New 10th Doctor Sonic Screwdriver Universal Remote

[Taichi]

Got mine in the other day and I freaking love it! Actually my first viewing wasn't so good. I've had the 9th Doctor's sonic made by CT but sold it cause I liked the 10th version more. So having that version and remembering how it felt, I was slightly disappointed just from the plastic feel, and less heft.

However, that has gone out the window after playing around with it and I truly love it more than my old CT version.

So great job! The only gripe is my LED isn't straight in the emitter, it's slightly bent, but I can live with that. The rest of it is immaculate and everything fits together nicely, so I'm ecstatic!

 

[Usagi Pilgrim]

Just got back from Wal-Mart:ninja...they sent someone to check the circuits in the back.


My daughter said I needed to lose the goofy grin, but it's still here:thumbsup.

 

[Doctor Octoroc]

To darken mine first I gave the plastic body a coat of Tamiya X-19 Smoke and left it to dry. Afterwards I sanded the body with 1500 grit wet/dry sand paper. Last step was giving the body a clear coat to protect it.

That's a great method, I happen to have some of the Tamiya clear paints laying around but hadn't thought to use them for darkening the crackle. My last attempt at using the smoke was over a silver enamel and I couldn't get a consistent coat for a gun metal look I was going for, but in the cracks, it will be nice and organic! Will post my results once I do it...

Just got back from Wal-Mart:ninja...they sent someone to check the circuits in the back.


My daughter said I needed to lose the goofy grin, but it's still here:thumbsup.

This will be me later on today...so devious!!!

 

[AnubisGuard]

The best measure of the sonic's success is that I can't stop playing with it. I'm always fiddling with it at home. Even when it's off, I love to just roll it around in my hands and push and pull at the parts. Too much fun. Great job, Chris and Richard!


(Now get on a River Song sonic screwdriver. :angel)

 

[TheNickFox]

Well... there is also a good functional reason for the shorter slider slot length...

***SNIP***

I must say that Richard and I love your (I mean all y'all) attention to detail, including the odd gripe here, it's all great to hear, as it helps us realise what is and isn't important in a project like this, especially as we embark on our next project. ;-)

I figured there was a good reason like that. And like I said, I actually liked the aesthetics of the slot not cutting across both bumps. AND now that I know this actually matches at least one screen used sonic's slot, it's a double win for me.

...we're a silly bunch like that. It doesn't take much for us to go from minor nitpick to, "Oh, hey! This is so awesomely screen accurate."

I haven't been able to put my sonic down since I got it yesterday, (It's so much fun to play with, or even just hold) and the attention to detail you guys put into this (And as evidenced by the detail in your post) is unbelievable. I'm sure I speak for everyone when I say thank you! I don't think there is another company out there that could have delivered something THIS amazing on the time table your team did, at the price point you did, or at the level of accuracy your team did.

Anyone who tries to compare this to any other sonic (Licensed, Toy, or otherwise) does it a disservice. This piece is its own entity and should be judged on its own...and it's blown me away.

...now to go find more TVs to "sonic." Seriously, it's the funniest thing to sonic off someone's TV, especially when the code is towards the end of the list. They look at you like you're crazy and then the TV goes off and they suddenly get very confused at the magic you hold in your hand. :lol

-Nick

 

[Asp9mm]

AND now that I know this actually matches at least one screen used sonic's slot, it's a double win for me.

It doesn't. Both the A and B props have the longer channel. I think you misread something along the way somewhere.

I also prefer the aesthetics of the shorter slot not cutting into the ridges. 100% screen accuracy on this piece doesn't bother me as it's epic as it is.

 

[TheNickFox]

It doesn't. Both the A and B props have the longer channel. I think you misread something along the way somewhere.

I also prefer the aesthetics of the shorter slot not cutting into the ridges. 100% screen accuracy on this piece doesn't bother me as it's epic as it is.

See the thread I was linked to earlier by E Williams:

And it can be justified for reasons other than aesthetics - this is far from an outlandish idealization as the first Tenth Doctor sonic body (made by Mark Cordory) had a similar shorter slot that only went to the groove between the bumps

Seen here: http://www.therpf.com/f9/9-10-sonic-screwdrivers-new-me-info-137253/

Relevant picture from that thread showing length of channel on this particular sonic body:

-Nick

 

[Asp9mm]

But that's a different prop entirely to the Tennant A and B props that TWC's sonic is based upon.

