Netflix' Marvel Daredevil Build (all costumes)

Just saw your post, Nomad202. Apologies if I kinda "copied you", didn't realize it was the same type of product. It seems like it could work if you put it over something you planned to use though I would think. Perhaps adhere it to another fabric since you'd be stitching it down anyhow? And if it were glossy couldn't we still distress it/darken it somehow?
 
Glad to be of help! Remember to add seam allowances when you cut out the pieces, and also that most of these seams are French seams, ie: flat-felled.

Finally catching up on this after being able to come up for a little air. I wanted to comment on the seams thing and maybe save you all some headaches. Flat-felled and French seams are not the same.

French seams are where you sew the pieces wrong sides together, trim the allowance to a scant 1/8", turn them back on themselves and restitch the seam wrong sides together (thereby capturing the raw edge inside the two lines of stitching. This I mainly used on very thin, sheers or crepes. I old not recommend this for anything with substantial weight as the bulk will be unmanageable. Also, all the corners and curves will be very difficult.

Flat-felled seams are like the seams on a dress shirt. The simple way to do them is to sew the pieces with the right sides together (like normal). You then trim one (only one) side of the seam allowance to half the width. You fold the other side offer that raw edge and press it all to the folded side and edge stitch the seam allowance through the right side. This captures the raw edges in the folded over allowance and creates a top stitch at a consistent width from the actual seam and there are no raw edges and no serving. Again, very bulky.

What I typically do with these types of costumes (eg: my Cap suits) is simply sew the pieces and then top or edge stitch the seam allowances down and trim the excess form the inside. When dealing with non-fraying fabrics like nylon Cordura, jumbo spandex, faux/real leather, ponte and such, you don't have to worry about all the little edges being finished. If you do have something that frays, just go over it with Fray Check after you trim it. When dealing with heavier fabrics and things that have lots of piecing and decorative seams, this is the most streamlined approach with a minimum of bulk.
 
Finally catching up on this after being able to come up for a little air. I wanted to comment on the seams thing and maybe save you all some headaches. Flat-felled and French seams are not the same.

French seams are where you sew the pieces wrong sides together, trim the allowance to a scant 1/8", turn them back on themselves and restitch the seam wrong sides together (thereby capturing the raw edge inside the two lines of stitching. This I mainly used on very thin, sheers or crepes. I old not recommend this for anything with substantial weight as the bulk will be unmanageable. Also, all the corners and curves will be very difficult.

Flat-felled seams are like the seams on a dress shirt. The simple way to do them is to sew the pieces with the right sides together (like normal). You then trim one (only one) side of the seam allowance to half the width. You fold the other side offer that raw edge and press it all to the folded side and edge stitch the seam allowance through the right side. This captures the raw edges in the folded over allowance and creates a top stitch at a consistent width from the actual seam and there are no raw edges and no serving. Again, very bulky.

What I typically do with these types of costumes (eg: my Cap suits) is simply sew the pieces and then top or edge stitch the seam allowances down and trim the excess form the inside. When dealing with non-fraying fabrics like nylon Cordura, jumbo spandex, faux/real leather, ponte and such, you don't have to worry about all the little edges being finished. If you do have something that frays, just go over it with Fray Check after you trim it. When dealing with heavier fabrics and things that have lots of piecing and decorative seams, this is the most streamlined approach with a minimum of bulk.

Thank you for that information. I had spent some of my frustration this weekend trying to figure out seams and what to do. To keep me from getting any more of a headache I did like you stated at the end. I stitched what I have done so far normally and than added a liquid non-fray to the edges. Seemed to be like super glue. Hopefully that works. I may trim the edges a little more once I am done and reapply it again since I left a little extra. Was so frustrated by Sunday night I forgot to even try the pants on. Lucky for me they are a tad tight, but nothing I can't fit into, especially if I loose about 5lbs or so.
 
I'm still on the fence about the black fabric to me the crotch, ankle and forearm appear to be leather or something similar whilst the facemask section is almost cordura (no idea how cordura could be sewn like that) and I'm thinking the black stomach parts are Kevlar/carbon fibre gonna order my material next week.
look forward to seeing your build
 
If your referring to the cowl, the "fabric" texture is a 3D model so its sewn its printed along with the rest of the helmet :)
I'm still on the fence about the black fabric to me the crotch, ankle and forearm appear to be leather or something similar whilst the facemask section is almost cordura (no idea how cordura could be sewn like that) and I'm thinking the black stomach parts are Kevlar/carbon fibre gonna order my material next week.
look forward to seeing your build
 
If your referring to the cowl, the "fabric" texture is a 3D model so its sewn its printed along with the rest of the helmet
smile.png

Can you verify that it's printed? Because there's a shot where you can see the fabric inlay lifting away from the rest of the cowl.

