Need help/suggestions how to make an ice block

Blackluc

Member
Hi,

I am looking for ideas how to make a "budget" version of an ice block to put a sword in it. This would be the inspiration :

1667686731165.png


As this particular one would cost about 400, I would like to make something similar myself. I know the logical option would be a mold and cast in solid resin, I could always to that, but any ideas what I should make the master of? I was also thinking of maybe making a stand out of wood for the sword and cover it with anything that doesnt have to be that solid but that would look like ice-ish. Anyway.. Totally open to any ideas or suggestions how to tackle this project! thank you!
 

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Well the cheapest way would be to vacu-form your ice block...if you have access to a vacu-form machine. You can make a cheapy home version for not too much money.
If you're going the sculpt, mold route, I would sculpt the original out of 4lb urethane foam or oil clay. Both of which could get expensive.
 
You could make it out of wood, then get it super smooth with putty and sanding. Paint it with pearl white and metallic blue. Then put on a heavy gloss coat of something like polyurethane or maybe a clear epoxy. That would be the cheapest way to gate a similar, budget, effect.

If you sculpted it, made a mold and cast it in clear resin it would end up costing A LOT. Also, the clear resin would have to be done in a pressure pot or it would have visible bubbles. If you've never done that before there would be a lot of trial an error with expensive materials. It would catch up to the $400 pretty quick.

So I would make it as I said above. Just my opinion, I'm sure you'll get lots of ideas.
 
Some plywood as a base. Some tinfoil loosely made into the shape, and a brick of clay to coat it and sculpt. Then some smooth-on quick drying silicone coatings and some plaster paris. Quickest and cheapest way I can think of.

Or fill a similar sized box with a can of expanding foam, and carve/paint. - worst case scenario, molding the foam sculpt!
 
Another cheap(ish) option is to create a rough form using chicken wire then cover it with something equally cheap like expanding foam or clay then carve and sand it to refine the shape and then paint. This is how Disney does a lot of their rock work in their parks and it would be much lighter and cheaper than trying to make it from a solid piece of material.
 
Keep in mind he want to support a sword. Vacu-form wouldn't be strong enough, unless it had a core. The same thing with chicken wire. They're good ideas, I just don't know if they'll support a sword (unless it's a foam sword).
 
Put 2 or 3 2x4s in it and you can stand on it.

The questionnis does it need to be cast or can you make it as a stand alone?
 
Another cheap(ish) option is to create a rough form using chicken wire then cover it with something equally cheap like expanding foam or clay then carve and sand it to refine the shape and then paint. This is how Disney does a lot of their rock work in their parks and it would be much lighter and cheaper than trying to make it from a solid piece of material.
Thats soooo old school!
 
Keep in mind he want to support a sword. Vacu-form wouldn't be strong enough, unless it had a core. The same thing with chicken wire. They're good ideas, I just don't know if they'll support a sword (unless it's a foam sword).
The solution to that is simple, put a PVC pipe or a plywood sheath in the middle for the sword to go in to or even a foam block at the bottom fo the tip go into to help support the sword. Besides, a properly made historical sword isn't that heavy, on average, historical swords weighed only between 2 - 3 pounds. With some material going around the outside, the chicken wire should be more than strong enough to support a 2 -3 pound sword.
 
I have to agree, a two part of epoxy (thinking smooth on) over the top of the painted form would give you a nice, shiny surface
 
I made the original Ice Shard for Blizzard. Things to keep in mind; the Frostmourn weighs 16 lbs. And, is top heavy. So whatever you make, you’ll need to get above the tipping point (google Ice Shard, and check out the white lighted ones with a deeper space between the ‘ice’ and the ‘fingers’; your example ain’t the original. It’s a knock off,) and see where the top ‘finger’ stops. Also, make the footprint fairly wide. You need that stability. Don’t want it tipping over on top of toddlers when they try to climb it.

Ok, how I made it. I borrowed a Frostmourn from Blizzard (well, EPIC Weapons,) and worked it down (stabbed it, lol,) into a 24” x 24” by 24” block of 2lb expanded polystyrene foam, (beer cooler foam) till the tip reached the floor. That actually held it up nicely. Then I started sculpting foam away. For inspo I looked at how the ice curled in leading towards the throne, and how the landscape looked. And kept everything to scale. After getting the shape I wanted I took it to a rapid prototyper and had them use my form to make a mold, then pour it using Crystal Clear resin from Rynolds. I had them make the walls at least 3/8” thick. Which also made the fingers solid. And more sturdy. I also had them mix a purple-to-teal flip flop fine glitter into the final prototype. That’s the one Blizzard approved, and for a while stood with the Frostmourn on display in their lobby. Each prototype cost about $50, and took days to cure. This was in 2009, so Lordt knows what it would cost now. Or what resin is available.

