OasisSupernova
Sr Member
Looking at buying my first 3D printer and have no idea where to start. Trying to keep it under $400 if that's possible. Looking to make bigger props. Ot small figurines. Any help would be possible. Thank you.
Need help buying firat 3D printer. Not sure where to ask this. Hopefully im in the right spot.
- Thread starter OasisSupernova
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OasisSupernova
Sr Member
Thank you. Will do.
There are a few types of 3D printers: filament, often called FDM, and resin. FDM uses rolls of plastic filament, often PLA, ABS, or PETG. Resin printers use bottles of liquid resin. FDM prints usually are structurally stronger, but have prominent layer lines that you'd need to deal with in order to get a smooth surface. Resin printers have a much higher resolution that they're able to print at, virtually eliminating layer lines. Since the technology is a few years old now, resin printers have increased their build volume size substantially. The Elegoo Saturn 3 is a 12K resolution (that resolution is referring to the screen that the printer uses) printer with a very good-sized build volume. However, if you want to make larger props, you might want to go with an FDM printer, like the Elegoo Neptune 3.
I would recommend looking at YouTube to dive into the world of 3D printing. There is a lot to learn, and mistakes will be made along the way, but that's all just part of the process.
Good luck!
SB
I would recommend looking at YouTube to dive into the world of 3D printing. There is a lot to learn, and mistakes will be made along the way, but that's all just part of the process.
Good luck!
SB
I would offer that your goals of printing large props or small figurines is somewhat contradictory when choosing a 3D printer…
Reason being is a lot of large props could be done with an FDM printer. FDM printers are generally cheaper than their comparatively sized resin counterparts. However, FDM is much tougher to prep - i.e. more sanding! Some brands to look at would be Elegoo, AnyCubic, Creality, or Prusa.
For small figurines, I’d definitely recommend a resin printer. You can get some excellent details (there are 12k printers now!) that require minimal finishing work when compared to an FDM-printed piece. I’d recommend you look at Phrozen, AnyCubic, and Elegoo for resin printers.
Hope that helps get you started!
Good luck on your search!
Sean
Reason being is a lot of large props could be done with an FDM printer. FDM printers are generally cheaper than their comparatively sized resin counterparts. However, FDM is much tougher to prep - i.e. more sanding! Some brands to look at would be Elegoo, AnyCubic, Creality, or Prusa.
For small figurines, I’d definitely recommend a resin printer. You can get some excellent details (there are 12k printers now!) that require minimal finishing work when compared to an FDM-printed piece. I’d recommend you look at Phrozen, AnyCubic, and Elegoo for resin printers.
Hope that helps get you started!
Good luck on your search!
Sean
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OasisSupernova
Sr Member
Thank you.
OasisSupernova
Sr Member
Thank you.
I've owned several types of printers, and as mentioned by #masterjedi322 the usage really dictates the type of machine. For just getting into it and experimenting at around that price, I would look into something like the Creality Ender 5 or 5 plus. Creality has been around a relatively long time, has a great community, and the machines are proven. There are cheaper and faster machines out there, but the brand is established and not one of the 100+ fly by night outfits that have popped up over the last 5-10 years. Resin is amazing, but it is typically more expensive and can require more ventilation and equipment as well depending.
The 5+ is essentially the same printer as the 5, but has a much larger print area (350x350x400mm versus 220x220x300mm). Larger print area means more pieces (like helmets) can be printed in one piece rather than needing cutting and reassembling, and the price difference (I think $100) is a no-brainer for the convenience. The machines have heated beds, auto-leveling, and can be assembled in maybe an hour?
It is pushing your budget a little bit ($400 - $500 range if you find sales), but is worth it for the reliability and wealth of info out there. My workhorse 5 plus probably has 15000 hours on it, with total maintenance cost (including a new touch sensor) under $100. And 1 kilo rolls of PLA can be had for under $20
The 5+ is essentially the same printer as the 5, but has a much larger print area (350x350x400mm versus 220x220x300mm). Larger print area means more pieces (like helmets) can be printed in one piece rather than needing cutting and reassembling, and the price difference (I think $100) is a no-brainer for the convenience. The machines have heated beds, auto-leveling, and can be assembled in maybe an hour?
It is pushing your budget a little bit ($400 - $500 range if you find sales), but is worth it for the reliability and wealth of info out there. My workhorse 5 plus probably has 15000 hours on it, with total maintenance cost (including a new touch sensor) under $100. And 1 kilo rolls of PLA can be had for under $20
OasisSupernova
Sr Member
Thanks for all the info. Creality was the way I was leaning.
I‘d say printer location is going to be the biggest concern. You can get away with having an FDM printer printing PLA in the house somewhere if you’re running an air filter and don’t have kids or pets mucking about. You’ll still want a vent mask when you’re sanding.
A large resin printer is my preference, but requires being someplace with both good ventilation and consistent cleanup routines. Even the “water rinse“ resins are incredibly toxic in their uncured form, so you have to be diligent in your cleanup of things like used paper towels, et cetera. It’s not something where you can just clean up and throw it in the trash like PLA or ABS.
I have both an elegoo Saturn 2 and a Prusa 3s+. With a good resin mix, it’s stronger and more flexible than a standard PLA/ABS FDM print and not susceptible to warping in a hot car like FDM (important in central Texas). No matter which way you go with it, the most import thing is familiarizing yourself with how your chosen plastic works. As an example, I recently printed a model of a jedi training remote base (hemispheres with panels but no greeblies). V1 took a full day of cleanup to get ready to paint. V2 only took about an hour, and the difference was printing orientation and improved support structures.