Right here:
DjF30OW.gif


Closer:
NUOG6fK.gif


Slowed down:
N0WOpF0.gif


At first I thought it was a slit up the back, till I discovered where it really separated
 
Last edited:
I don't see what your talking about. But another member here had an email conversation with the costume maker on this. She said it was a 3D printed fabric. So it may have been printed and glued down...maybe your seeing the glue fail here? I'm just passing info on, don't think you'll find a fabric if it's been designed and printed..like most of the hero suits out there these days :)
Can you verify that it's printed? Because there's a shot where you can see the fabric inlay lifting away from the rest of the cowl.

Right here:
http://i.imgur.com/DjF30OW.gif

Closer:
http://i.imgur.com/NUOG6fK.gif

Slowed down:
http://i.imgur.com/N0WOpF0.gif

At first I thought it was a slit up the back, till I discovered where it really separated
 
This dark line here. In motion you can see it flapping open and closed, and appears to be the thin strip of fabric between the right and rear panels lifting up as he moves.

cWtvNka.jpg


530VlKM.gif



The comment about the "3D printed fabric" came from the costume designer responsible for everything except the actual Daredevil costume, IIRC. She may have been referring to the type of printing utilized for things such as the Man of Steel suit, or she could have been, you know, totally wrong as she had no involvement with the creation of the costume in question. Regardless, I am indeed talking about a glue failure; you're the one that said it was printed with the helmet

They print 3D textures onto fabric now, like the silicone pattern on the Man of Steel Superman suit.

I'm aware, I was responding to "its printed along with the rest of the helmet" which implied it's a part of the cast and not a separate element
 
And the article in question

Along with a higher-res copy of this photo:

atSH33L.jpg


Unfortunately, the only actual info about the suit itself (as opposed to the BTS concepts influencing the decisions they made) was this little nugget, which most had already assumed: "... we did our normal process of modeling the head and the cowl [in] 3D with Josh Herman...."
 
This dark line here. In motion you can see it flapping open and closed, and appears to be the thin strip of fabric between the right and rear panels lifting up as he moves.

http://i.imgur.com/cWtvNka.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/530VlKM.gif


The comment about the "3D printed fabric" came from the costume designer responsible for everything except the actual Daredevil costume, IIRC. She may have been referring to the type of printing utilized for things such as the Man of Steel suit, or she could have been, you know, totally wrong as she had no involvement with the creation of the costume in question. Regardless, I am indeed talking about a glue failure; you're the one that said it was printed with the helmet



I'm aware, I was responding to "its printed along with the rest of the helmet" which implied it's a part of the cast and not a separate element

I think that's just the design of the helmet. It has two black lines that go along the sides of the helmet.
 
I think that's just the design of the helmet. It has two black lines that go along the sides of the helmet.

I know, I modeled the helmet :D

DeOUSEo.png


But if you look at the image closely, the area in question doesn't appear to be extending down between the panels, but popping out above them; that dark blob isn't the fabric (which would read as grey in that light as the other black portions do) but looks to me as a shadow cast by the fabric not sitting in its channel. I'm probably doing a bad job of explaining, but you can see odd puckering in this shot that makes the glue job look questionable:

mQyrCzK.jpg


I thought I had a screen of that particular area featured in the gif, where the fabric wasn't aligned properly, but I can't find it right now.
 
That's cheaper but it's basically a giant sticker, so it will look glossy. The other stuff is the actual fabric.
The suit itself is quite shinny though I can't personally see how this vinyl would work I'm looking at textured lycra seeing if I can find something similar
 
So I know this sounds crazy, but I am a sucker for off-the-rack clothing. Especially from on screen characters who share my name
(My actual name is Matthew. Last name not Murdock)
And I am in the works now to put together some civilian Matt clothes. But one piece of clothing would be his shoes from the episode "Guns to a Dogfight". When he's in the alley looking for clues, I spot some black converse. Idk if its the classic canvas style, or the leather style.
 
Back
Top