darth_daniel
Sr Member
Guess it´s time to invent a "dust booth" - like a spray booth, which can apply the dust of 30 years in just 30 minutes! :lol
My Red Y (aka lazybones build) - some tips for the slack modeler
- Thread starter Nwerke
- Start date
Guess it´s time to invent a "dust booth" - like a spray booth, which can apply the dust of 30 years in just 30 minutes! :lol
jedimaster
Sr Member
I got a good source for 30 years of dust.
jedimaster
Sr Member
Both, gotta separate the cobwebs from the dust in my wallet first and you need to get rid of the Bats and tumbleweed..
Colin Droidmilk
Sr Member
But then this thread's for dossers and lightweights like me, not swots like you, lol....
Ah, "that's what she said" is generally a US version of "as the actress said to the bishop" - a gag twisting the meaning of the sentence it follows, not a slam on the quality of content. 
I AM trying to be pretty basic here though, yeah. I figure that out of the fifty-odd of us who have this kit there's gotta be a few folk who haven't tackled something like this before. Right?
Did nothing on the Y this weekend, because MY BLACK PEARL ARRIVED FROM RUSSIA WOOHOO. Oh also and some huge great big Stargate thing and the guys were over yesterday and I had painters at my mum's place and I was cleaning up the shed and, um, stuff.
I did nothing on the Black Pearl either. I'm not sure I should. I was expecting it to be repackaged but it is the entire thing, with the original figurehead, Disney/POTC box, everything. Is it a collector's item? :lol
I WILL DO THE NECK MOD TOMORROW AND POST PICS. (repeats to self fifty times under his breath)
I AM trying to be pretty basic here though, yeah. I figure that out of the fifty-odd of us who have this kit there's gotta be a few folk who haven't tackled something like this before. Right?
Did nothing on the Y this weekend, because MY BLACK PEARL ARRIVED FROM RUSSIA WOOHOO. Oh also and some huge great big Stargate thing and the guys were over yesterday and I had painters at my mum's place and I was cleaning up the shed and, um, stuff.
I did nothing on the Black Pearl either. I'm not sure I should. I was expecting it to be repackaged but it is the entire thing, with the original figurehead, Disney/POTC box, everything. Is it a collector's item? :lol
I WILL DO THE NECK MOD TOMORROW AND POST PICS. (repeats to self fifty times under his breath)
Colin Droidmilk
Sr Member
Me, I tried correcting the distortion on the cans with hot water, but to no avail, gave up and just ended sticking ruddy great shims in at the rear end of each can. But it came out just fine. Really happy with the result. Did tons of checking first with Tee substitutes (brass rod) to check that the result would give me perfectly parallel tee strip alignment all the way round. It did, so I thought, right sod this dicking about with hardryers and hot water, I'm just gonna glue shims in. Then had an orgasmic time sticking the L'eggs on. Btw the testing of the rod without the shims revealed a horrendous taper on the starboard cylinder.
I'm also seriously thinking now about ditching the cockpit interior and going blank, not so much for authenticity, but just because the window shadows somehow look more pleasing this way. The cockpit detailing sort of makes the run of windows harder to read... and I don't want no harder-to-read run of windows.
About the neck mod, I want a slacker's option, too, eh? Don't tell me I need a drill press, lol...
I'm also seriously thinking now about ditching the cockpit interior and going blank, not so much for authenticity, but just because the window shadows somehow look more pleasing this way. The cockpit detailing sort of makes the run of windows harder to read... and I don't want no harder-to-read run of windows.
About the neck mod, I want a slacker's option, too, eh? Don't tell me I need a drill press, lol...
Steve, do you mean, your starboard can, tapered, toward the back? If so, yeah i had the same problem, by as much as 5mm, just to ask WHY?
I sanded out the front of the can, and took the ellipse out fully, this brought the balance to 1mm, maybe a tad under, which i think i can live with, but i cant figure how this has happened, were they sanded flat while making the master, as thats two kits, both with tapered starboard cans?
Also NOT putting a cockpit in, no way.......does look better without, i love the shape of the side windows on this model with there lozenged profile, the cockpit interior ruins that lol.
lee
I sanded out the front of the can, and took the ellipse out fully, this brought the balance to 1mm, maybe a tad under, which i think i can live with, but i cant figure how this has happened, were they sanded flat while making the master, as thats two kits, both with tapered starboard cans?
Also NOT putting a cockpit in, no way.......does look better without, i love the shape of the side windows on this model with there lozenged profile, the cockpit interior ruins that lol.
lee
Hey Guys, i just checked the pattern for the Sat v cans and yep, there is a bit of a taper, just like Lee said it seems that the problem is that the front is a bit "proud" As far as i can tell these were not sanded at all, just the tabs cut off, meaning that the naked cans just had the kit parts and mounting disks attached, so the issue may be in the donor kit parts. I don't know if it's something that occurs in all Sat V kits, my guess is not, but it may occur in some. It's not something John would notice in building the pattern because the parts don't show the issue until full assembly.
I will tell you that i need to cast these parts with a small amount of flash around the edges as well, if i don't they are so thin the just get obliterated if i over compress the mold. It's nothing that will yield a 5 mm difference on one end or another as it is an even distribution and is a very thin amount, like .005. It's actually likely keeping the part closer to the original thickness when taking mold compression and shrinkage into account. It does mean that some flat sanding is required on the bottoms.
Resin is a harsh mistress and we are still need to figure out the happy medium between keeping the original kit parts intact and engineering with casting in mind. If too much material is added to strengthen the parts it throws off the scale of the parts, too little and we wind up with some of the issues here.
mike
I will tell you that i need to cast these parts with a small amount of flash around the edges as well, if i don't they are so thin the just get obliterated if i over compress the mold. It's nothing that will yield a 5 mm difference on one end or another as it is an even distribution and is a very thin amount, like .005. It's actually likely keeping the part closer to the original thickness when taking mold compression and shrinkage into account. It does mean that some flat sanding is required on the bottoms.
Resin is a harsh mistress and we are still need to figure out the happy medium between keeping the original kit parts intact and engineering with casting in mind. If too much material is added to strengthen the parts it throws off the scale of the parts, too little and we wind up with some of the issues here.
mike
jedimaster
Sr Member
No cockpit and added the messer guns for mine. I mean, if ya gonna do it right.....right?
Oh yeah, im putting those 109 guns on for sure, glad i have one stashed away.
Mike, thanks for the chime, i know its not the casting, the taper/warp must be in the donor, if he's using a vintage V, then id bet that is the deal, ive seen many parts out of shape.
Im pretty sure ive adjusted now, may have to shim as Jason did, if all else fails, looks like ill have to build new engine patterns from my Saturns.....joy joy!
Anybody got a kit ID map for the engines just in case?
lee
Likely, if i hold the front of the cans tight together the back has a gap, again naturally occurring the the donor part. I have to look back to the instructions, but do i remember J needing to sand the front as well just to get the Leggs to fit correctly? That would support the front of the cans being too proud right?
mike
mike
jedimaster
Sr Member
Anyone know where I can get tiny black triangle decals for my other Y build. Buffered if I'm gonna paint em on.
Just checked Mike, J had to shim the front for the L'eggs fitment, no big dealy.
TBH, its not that bad at all, with CAREFUL manipulation with a hairdryer, the cans can be tweaked almost back to how they should be buddy.
Originally i was pretty terrified, starboard was out quite a bit lol, ill get to the other can soon.
Id not use hot water for this, its harder to keep it all under control IMO, i only use hot water for small areas with a little kink or what not.
lee
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