Interesting to hear. So if they succeed, how will members from here purchase them? And do we just tell you if we want a disassembled pair and the factory would do it?
Nike Mag V2 Mod Discussion (Page 58 Shopping List)
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Interesting to hear. So if they succeed, how will members from here purchase them? And do we just tell you if we want a disassembled pair and the factory would do it?
DragonGalvy
Sr Member
Cool at least there is an update on that project for the rest of us who would be interested in getting a few pairs of this special 'airair' version and maybe a few disassembled ones too.
Thanks for letting us know what's happening.
Thanks for letting us know what's happening.
If the pairs are Therpf exclusive, then it might be a good idea for an interest thread to be made for how many people want the "kit" version. I'm not sure if they will be a permanent product since aiair said he would be ordering 1000 pairs.
cavx
Master Member
No I didn't and I think this why it didn't stick to the new shoes as well. My MAGs were bought about August last year, have been worn everywhere including in the rain. I have cleaned them several times and I guess that was good enough for the paint to bond to.
What I notice happening in a few places was the grey paint was displacing the splatter. What I had to do in these cases was let it dry, then dab grey before painting. Maybe the paint used on the splatter is more than a simple enamel.
I think acetone prepping is in order for the two pair I have here.
cavx
Master Member
This is only one coat BTW. See the small pits. Not sure if these are just porous areas of the rubber or the beginning of cracks. The soles of my shoes started to crack between the oval part and the rear outer-sole late last year. The splits became alarmingly deep. I just poured superglue into the cracks, taped it up for the night and left them to set. Not sure if it is worth repainting or just see if the splatter paint fills these. Hopefully I can get these done today.
Great news about your progress on the "V3". So hope these are able to be done.
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People are going to want to see this first. Any improvement on the V2 is welcome IMO. And for the suggested price, why not by 2 or 3 pairs?
cavx
Master Member
So you say that the EL wire is not bright enough? I am hoping this not the case as a bag turned up today with EL wire and inverters. Hope they are bright enough for my project.
OT, I just skimmed back 50 pages looking for how one of the early midsole painters did their splatters. I think I got the color right, but the lines are way too thick making the pattern look like urban camouflage.
The leds are alot brighter if u ask me.im going to try to post pics to compare later today when I get off.dont get me wrong the elwire looks really good in the dark and the blue-green color seems spot on, I just wanted something brighter during the day.its just all a matter of personal preference. The el wire is a bit to deal with with the tiny angel hairs and I didnt think I would hold up well in the sole as these are going to be my wear pair.i really dig the gray on your midsoles, looks awesome.also can you let me know when you start selling the clear soles, I definitely need a set of those!
I just used generic hobby paint for the splatter on my first pair. It is really durable and doesn't crack or peel. I then cut a paint brush to be very thin.
cavx
Master Member
Looks like I'll be stripping them off again then. I used a very fine paint brush and a fine metal spike. If the paint was too thin it runs off and splats (literally) like a rain drop hitting the pavement, and if it is too thick, it just sits on the applicator.
The paint can be cleaned up with turps when when but once it is dry, it is time for acetone. What I did notice yesterday was that if I mixed some turps into the paint to thin it, it because stringy like melted plastic. If only I could get the paint to do this on the mod-soles, I'd have a really good result. Looks like Urban Camo until my next day off :unsure
The paint can be cleaned up with turps when when but once it is dry, it is time for acetone. What I did notice yesterday was that if I mixed some turps into the paint to thin it, it because stringy like melted plastic. If only I could get the paint to do this on the mod-soles, I'd have a really good result. Looks like Urban Camo until my next day off :unsure
If they're already going to be gluing the white portion on, there is no problem. Just tell them that the grey fabric UNDER the white doesn't have to be complete. You have a piece with a triangle cut out of it that is JUST bigger than the triangle itself. Sew the triangles together with right-sides-together then invert the seam, gluing the wrong side of the grey fabric to the shoe structure. The edge of that will be covered by the white cuff glued over top of it.
Do the same thing to enclose the seam along the top edge, below the cuff and you're in business.
I'm almost certain that's how the RDs were constructed, just with a line of stitches inside the shoe along the bottom of the white piece. Check out this picture and you can make out outlines of what appear to be these "incompletely" internal pieces under the white piece.
-Nick
PS: If you or they are having trouble visualizing it, I can whip out some cheap fabric and sew it up quickly to demonstrate.
cavx
Master Member
Also heres a pic of them in the dark, the shape looks pretty good
And that is passing through the yellowing soles as well, so pretty decent. I like it. So what is that tape you have used?
No tape was used just el wire, a small piece of styrene and mirror chrome sign vinyl.the vinyl is the same stuff people wrap their vehicles with or would be used when making banners and signs.i have a vinyl plotter so I used black vinyl for my nike logo also.
cavx
Master Member
very cool.
Can you explain or post images of how to join/terminate the EL wire? I have 2m here that appears to have a small plastic cap over the end. It looks like it has just been cut and capped. Is there anything special to be done here?
The lead that attaches to the inverter seems to be twin flex. It is joined to the EL wire under a piece of heat shrink. How does one identify the positive terminal?
Can you explain or post images of how to join/terminate the EL wire? I have 2m here that appears to have a small plastic cap over the end. It looks like it has just been cut and capped. Is there anything special to be done here?
The lead that attaches to the inverter seems to be twin flex. It is joined to the EL wire under a piece of heat shrink. How does one identify the positive terminal?
I used the solid piece, I think its copper, that is in the middle of the wire as my positive.there are 2 tiny wires that need to be twisted together that are kinda hard to see, I used them as my negative.ill try to post a pic of the stripped wires when I get home from work today.the best way to strip it is to use a heat gun.if you use wire strippers be careful not to strip off the 2 tiny wires or the el wont light up.my wire arrived raw and I had to cap one end with hot glue.
BTTFSpencer
Sr Member
Random thought: What if Nike made two different sizes? Size 7's for MJF and a different size for the stuntman, is it possible? MJF is 5'4 and the Stuntman was 5'6 if I remember right.
Just a random idea I had. I'd be curious to see if the screen used ones out there differed in size, determining which was used by Fox and which was used by Charlie Crawl (I think was his name?)...
Just a random idea I had. I'd be curious to see if the screen used ones out there differed in size, determining which was used by Fox and which was used by Charlie Crawl (I think was his name?)...
Does anyone know what happened to cloneprops? The last time he was active was in July.
chrisguyver
Active Member
Good idea but were do I get the pdf file of it
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