New BMF coming

Really nice TronGod!

You don't need textures for 3D printing. Check the fingers: not too thin or it will be unprintable. Just keep all the fingers of each hand in one object..

Looking good!
So is a thumb out of the question? Newer version made all the fingers a cluster and has a stubby thumb...I am hoping we can scale him up later for the Deagostini Falcon (if they really make USA versions! )... Not sure if they are going to have any figures in that model..from what I've seen the answer seems to be no.... but since it's got the inside..making a R2 unit putting out fires....luke crying because he lost his hand..dead stormtroopers stashed in the floor compartments.....and other such things would be interesting to mess with :)
 
So is a thumb out of the question? Newer version made all the fingers a cluster and has a stubby thumb...

I will check when you send the model. It will be ok depending on the size and thickness.

A big thumb up for you!!! :D
 
So is a thumb out of the question? Newer version made all the fingers a cluster and has a stubby thumb...I am hoping we can scale him up later for the Deagostini Falcon (if they really make USA versions! )... Not sure if they are going to have any figures in that model..from what I've seen the answer seems to be no.... but since it's got the inside..making a R2 unit putting out fires....luke crying because he lost his hand..dead stormtroopers stashed in the floor compartments.....and other such things would be interesting to mess with :)

1:48 scale figures aren't "tiny"; the 1:350 scale injection molded sailors made by Tamiya are truly tiny. Harrison Ford is said to be 6'1", according to Google results. I think making the figure an even 1.5 inches tall (standing of course) would make life easier, though using CAD you can be as precise as you wish. I'd say you have managed to render a rather good likeness. To give some idea what is possible in the scale, you only have to look at examples such at the Richthofen brothers sculpted by Mike Good:
Model Cellar 1/48 scale Verner & Manfred Richthofen

Of course, Mike is working in clay and you're not, that must make a difference.

Regards,
Robert
 
1:48 scale figures aren't "tiny"; the 1:350 scale injection molded sailors made by Tamiya are truly tiny. Harrison Ford is said to be 6'1", according to Google results. I think making the figure an even 1.5 inches tall (standing of course) would make life easier, though using CAD you can be as precise as you wish. I'd say you have managed to render a rather good likeness. To give some idea what is possible in the scale, you only have to look at examples such at the Richthofen brothers sculpted by Mike Good:
Model Cellar 1/48 scale Verner & Manfred Richthofen

Of course, Mike is working in clay and you're not, that must make a difference.

Regards,
Robert
Well it's always possible to go into z-brush and there would be no end to the amount of detail we can do....but..how would it print? :)

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Walmart Update... Web price 69 bucks...store price $30 bucks... Picked up a spare today. I get the feeling these will soon be gone and replaced with an EP-7 version... Trick is..will it be the same thing with a new dish? Or a more kid friendly version with less details...
 
Hi Guys,

I tried the LED strips with the wire connectors in a mock-up fitting to see how it is.. Looks promising....

I got these 12V Blue LEDs from Ebay and I only use one strip. I also use a white diffuser strip between the LEDs and the Connectors to bend the lights and avoid hotspots. These are held temporarily by blue tack.

I can say the mock up trials is a success and I can proceed with the final version using styrene sheets.

The outer part is still not final as there will be the engine grilles that will cover those connectors.

IMG_20150201_194901.jpgIMG_20150201_193551.jpgIMG_20150201_193115.jpgIMG_20150201_192702.jpgIMG_20150201_194950.jpgIMG_20150201_192648.jpg
 
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I've looked through all 84 pages of this thread and I haven't seen anyone tackle or support any ideas on the landing ramp yet. To be honest the ramp is scarring me to death. I know I can get the inner parts from Shapeways, but how to cut the ramp out nice and strait is something I don't know how to tackle. The dremel is out of the question because it takes out material and leaves a gap. The only thing I can think of is an exacto, but how to make this strait I don't know. I guess I can use a metal ruler as my guide, starting by scoring it first. Any ideas? Anyone tried this yet?
 
HXqBVOO.jpg

Hi kokari,

I tried that already and so far it good and straight. I outline it first with pencil then I use an normal cutter slowly scoring it. Repeating it several times.


KgYXrJA.jpgbelkmWa.jpgjihBwK9.jpgPzrIN9s.jpg
 
Well it's always possible to go into z-brush and there would be no end to the amount of detail we can do....but..how would it print? :)

- - - Updated - - -

Walmart Update... Web price 69 bucks...store price $30 bucks... Picked up a spare today. I get the feeling these will soon be gone and replaced with an EP-7 version... Trick is..will it be the same thing with a new dish? Or a more kid friendly version with less details...

