New BMF coming

For those interested in replacing the 50 or so missing panels on the Hasbro, I now have a file that will make it much easier. A stencil that you print out on a peel and press label. Email me directly if you want it, as I do t know how to post it here. There is no charge. melvillejosh@gmail.com


Could you explain these? I have them as you were so kind to offer them to everyone but I am unclear on where they go and exactly what they are. Are they just random flat panel section that are on the SS Model but not on the Hasbro??

Thanks
 
Most of this you may know.

But...

The smooth substrate surface of the original model was detailed with panels of "armor plating".

For the colored panels of the original (grey, rust, etc.) Hasbro provided stickers, but in the locations where the stickers go (where the colored panels were on the original), Hasbro "left the panel off", with just the smooth hull "showing". We're to place the sticker directly onto the smooth hull, in lieu of a molded-in armor plate.

The templates allow you to create your own replacement plating to glue on...
 
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Here is where i am at the moment. Fitted my LED's today and will be getting some sort of frosted plastic tommorow to put over them. Paint is no where near done, and ive decided im going to use some graphite powder to give it the manky feel. Isnt as good as some of you maestros but im getting there ;) Also, does anyone have any idea of where i could print off a copy of the cockpit rear wall??

Thanks

Lee

SAM_3689 (800x600).jpgSAM_3690 (800x600).jpgSAM_3692 (800x600).jpg
 
Decided to give this mf a little support.

mainframe624web.jpg
I really thought about the expanding foam angle but ended up just sticking with what I know,
besides this will be better to add bracing for a stand.

mainframe345web.jpg
It fits really well to the main body, but where it fits into the mandibles needs a bit shaving off.
It will also need cutting where the lights go in the back but I will leave that till I know how much to cut away.

If I could scan it in others could use it as a template but my scanner is way to small, umm and also it doesnt work. :)
 
Paint is no where near done, and ive decided im going to use some graphite powder to give it the manky feel.

Graphite may leave a bit of a metallic shine. You may perhaps like that, or maybe you can dull it down with a flat clear coat.

But my suggestion would be to use pastel chalks.
 
Decided to give this mf a little support.

View attachment 408274
I really thought about the expanding foam angle but ended up just sticking with what I know,
besides this will be better to add bracing for a stand.

View attachment 408275
It fits really well to the main body, but where it fits into the mandibles needs a bit shaving off.
It will also need cutting where the lights go in the back but I will leave that till I know how much to cut away.

If I could scan it in others could use it as a template but my scanner is way to small, umm and also it doesnt work. :)


Could you scan it in halves and we just match them up????

- - - Updated - - -

Most of this you may know.

But...

The smooth substrate surface of the original model was detailed with panels of "armor plating".

For the colored panels of the original (grey, rust, etc.) Hasbro provided stickers, but in the locations where the stickers go (where the colored panels were on the original), Hasbro "left the panel off", with just the smooth hull "showing". We're to place the sticker directly onto the smooth hull, in lieu of a molded-in armor plate.

The templates allow you to create your own replacement plating to glue on...



Thank you so much. That explains it.

I don't have a BMF handy (buried in the garage right now) but did they do this for the full electronic figure play BMF as well????

- - - Updated - - -

BTW you guys rock!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Happy to help...


Question for those taking the toy apart - does it go back together fairly easy with no loss of structural integrity?
 
Happy to help...


Question for those taking the toy apart - does it go back together fairly easy with no loss of structural integrity?

Yes it does go back together fine even if you break the main body into four, it only has one problem, lining up the little guide thingys but thats mostly obvious when its not working.
Dont over tighten the screws though, not until the last time you put it together :)

and @jameth1971 I have just remembered that my work has a bigger scanner so i could try there and post it, wont be until wednesday or thursday next week as I am away for a few days.
 
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and @[I said:
jameth1971[/I] I have just remembered that my work has a bigger scanner so i could try there and post it, wont be until wednesday or thursday next week as I am away for a few days.


That would be awesome.

Thanks so much. That will save a lot of work.
 
Could you explain these? I have them as you were so kind to offer them to everyone but I am unclear on where they go and exactly what they are. Are they just random flat panel section that are on the SS Model but not on the Hasbro??

Thanks

They are surface panels that are missing on the toy because Hasbro would like you to put stickers there. If you go several pages back on this thread you can see examples complete with photographs of what I'm referring to.
 
Junk Pilot to answer your question I am a carpenter and joiner, I mean like old school carpenter and joiner.
All carpentry is achived through scribes of one sort or another, you offer up the piece, in this case the plywood and use a pair of dividers, plumb bob/spirit level or in this case a good old compass and make your mark.
Any way it needs a little work but I will have nailed it tomorrow :)
Just occoured to me all I have to do is draw around the shape on paper and I can break it up to scan in.
Now if I can get just get my scanner to work.....
 
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Yes it does go back together fine even if you break the main body into four, it only has one problem, lining up the little guide thingys but thats mostly obvious when its not working.
Dont over tighten the screws though, not until the last time you put it together :)

I'm gonna hold mine together with magnets,....adding the Docking bays will then seel the thing shut

All screw-holes can be filled or plated over

J
 
Decided to give this mf a little support.

View attachment 408274
I really thought about the expanding foam angle but ended up just sticking with what I know,
besides this will be better to add bracing for a stand.

View attachment 408275
It fits really well to the main body, but where it fits into the mandibles needs a bit shaving off.
It will also need cutting where the lights go in the back but I will leave that till I know how much to cut away.

If I could scan it in others could use it as a template but my scanner is way to small, umm and also it doesnt work. :)

Nice A-wings in the background by the way.
 
An SSM member (johnnycrash) is planning a set of PE grilles for this....
FZ6 is doing two cockpit cones, short (stock length) and a 5mm extended version.
 
Thanks 'albertese......Its a dead end because of the lines and not enough material. FYI....they also make a cheap little MF. Thanks for checking.

Spacebob....Ya know whats funny? We all gravitate to tools and materials we know best. I went with the PVC pipe only because I was fixing sprinklers. You went with a wood internal support (which looks professional BTW) because thats what you do! I hate working with wood. Too many noisy/big tools.

Robiwan...Please post links when available. I need the 6 sidewalls the most. I can take a mold off something for the engine details.

PHArchivist.......I just included you in this post to say.........
 
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