My Red Y (aka lazybones build) - some tips for the slack modeler

CT, I'm really liking keeping the engines separate. If you're not making wing mounts, then it makes life so easy. :)

I know that whole OCD compulsion thing backwards, FWIW. I've had to work really hard on making myself less picky and more sloppy. I think I may have overdone it TBH. :lol
 
jedimaster said:
Its a *****! Can't pour resin, can't pour silicon, can't lay Fibreglass, can't paint, just too bloody hot!! Dammit!!!! How hot I hear you ask? Real hot, damn Hot . It's so ****ing hot there is sweat dripping from my Balls like a leaking tap. That's how ****ing hot it is. I could fry an egg on the hood of my car right now.
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What a big girls blouse I have been driving around all day and didn't even have the aircon on just had the window down and 80km
 
He's a Pom. What can you expect? :D

He never does any of those things, anyway. Just shows up, smokes a cigar and yaks worse than I do. :p :lol :p
 
ROFLMAO!!!!!! :lol

Sucks to be you, my man. Sucks to be you. :p

Seriously, I do sympathise. Not fun weather for your line of work IN ANY WAY.
 
Nwerke said:
He's a Pom. What can you expect? :D

He never does any of those things, anyway. Just shows up, smokes a cigar and yaks worse than I do. :p :lol :p
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Nice one taffy, I seem to remember the only completed model out of thousands in your shed is a superfortress / stratofortress whatever, covered in thirty years of dust. So by my reckoning you must have been what ? 25 when you built that? Man the beatles were still together the last time you finished a kit.
 
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...I'm hurt now. I can't even top that, I'm just not nasty enough. I'm just going to cry quietly into my glass of warm milk, instead. There. Are you happy?
 
Hahahahaha... he had you there, son, ha ha... is that true then Simon, only a superfortress in the last 20 years?

It's bloody freezing here... too cold to spray primer, hands too numb to draw.... but it's gonna get to 40 in the summer so thank ****** for you lot in Oz to tell us about the cockpit droop. Otherwise coulda glued mine on and then been really sorry come June!

Thanks for the shroud guidance, fellows. The beauty of this kit is that even thrown together craply - as my shrouds and brackets are in their current tacked-in dry fit state - it still looks absolutely fantastic.

I haven't glued my cylinders yet, everything's held together with elastic bands. But I'm thanking the Lord for the bad fit of the too-large interior Saturn piece. It will 'correct' the weird flattened rear ends of my cylinders. The fronts are circular, but the rears are definite ellipses. You can even see (I think, lol) a faint taper on the cylinders in the profile view, they get thinner toward the end. Weird thing is I could swear this distortion wasn't there before I washed them...
 
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Nope, I've completed maybe a dozen or two, counting paper models, ha ha. Everything that's finished has been put away due to lack of display space, and mostly needs repairs too due to moves and storage rearrangements. So you could say my kits have been rekitted. :( That's apart from the several figures and droids which went missing from a shop display. :angry

Oh, it's actually a B-36, by the way. :p
 
Colin, well, I haven't washed my pieces mate and I have the elliptical shape too. Good to know I'm not the only one. The bad news: the Saturn cone DIDN'T correct this. The good news is that with the T-strips applied, it's so bloody hard to notice you might as well not worry. However I have a mod in mind to address this anyway - stay tuned...for cooler weather that is. Too damn hot again today.

Regarding washing, another lazybones tip: do it AFTER your main subassemblies are glued (sanding the gluing surfaces lightly will suffice) but BEFORE you apply too many fragile greeblies. You'll be handling the thing like crazy up until then anyway and unless you're a smartypants who uses gloves, you'll cover it in oily ickiness from your hands.

Might as well do the washing as late as practicable, or so it seems to me!
 
I thought you said you had the elliptical thing at both ends...? Mine's only at the back, which as I say seems to be giving a slight taper to the profile view of the engines, and if the tees are going to project that taper backwards over half a foot then that's not gonna look good (waiting for the tees still). Weird thing is I would definitely have groaned the minute I unboxed it if the flattened ends had been present then...wondering if I washed them too warm then rinsed them too cold or something...but OTOH there's that big wall/bulkhead there, I don't see how that could've changed shape...As for the interior Sat part, well in my case, it does help force the opening out into something more properly circular...

Anyway, people like pics in these threads so here's a few I took over the last fortnight... dig how the cylinders without their domes look like cores of Arthur C. Clarke space stations!
 
I'm afraid the hot washing warped the engine cans, I did the same thing but it was not as extreme. Easy fix though. Get a compass and thickish box cardboard and draw and cut several circles out that matches the unwarped end of the engines. As you have not yet glued the two together the next bit should be easy. Push in the cardboard templates, then with a hairdryer or fan heat ,gently warm the most warped side of the engines until they regain their circular shape. BE WARNED, the resin is thin because thats how it is on the original engines and it does NOT take too much warmth to start the resin to soften. Rather than use my finger tips to apply pressure I rolled the edges of the warped engines on a table top gently until they were perfectly circular again. Took about ten minutes until I was happy with it. Alternatively, use very warm water and cut plastic circles. I usually also have a bowl of cold water to dunk in and set the remolded part quickly. I did that with the Tie Interceptor and got some of the best fits I 've ever had.
 
Mine are the same at the back of the can. A VERY slight pinch puts them right though, so a bit of warmth and i can fix that no worries, its the friggin' twist in both cans thats gonna tick me right off, that'll take some persuading, but, ive been there before with warped resin, and its pretty easy, just time consuming.

lee
 
Hoo, a twist eh Lee? I didn't get one of those.

Steve, no mate I have the ellipse at the back only. I'm really not worrying about or even noticing any concomitant problem with the t-strips. :)
 
Managed to pull the ellipse out with s hairdryer, and a can of primer that fitted snug inside the saturn, sorted.

Martyn, ill keep the twist to myself then, everyones is gonna want one, think ill just lay it on the glass board warm amd weight it.

Thing is, its bugging me now, so, im going to have to steal an hour this weekend to sort it. This means, itll begin as a build lol, i swear Mike did it on purpose to catch me out as a slacker :lol

Lee
 
Tape the engine, to the can buddy, think its a 400ml, the big ones anyways lol.
Once taped, zap some warmth, leave for about 10 mins, huzzah, perfect rounds again.

lee
 
Nwerke said:
Hoo, a twist eh Lee? I didn't get one of those.

Steve, no mate I have the ellipse at the back only. I'm really not worrying about or even noticing any concomitant problem with the t-strips. :)
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Cool... I might see if I can get away with it, then. Don't really fancy sticking the hairdryer to it - I'm timid that way, I can just see me making a hash of it and melting the whole bloody thing, lol...

Ralphee, so you have a twist, eh? Here's another quirk - my starboard top cylinder half is now 2mm longer than the lower half, but only on one side, again presumably an effect of the washing ... Luckily mismatches like this don't really bug me too much!

An idiot priming question for you chaps...this is the first model I've done with so much recessed detailing. I primed my cockpit interior the other day, and was buggered if I could cover the deeply recessed detailed areas without also building up a much too thick layer on the other, exposed, surfaces. Since the whole model consists of such recesses, and even partly covered-over channels and grooves (like the neck sidepieces) I'm wondering how to proceed here...how do you guys do it, eh?
 
What primer do you use Colin? There is a very good Tamiya grey fine primer but I had same good experience with the Valejo primer.

Normally you should not try to cover everything in one coat. Apply a thin coat at a time and keep your distance with the can when you do that. It shouldnt be a problem.


Kostas
 
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