If you don’t care about the translucency, start with the 24” x 24” x 24” block of foam, stab your sword into it, and sculpt away. When you get to what you want, take at least 1/4” off all over, (you’ll lose the fingers, just replace with short lengths of curved coat hanger wire,) and glass it. Maybe buy surfboard repair kits or something off Amazon, and remember aromatics eat foam. May need to brush a layer of house paint over the foam first. But just lay that **** on. Let it kick off, and lay more. You can googs how to lay fiberglass if you need to. Rinse repeat till you’ve built the walls back out to the original look you want, and make them at least 1/4” deep. Before you sand anything with fiberglass in it, buy a cheap tyvak painter’s jumper, put on snug dr gloves, tape that to your suit, put on another pair, tape that on. Bandana your neck and lower face, stuff the bottom of your bandanas into your suit, and tape that down. Baby powder the crap out of everything; inside your suit, your joints, your neck, your face; and wear tight mask and close fitting safety glasses. Last time I had a job that included sanding fiberglass was in 2001. And I can still feel encapsulated glass fibers under the skin on the back of my hands. Like little BBs.

Once you get the surface to your liking, prime it with Veraprime or Kilz, and paint whatever color you want. I’m partial to the iridescents and flip-flops, and as mentioned, the real Shards were translucent with purple to teal shifts. I’d lay down a base of palest purple blue and top coat with a clear that has the color shift added. Basically, match the Litch King’s environment’s colors.

While laying down glass consider also laying in wires and LEDs for some subtle lighting. In the original Ice Shard it had a soft glow in the bottom with two lights pointing up the shaft. And the Ice Shard was made to be viewed in a 360° setting. No bad sides.

If you do decide to go with the clear resin, take it to a pro; a huge sign company, or a rapid prototyper, or, heck, a large format 3D printer. It might not cost as much as the store bought Shard, lol Good luck and I would love to see what you make!
 
I made the original Ice Shard for Blizzard. Things to keep in mind; the Frostmourn weighs 16 lbs. And, is top heavy. So whatever you make, you’ll need to get above the tipping point (google Ice Shard, and check out the white lighted ones with a deeper space between the ‘ice’ and the ‘fingers’; your example ain’t the original. It’s a knock off,) and see where the top ‘finger’ stops. Also, make the footprint fairly wide. You need that stability. Don’t want it tipping over on top of toddlers when they try to climb it.

Ok, how I made it. I borrowed a Frostmourn from Blizzard (well, EPIC Weapons,) and worked it down (stabbed it, lol,) into a 24” x 24” by 24” block of 2lb expanded polystyrene foam, (beer cooler foam) till the tip reached the floor. That actually held it up nicely. Then I started sculpting foam away. For inspo I looked at how the ice curled in leading towards the throne, and how the landscape looked. And kept everything to scale. After getting the shape I wanted I took it to a rapid prototyper and had them use my form to make a mold, then pour it using Crystal Clear resin from Rynolds. I had them make the walls at least 3/8” thick. Which also made the fingers solid. And more sturdy. I also had them mix a purple-to-teal flip flop fine glitter into the final prototype. That’s the one Blizzard approved, and for a while stood with the Frostmourn on display in their lobby. Each prototype cost about $50, and took days to cure. This was in 2009, so Lordt knows what it would cost now. Or what resin is available.

If you don’t care about the translucency, start with the 24” x 24” x 24” block of foam, stab your sword into it, and sculpt away. When you get to what you want, take at least 1/4” off all over, (you’ll lose the fingers, just replace with short lengths of curved coat hanger wire,) and glass it. Maybe buy surfboard repair kits or something off Amazon, and remember aromatics eat foam. May need to brush a layer of house paint over the foam first. But just lay that **** on. Let it kick off, and lay more. You can googs how to lay fiberglass if you need to. Rinse repeat till you’ve built the walls back out to the original look you want, and make them at least 1/4” deep. Before you sand anything with fiberglass in it, buy a cheap tyvak painter’s jumper, put on snug dr gloves, tape that to your suit, put on another pair, tape that on. Bandana your neck and lower face, stuff the bottom of your bandanas into your suit, and tape that down. Baby powder the crap out of everything; inside your suit, your joints, your neck, your face; and wear tight mask and close fitting safety glasses. Last time I had a job that included sanding fiberglass was in 2001. And I can still feel encapsulated glass fibers under the skin on the back of my hands. Like little BBs.

Once you get the surface to your liking, prime it with Veraprime or Kilz, and paint whatever color you want. I’m partial to the iridescents and flip-flops, and as mentioned, the real Shards were translucent with purple to teal shifts. I’d lay down a base of palest purple blue and top coat with a clear that has the color shift added. Basically, match the Litch King’s environment’s colors.

While laying down glass consider also laying in wires and LEDs for some subtle lighting. In the original Ice Shard it had a soft glow in the bottom with two lights pointing up the shaft. And the Ice Shard was made to be viewed in a 360° setting. No bad sides.

If you do decide to go with the clear resin, take it to a pro; a huge sign company, or a rapid prototyper, or, heck, a large format 3D printer. It might not cost as much as the store bought Shard, lol Good luck and I would love to see what you make!
Thanks for the tuto; really helpfull:cool::cool:(y)(y)
 

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