A large resin printer is my preference, but requires being someplace with both good ventilation and consistent cleanup routines. Even the “water rinse“ resins are incredibly toxic in their uncured form, so you have to be diligent in your cleanup of things like used paper towels, et cetera. It’s not something where you can just clean up and throw it in the trash like PLA or ABS.
I have both an elegoo Saturn 2 and a Prusa 3s+. With a good resin mix, it’s stronger and more flexible than a standard PLA/ABS FDM print and not susceptible to warping in a hot car like FDM (important in central Texas). No matter which way you go with it, the most import thing is familiarizing yourself with how your chosen plastic works. As an example, I recently printed a model of a jedi training remote base (hemispheres with panels but no greeblies). V1 took a full day of cleanup to get ready to paint. V2 only took about an hour, and the difference was printing orientation and improved support structures.
OasisSupernova
Sr Member
So much great information. I have a dedicated room for printing and the garage for sanding, etc... animals are locked out of the basement. Greatly appreciated.
A1770
New Member
For large props choose FDM. As laellee mentioned the Ender 5 is a good starting point. Cheap relatively good and it has a decent building volume plus the build plate only moving on the Z axis. Not a flawless one, so you need to thinkering a bit sometimes. It has a large user group and you can find a bunch of tuning parts on the net.
I replaced the original extruder to a Voron Afterburner and the hotend but its not neccasary. Another good upgrade is using linear rails.
You can find stl for all the need parts.
I replaced the original extruder to a Voron Afterburner and the hotend but its not neccasary. Another good upgrade is using linear rails.
You can find stl for all the need parts.
OasisSupernova
Sr Member
Yeah thats pretty much the one I'm looking at now. Thank you for responding.
If there’s a MicroCenter near you, they often run specials on the Ender 3 for $99.
It’s a great, entry-level FDM printer that will get you going without breaking the bank.
Sean
It’s a great, entry-level FDM printer that will get you going without breaking the bank.
Sean
OasisSupernova
Sr Member
Hmm. Never heard of a micro center. Thanks for the info.
On the FDM route - I'd recommend giving the Bambu Labs P1S a look. It is in the top-end of the beginner-priced options but it also gives you a clear upgrade path.
My very first 3d printer was an Ultimaker 3. I'm not a patient person and wanted something that would work out of the box. It was really quite overpriced but also really capable. But slow.... so very slow. When the Bambu X1C started shipping I picked one up and ended up selling my Ultimaker within about a week. I've printed more with the X1C in 6 months that I did with my Ultimaker in 3 years. Its just a really accessible, fast and capable FDM setup.
Over the summer, my teenager spent her fast-food-job earnings on her own Bambu P1P and she's constantly making all sorts of things with it.
(Fidget Toys, Interior Car Parts, School Projects, etc)
Later, I upgraded her P1P with a P1S kit (enclosure, chamber fan, etc) and that was the point where Bambu Labs earned me as a repeat customer The fact that they offered a reasonably priced in-place upgrade kit for her other printer. I started to feel my project backlog growing so I recently bought another Bambu P1S for longer single-material prints. It was $699 I believe.
Once you are ready for multi-material printing, you can add AMS to it later for $350ish.
.. and I don't think you are in risk of it being made obsolete within a year. I believe their next printer will essentially be the X1C but with a slightly larger vertical build volume.
So, having 3 Bambu Labs printers and an Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra, I feel pretty confident recommending the P1S. I've only printed a few things on the Saturn Resin printer, so too early for me to say much on that one.
My very first 3d printer was an Ultimaker 3. I'm not a patient person and wanted something that would work out of the box. It was really quite overpriced but also really capable. But slow.... so very slow. When the Bambu X1C started shipping I picked one up and ended up selling my Ultimaker within about a week. I've printed more with the X1C in 6 months that I did with my Ultimaker in 3 years. Its just a really accessible, fast and capable FDM setup.
Over the summer, my teenager spent her fast-food-job earnings on her own Bambu P1P and she's constantly making all sorts of things with it.
(Fidget Toys, Interior Car Parts, School Projects, etc)
Later, I upgraded her P1P with a P1S kit (enclosure, chamber fan, etc) and that was the point where Bambu Labs earned me as a repeat customer The fact that they offered a reasonably priced in-place upgrade kit for her other printer. I started to feel my project backlog growing so I recently bought another Bambu P1S for longer single-material prints. It was $699 I believe.
Once you are ready for multi-material printing, you can add AMS to it later for $350ish.
.. and I don't think you are in risk of it being made obsolete within a year. I believe their next printer will essentially be the X1C but with a slightly larger vertical build volume.
So, having 3 Bambu Labs printers and an Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra, I feel pretty confident recommending the P1S. I've only printed a few things on the Saturn Resin printer, so too early for me to say much on that one.
OasisSupernova
Sr Member
Awesome. Thank you. Been seeing these online. I'll look into them.
I had two different Anycubic and personally had problems so I returned them. I bought a Creality Ender 3 S1 and love it. It had auto-leveling bed but also you can do it manually. I print everyday for the past 8 months so I'm no expert but I really like the Ender 3 S1 and its easy to work on.
OasisSupernova
Sr Member
Thank you.