Oh yes, the print resolution is definitely the limiting factor. Doesn't pay to go higher than the printer can handle (and I suspect doing so may actually cause problems...) Reading my post, I think I may have come off more critical than encouraging? I just meant to say don't feel constrained by the scale; plus, you certainly have an excellent basis for further refinement if possible.

RE: the price drop, you must wonder what's up when they don't do it through the online sales. Isn't shipping extra above the base price? We'll have to see what happens with a possible new version. Sales of this one will undoubtedly color what they do next.

Cheers! Robert
 
Hi kokari,

I tried that already and so far it good and straight. I outline it first with pencil then I use an normal cutter slowly scoring it. Repeating it several times.
That's really nice!!!

I've designed the complete ramp. Now I've to resize it for the Hasbro.

Your approach is excellent. No fitting problems! I will do the same to get the exact measurements.

What about the hinge?
 
That's really nice!!!

I've designed the complete ramp. Now I've to resize it for the Hasbro.

Your approach is excellent. No fitting problems! I will do the same to get the exact measurements.

What about the hinge?

Hi Tony!

Thanks, I was thinking of gluing a brass rod at the end that extends a bit from the top end (i.e. like a T ) then secure on the ship with u shape end caps..

Let see how it pan outs...or I can use your resin kit ones and go from there..

:)
 
That's really nice!!!

I've designed the complete ramp. Now I've to resize it for the Hasbro.

Your approach is excellent. No fitting problems! I will do the same to get the exact measurements.

What about the hinge?

I found these really small brass hinges that I am going to use. I used them for the landing flaps on a Y-Wing I did and they worked really well. I found them in the doll house section at my local craft store. HaHa
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Miniature-P...t=US_Dollhouse_Miniatures&hash=item5d41e4b0bd
 
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JPCOdessa70;355 Hi kokari said:
WOW, that looks really nice!. I guess that's the way to go. I think I'll wait for Tony to resize his and order one to make sure I cut it to the right size.
 
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Hi Tony,

I was just wondering if it is possible to make the Floor grilles of the Main Room, I have been searching the net and could not find anything that would match.

It can be made a half A4 size and can be cut to fit to size....

O766KVY.jpg
 
Hi Tony,

I was just wondering if it is possible to make the Floor grilles of the Main Room, I have been searching the net and could not find anything that would match.

It can be made a half A4 size and can be cut to fit to size....

View attachment 433777

Yes, it can be made.

I will search to have the exact shape and I will do it as you suggest; a simple sheet to be cut for each one.
 
Hi Tony!

Thanks, I was thinking of gluing a brass rod at the end that extends a bit from the top end (i.e. like a T ) then secure on the ship with u shape end caps..

Let see how it pan outs...or I can use your resin kit ones and go from there..

:)

Yes, this system is OK but the problem is the rotation of the ramp. There must be a gap between the end of the ramp and the hull. I've used a system on my MPC ramp that works, but is too big and it's impossible to hide.
 
Yes, this system is OK but the problem is the rotation of the ramp. There must be a gap between the end of the ramp and the hull. I've used a system on my MPC ramp that works, but is too big and it's impossible to hide.

Kokkari's small hinges can do the trick then, just need to carve small recesses on the ramp and ship to fit those hinges...
 
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Since you just need the part that's translucent anyways, can you just chop off the opaque part and then set them slightly less far back?
The opaque part is the embeded metal connectors, they would have to be cut out from the back, I might try that as an experiment, I have never cast Before, but clear cast resin might be brighter.....

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Hi Guys,

I tried the LED strips with the wire connectors in a mock-up fitting to see how it is.. Looks promising....

I got these 12V Blue LEDs from Ebay and I only use one strip. I also use a white diffuser strip between the LEDs and the Connectors to bend the lights and avoid hotspots. These are held temporarily by blue tack.

I can say the mock up trials is a success and I can proceed with the final version using styrene sheets.

The outer part is still not final as there will be the engine grilles that will cover those connectors.

View attachment 433662View attachment 433665View attachment 433666View attachment 433668View attachment 433670View attachment 433669
brilliant that looks good, and could save time manufacturing a grill
 
View attachment 433243
Didn't get to this as much as I was hoping to..anyhow...got him roughed up, he has just solid colors -so this is un-textured. Now the real question is..how detailed to make him..since he will be tiny tiny :) Any input welcomed..I know he's a little wonky in bits right now.
That's brilliant , I'm in, Chewie,, luke, lando leia and nium nunb don't stop :)
 
Hi Vac!

Yeah, I removed those metal connectors and just used the plastic shell. You still need to put a diffuser strip in between so the LED hotspots wont show.

I will still put the rectangular engine grilles on the outside as it is suppose to be... lets see...
 
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