Daredevil Billy Clubs

[IkonicArtifacts]

I've been re-watching the Netflix Daredevil series before watching the new series and it motivated me to actually get to work on a project that I've wanted to do for a while now. I've been machining for about 5 years now, mostly doing lightsabers, but the billy clubs are something that really stuck out to me as something really cool while also being relatively simple. These are entirely made of aluminum and anodized with a steel cable inside. The main difference between mine and the ones in the show are that mine screw together while the ones in the show use detents to be able to quickly separate them. I did try use some of the detents in the process of making mine but ultimately it just didn't feel very sturdy and that was more of a concern to me than making them 100% accurate. Overall I'm super happy with them.

I would appreciate if anyone has any tips for anodizing knurled pieces. It's something that I've had trouble with in the past and would love if anyone has any advice for preventing bubbles from sticking in the little grooves and keeping it from getting anodized in those spots.

 

[smithjohnj]

Vibration can be useful to remove bubbles from surfaces. This is often mentioned to remove bubbles from resin castings. Thick fluids, even concrete, can be improved with low frequency vibrations, others may require higher, even ultrasonic frequencies, so some experimentation may be needed. I have made simple, small vibration tables by making a jig to mount a pad sanders or orbital sanders upside down. There are a number of online videos for making more exacting vibration tables.

 

[rocketeer25]

these look amazing! great work!

 

[JPH]

I am actually working on an old-school set, but I 3d printed the diamond pipe and then cast it in Task 16 rubber.

The hook, the center ring with a button, and the end cap were sculpted in FreeForm air, and cast in Task 16 rubber as well.

I know conventions aren't too friendly with metal weapons, these you can bend.

You can cast it with metal powder and red pigment to get that anodized look.

If you are determined to anodize it, Id recommend light sprays of etching primer from left-right and up-down patterns and then something like a Duplicolor Annodized red if you want bright red. I would rotate the pipe as you spray it from a 90degree angle (slowly spin the pipe).

I feel like Daredevil has a darker red.
I uses 4 drops of red pigment per 4 oz of liquid rubber and 1 drop of black per 4 oz liquid rubber for that darker red look.

 

[IkonicArtifacts]

Vibration can be useful to remove bubbles from surfaces. This is often mentioned to remove bubbles from resin castings. Thick fluids, even concrete, can be improved with low frequency vibrations, others may require higher, even ultrasonic frequencies, so some experimentation may be needed. I have made simple, small vibration tables by making a jig to mount a pad sanders or orbital sanders upside down. There are a number of online videos for making more exacting vibration tables.

I did think about that, I just haven't really figured out a solution. I had a cheap little fish tank air pump in the anodizing tank but it died pretty quickly.

 

[IkonicArtifacts]

these look amazing! great work!

Thank you very much!

 

[IkonicArtifacts]

I am actually working on an old-school set, but I 3d printed the diamond pipe and then cast it in Task 16 rubber.

The hook, the center ring with a button, and the end cap were sculpted in FreeForm air, and cast in Task 16 rubber as well.

I know conventions aren't too friendly with metal weapons, these you can bend.

You can cast it with metal powder and red pigment to get that anodized look.

If you are determined to anodize it, Id recommend light sprays of etching primer from left-right and up-down patterns and then something like a Duplicolor Annodized red if you want bright red. I would rotate the pipe as you spray it from a 90degree angle (slowly spin the pipe).

I feel like Daredevil has a darker red.
I uses 4 drops of red pigment per 4 oz of liquid rubber and 1 drop of black per 4 oz liquid rubber for that darker red look.

Those look like they'll be pretty cool when they're done! I definitely agree that these may be iffy on whether they'd be allowed at a con, but I made them with the intention of being more of a display piece. Nothing can beat the feeling of that cold metal and the weight when you're holding it. That's also why I went with anodizing rather than painting, but I do also agree with you on it maybe needing to be a bit darker shade of red, I just used the dye that I had on hand. Maybe at some point I'll make a new set and look for a bit darker of a red dye.