 

[NakedMoleRat]

He never said it wasn't. He stated that knowing that one of the prop bodies had a shorter slot was good for him. I also noticed that the emitter head on TWC sonic closely resembles the MFX version that I have.

 

[Bluebox303]

I just want to say that if you failed on a crack darkening technique using acrylic paint, just use some alcohol swabs and the paint will come right off, leaving the clearcoat behind, but you have to be somewhat speedy

 

[Asp9mm]

He never said it wasn't. He stated that knowing that one of the prop bodies had a shorter slot was good for him.

But that's a bit daft. You might as well say that you don't care if the lens was red as one sonic prop had a red lens. It doesn't match any screen used prop as the other areas are off from that prop.

The point is, the Wand Co. sonic is a damned good piece in its own right, to add spurious and tenacious justification to the essential changes they had to make from 'screen accurate' to 'design needed' detracts from the perfect working replica of the B prop delivered by TWC. Accept and enjoy.

Apologies for my post going off on a tangent, but some posts on here are slightly muffled due to heads being lodged too far in duodenums.

 

[Asp9mm]

I just want to say that if you failed on a crack darkening technique using acrylic paint, just use some alcohol swabs and the paint will come right off, leaving the clearcoat behind, but you have to be somewhat speedy

If you have the patience - and it will take a day or two and then maybe then some. Go over the crack grooves with a pin and then rub black automotive spray paint into them with a fingertip. It will be long lasting and look perfect without any excess getting on the raised bits and making it too dark overall. Which is what has happened in the mods shown so far. It's not a quick method, but it will yield the best results long term.

Use a quality black shoe polish for the end bulb to make it darker. Again rub it in with you finger. Allow to dry then polish with a cloth. Repeat as necessary. You can't get it any blacker than that.

 

[NakedMoleRat]

But that's a bit daft. You might as well say that you don't care if the lens was red as one sonic prop had a red lens. It doesn't match any screen used prop as the other areas are off from that prop.

The point is, the Wand Co. sonic is a damned good piece in its own right, to add spurious and tenacious justification to the essential changes they had to make from 'screen accurate' to 'design needed' detracts from the perfect working replica of the B prop delivered by TWC. Accept and enjoy.



Apologies for my post going off on a tangent, but some posts on here are slightly muffled due to heads being lodged too far in duodenums.

You may want to try reading an entire post before deciding to make such an intelligent argument! Some agendas just never die!.........

 

[Bluebox303]

If you have the patience - and it will take a day or two and then maybe then some. Go over the crack grooves with a pin and then rub black automotive spray paint into them with a fingertip. It will be long lasting and look perfect without any excess getting on the raised bits and making it too dark overall. Which is what has happened in the mods shown so far. It's not a quick method, but it will yield the best results long term.

Use a quality black shoe polish for the end bulb to make it darker. Again rub it in with you finger. Allow to dry then polish with a cloth. Repeat as necessary. You can't get it any blacker than that.

Thanks for the advice!

 

[TheNickFox]

But that's a bit daft.

Daft or not, everything I've said is true, plus my opinion on top of that. So I'm confused as to why this caused such discussion. There's nothing to discuss, let's leave it at this: I like the way it looks with the shorter channel and there was A filming prop that comes close to matching this single feature.

Done. Now let's leave my taste out of this and continue to discuss this awesome piece made by an awesome company.

-Nick

 

[Usagi Pilgrim]

Now I'm making plans based on the awesomeness of this thing. I recently got an old friend into DW. He's almost to the end of Tennant's run & everytime we talk, he goes on & on about how he can't believe it's taken him this long to get into it. Even though we live only about 45 minutes away from each other, we only get to see each other once or twice a year. He called today & we arranged to meet to exchange some items we'd borrowed from each other & he suggested getting together tomorrow after church for lunch. There's a Mexican place in the city that has decent food, but not great...BUT...they have a wall of TVs.


I am grinning like an idiot again in anticipation.

 

[NakedMoleRat]

I just finished darkening up the crack lines the old fashioned, time honored way. Friction! Yep, just kept rubbing my thumbs over and over until they darkened up nicely. No painting or sanding needed, and itstill has it`s clear coat.

 

[AnubisGuard]

Has anyone yet translated the Morse code messages?

 

[MEKKANNOID]

Has anyone yet translated the Morse code messages?

I'm pretty sure one of them says 'Allons-y'

 

[Risu]

Am I correct in thinking the aluminum parts of this have been clear anodized? If so, does anybody have any recommendations for getting rid of it? I tried lightly polishing it with a drum and it had no effect, so it's not just that the metal is dull.