues.
12 leds (all 2v forward voltage drop) with 15 ohms resistors in parallel.
2 x 1.5v AAA batteries power supply.
EL and Led's both light up perfectly, good brightness.

I've just been using some standard duracel aaa's which i had lying around (i think they were used) and they seem to be lasting a good while.

I'm guessing a pair of lithium 1000mah AAA's would last quite a while, whilst some Rechargeable NIZM specialist 1.6v AAA (3.2v when using two of them) at 800mah would be a good long lasting setup.

Its easy to remove the AAA batteries from the holder, so its a good alternative if anyone wants to do it this way, if they can't get their hands on a thin 9v inverter.

I'm still looking to get the thin 9v inverters so i can set some pairs up with that setup and have some rechargeable dc pins.
Click to expand...
Hello,
I takes my inverters here, speaks with the huang violla lady and you make your request of command in the message, with your references and price.
If you want small lump sum, takes by four parts, minimum with delivery china post if you are not pressed, otherwise to you to see!
Search because there is of all, has more.

Inverter with fixer/EL wire driver/ DC power inverter,View el wire driver inverter,okled Product Details from Shenzhen Lesterlighting Technology Co., Ltd. on Alibaba.com
 
whyme said:
did i say it was easy. i just said it's not worth your outrageuos price.
it's alright. i'm not going to argue with you anymore. i don't think it's worth it. :p
Click to expand...

To me it's beyond worth it, it depends on what you mean as "worth it" I've been waiting to own a pair for $20 years so that amount compared to $5000 for the real ones is welllllllll worth it. maybe not to you
 
SETFREE said:
To me it's beyond worth it, it depends on what you mean as "worth it" I've been waiting to own a pair for $20 years so that amount compared to $5000 for the real ones is welllllllll worth it. maybe not to you
Click to expand...

i agree just the cost of parts alone makes it worth it considering they are in the upwards of 150-$200 themselves ( in aussie dollar).
Not to mention the fact that he knows what hes doing from lots of experience,So there is going to be no trial and error compared to someone who has not done it before.
 
ProgramThis said:
i agree just the cost of parts alone makes it worth it considering they are in the upwards of 150-$200 themselves ( in aussie dollar).
Not to mention the fact that he knows what hes doing from lots of experience,So there is going to be no trial and error compared to someone who has not done it before.
Click to expand...

EXACTLY.........I took some pictures of my pair from him they will be up shortly, they are nothing short of AMAZING
 
For those who want to know if the battery of the lever PS3 goes into the buckle, well yes.
There is a battery 3.7V 1800 mah which loads(charges) to 4.2 max.
An advice of load responsibility lythium battery, with source entered of 4.5V-5.5V, and two led witness: red, charge - blue:charge full, and he cuts the charge. (On picture, the mini ubs is present but it is delete since).
I am soon going to finish my monster of a machine, I would go back with picture of my conversion soon.

View attachment 154479

Here is the view, with led red that weakens (at the end charge), and led blue(bruise) which is going to become fixed (complete, test multimèter:3.95V-4.05V).battery ps3 charge max:4.2V.
Small blows plastic from on the bottom of leds blue origin
mag réplica.
Module 5V/1A here:
5pcs/lot 5V Mini USB 1A Lithium Battery Charging Board Charger Ultra Small Module-in Charger from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com
View attachment 154487

Here, platinum led origin sanded both quoted, and paper sheet picture white glace, stuck on platinum led, then to drill, and to put leds in position.
View attachment 154488 View attachment 154489 View attachment 154490 View attachment 154491
 
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Just finished the 2nd 9 volt loom. You can see how it's capable of lighting both strap and sole lights. I'm currently working on the LEDs. When they are done I will post a picture of the loom lighting all 3 lights. I've used a twisty tie on the 2nd loom to show how compact it can be made to fit inside the shoe tounge.
8629641675_9be9fafa5b_b.jpg
 
Now all 3 lights are being powered by the 9 volt battery. Making that LED board was actually quite fun. It was very satisfying when I flipped the switch and all the lights came on at once. It nearly blinded me.
8631326364_7b774af1d7_b.jpg

My soldering skills are getting better everyday. I followed Jedi's tip about putting a layer of hot glue behind the LED board for added protection.

Here's a video of the 9 volt kit in action.
9 Volt Light Kit for V2 Nike MAG Shoes - YouTube

I just need to make another sole light and led board and I'm ready to install everything inside the shoes. Work is having me leave out of town for 2 weeks soon, and unfortunately all this fun will have to be put on hold if I don't finish it. So well see :)
 
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MitasTouch said:
RobertTX, does your mod only work when putting the electronics in the toe? Because it looks like if they were anywhere else that you would feel them.
Click to expand...

My plan is to put everything inisde the pouch of the shoe tounge, not the toe area. The tounge is the white part in the middle of the shoe that comes up towards you.
 
airair said:
how do you plan to hide the connectors? unless you shove them to the side somehow, your feet will be touching them.

It will be interesting to see how you do this, because if you can, then it certainly makes the wiring a lot lot cleaner.

At the moment, the current wiring system is a complete mess and difficult to arrange, especially in the shoe.
Click to expand...

I will be make a video showing how I put it all together. Basically all the lights will be pre-wired in the shoe, and you will see 4 wires coming out of the shoe where you put your feet in. The 9 volt assembly will then be placed inide the shoes tounge pouch. When the assembly is fully inserted in the pouch, I will snap connect the 4 wires coming out of the shoe to the 4 ports waiting inside the pouch. Sow up the tounge opening and voila! Done! Any excess wires will be tucked away within the lining of the shoe and tounge.
 
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