MY SIDKIT BLADE RUNNER BLASTER...
- Thread starter IGNITERS
- Start date
The gun looks good but you got the shape of my hand all wrong.
franz bolo
Sr Member
Looks Good..
FB
FB
CSMacLaren
Sr Member
Is that paint on the wood grip? It looks like real burl in the wood, judging from the photo. Nice..
well, I feel kinda lazy here ,what I did was find a switch at the local electronics supply house and see-mented it to the side (this one doesn't function) and the working one is still on the clip.
Really what I should have done and probably will still do is drill out that area and get a working switch in the propper location .I am no tessla and it was really my first attempt with a soldering iron....
I filled the hole in the bottom of the clip and use a "super magnet " to hold it on as well as installing the 5th bulb,it actually went together quite easily after the sanding polishing and blueing ...MAN THAT THING IS HEAVY.
( oh thats clear amber grips like the original ,probably thrown by the paint and blueing underneath)
Really what I should have done and probably will still do is drill out that area and get a working switch in the propper location .I am no tessla and it was really my first attempt with a soldering iron....
I filled the hole in the bottom of the clip and use a "super magnet " to hold it on as well as installing the 5th bulb,it actually went together quite easily after the sanding polishing and blueing ...MAN THAT THING IS HEAVY.
( oh thats clear amber grips like the original ,probably thrown by the paint and blueing underneath)
I was just kidding... the gun does look killer. 
PHArchivist
Master Member
Nice work.
Prop looks fantastic. Congratulations. For those who asked about the grips - In my experience, all of the BR blaster repplicas produced to date have had grips that were too short (like half an inch too short, or thereabouts). I believe this is something that was being rectified for the latest RAC model, but previous RAC's, SidKits, Offworld, etc. had grips that were too small. For some reason, the grips on the Hartford blasters seem a little better proportioned, which is odd given that they're based on an RAC.
In any case, the buildup here looks brilliant. Really, really good job. How did you get the SidKits pot metal (pewter?) to take color that well? :eek
In any case, the buildup here looks brilliant. Really, really good job. How did you get the SidKits pot metal (pewter?) to take color that well? :eek
androidandy
Sr Member
Hartford may have corrected their grips in later models, but I was informed that the earlyier versions were in fact shorter than the RAC versions. Noeland did a comparison on the RPF here...
http://www.therpf.com/index.php?showtopic=117844&st=0
Beautiful work Igniters. That gun is awsome looking. I am so very tempted to get one.
http://www.therpf.com/index.php?showtopic=117844&st=0
Beautiful work Igniters. That gun is awsome looking. I am so very tempted to get one.
Igniters
Looks fantastic man. :eek
I have one of these arm-buster cannons to, but my progress has petered-out due to business distractions.
This fine example of what's possible has rekindled my interest.
Thanks for sharing. let's see more pix please.
One question- What did you use to blue the metal?
Once again- nicely done.
Thanx
Looks fantastic man. :eek
I have one of these arm-buster cannons to, but my progress has petered-out due to business distractions.
This fine example of what's possible has rekindled my interest.
Thanks for sharing. let's see more pix please.
One question- What did you use to blue the metal?
Once again- nicely done.
Thanx
Thank you for all the encouraging words....The big question seems to be how I got the finish,well here is an explanation.
After practicing on some tattoo machine frames I was dressing up and talking to an artist that also works with metal sculpture....I have a small process I went through.
- I figured gun metal is probably polished before its final finish due to tolerances and durability so all the parts on the kit that were metal ( everything) I wet sanded to an even smooth finish
- "SUPER BLUE" gun blueing (I am sure most blueing is the same) was applied in stages depending on how dark the end result required,on the cylinder and barrel I applied 2 or 3 coats and wiped wuith a rag between to even the finish and wipe of the rust brown residue left from blueing
- fine finishing or lightining was then done with steel wool ( comes in different coarseness,softer than sos pad) then and this may or may not be a surprise..."BLACK SHOE POLISH"....mmmmmm love that smell .....
the shoe polish gives the metal a rich smooth shine, finish , and seal without staining and helps adhere the blueing to the metal so it doesn't wear off from regular handeling
- for the painted parts I first scuffed them with a soft sandpaper and applied 2 coats of black primer,then a couple coats of "bumper black"(which is satin strait outta the can and a little less brittle than regular paint) then a light coat of clear gloss...
- now for the light rust you have two options,well 3 if one of then is skip it ,but you can either go to micheals craft shop and get the 13 dollar liquid that rusts metal and take your chances with that or just buy some rust brown testors paint and a piece of pot scrubber and add less or more as you wish with dabbing a stipple effect...you can also with a needle or pin score the metal so the paint filles the pinholes like attacking rust (this is what I did ) takes alot of time but looks really cool ...
well thats my secrets for this kit ....it was worth it if you really dig the way it turned out,thank you again .
[attachmentid=13002]here is more photos.....
After practicing on some tattoo machine frames I was dressing up and talking to an artist that also works with metal sculpture....I have a small process I went through.
- I figured gun metal is probably polished before its final finish due to tolerances and durability so all the parts on the kit that were metal ( everything) I wet sanded to an even smooth finish
- "SUPER BLUE" gun blueing (I am sure most blueing is the same) was applied in stages depending on how dark the end result required,on the cylinder and barrel I applied 2 or 3 coats and wiped wuith a rag between to even the finish and wipe of the rust brown residue left from blueing
- fine finishing or lightining was then done with steel wool ( comes in different coarseness,softer than sos pad) then and this may or may not be a surprise..."BLACK SHOE POLISH"....mmmmmm love that smell .....
the shoe polish gives the metal a rich smooth shine, finish , and seal without staining and helps adhere the blueing to the metal so it doesn't wear off from regular handeling
- for the painted parts I first scuffed them with a soft sandpaper and applied 2 coats of black primer,then a couple coats of "bumper black"(which is satin strait outta the can and a little less brittle than regular paint) then a light coat of clear gloss...
- now for the light rust you have two options,well 3 if one of then is skip it ,but you can either go to micheals craft shop and get the 13 dollar liquid that rusts metal and take your chances with that or just buy some rust brown testors paint and a piece of pot scrubber and add less or more as you wish with dabbing a stipple effect...you can also with a needle or pin score the metal so the paint filles the pinholes like attacking rust (this is what I did ) takes alot of time but looks really cool ...
well thats my secrets for this kit ....it was worth it if you really dig the way it turned out,thank you again .
[attachmentid=13002]here is more photos.....
