jedimaster
Sr Member
Yeah, what Kostas said I use the tamiya, good stuff. Also Mr surfacer, but that's way more expensive.
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My Red Y (aka lazybones build) - some tips for the slack modeler
- Thread starter Nwerke
- Start date
I've never tried Mr. Surfacer but have a can of it sitting by the Y waiting for the weekend. I really, really, really like that super-smooth rattlecan grey primer that Testors used to make. Haven't seen it for a while, do they still make that?
That stuff was like magic, I used to use it on masters for moulding and it made them look like I actually knew what I was doing.
Steve, you won't melt anything on this model. It's polyurethane resin; it'd burn (down, fall over and THEN sink into the swamp) before it'd melt. The worst risk is making it too floppy and having it set even more out of shape, but that's curable too, the stuff has a memory.
I'd say just dunk the part in hot water. Its memory will return it to the right shape most likely, and if not, form it up as recommended by the guys, above, soak it in the hot water for a minute then whip it out and and dunk it into COLD water.
You basically can't go too badly wrong here. It is thin resin though and when soft will be less tear-resistant too. Take a little care and you'll be fine.
That stuff was like magic, I used to use it on masters for moulding and it made them look like I actually knew what I was doing.
Steve, you won't melt anything on this model. It's polyurethane resin; it'd burn (down, fall over and THEN sink into the swamp) before it'd melt. The worst risk is making it too floppy and having it set even more out of shape, but that's curable too, the stuff has a memory.
I'd say just dunk the part in hot water. Its memory will return it to the right shape most likely, and if not, form it up as recommended by the guys, above, soak it in the hot water for a minute then whip it out and and dunk it into COLD water.
You basically can't go too badly wrong here. It is thin resin though and when soft will be less tear-resistant too. Take a little care and you'll be fine.
jedimaster
Sr Member
Ive used Auto primers for over 10 years, over time they just get better and better, Halfords (im back on that brand right now) and UPOL....they finish perfectly, are hardwearing, and i think work out cheaper than buying those little girlie tins Simon :lol.
I do however have a couple of the Tamiya now, thought id try it......is it really that good?
Ive always found its not the primer though, its the application, warm it, take your time, light passes blah blah, piece o' cake.
lee
I do however have a couple of the Tamiya now, thought id try it......is it really that good?
Ive always found its not the primer though, its the application, warm it, take your time, light passes blah blah, piece o' cake.
lee
Colin Droidmilk
Sr Member
I use Mr. Resin Surface Primer. Went on really nicely on my V3. No prob with the stuff itself, just how to get it deep inside these recesses. But y'all reckon lots of light passes'll get it in all the nooks and crannies eventually. OK, right, ta.
Martyn, I meant 'melt' figuratively, like it'd go all floppy and then set even worse, or yeah, even burn, knowing me....
But hot water, yes. I did that for a warped can on my V3. Which you showed me how to do when I was just a baby SSer, d'ye remember? Shoulda thunk of that before. Especially since that's how it got distorted in the first place.
Martyn, I meant 'melt' figuratively, like it'd go all floppy and then set even worse, or yeah, even burn, knowing me....
But hot water, yes. I did that for a warped can on my V3. Which you showed me how to do when I was just a baby SSer, d'ye remember? Shoulda thunk of that before. Especially since that's how it got distorted in the first place.
Man i remember my first Salzo X V1, my first resin kit, i hot dipped the canopy lol, it ended up like a figure of eight, no i really mean it, the joy of resin in, it does have a memory, Martyn is so spot on there, bout an hour of pleading, i got it back to its correct profile.
Steve, for real undercut stuff, really pass over it, bout 12" away, dont be too worried on a heavier pass, more so, worry more on hovering over one area too much, as long as you pass over, itll prime up like butter, which is another trade secret, i mix butter in mine :lol.
lee
Steve, for real undercut stuff, really pass over it, bout 12" away, dont be too worried on a heavier pass, more so, worry more on hovering over one area too much, as long as you pass over, itll prime up like butter, which is another trade secret, i mix butter in mine :lol.
lee
darth_daniel
Sr Member
My problem with priming is the following: The first light coat goes on a bit dusty, especially on surfaces "parallel" to the spray direction, so there´s a very light grainy and dusty texture. On the second pass, the new layer seems to accumulate on the grains and makes it even worse with every further coat. Do I simply use a bad primer or the wrong temperature or distance and has anyone else encountered this?
jedimaster
Sr Member
Stanbridges stock it. It does go on really nice but seems to take ages to dry. Having said that , the model tends to need less prep with the testors before painting.
Id say your too far away on your passes, dont be scared to get up close, just make sure you control it, hell i get as close as 6" at times.
Warm the can, shake it to hell, and, dont spray in HOT temps, itll be dry as it hits the target causing your rough texture!
Lee
jedimaster
Sr Member
Steve, if your worried about building up to much primer in there you can always brush the primer on in that area. Get some of this.
darth_daniel
Sr Member
You could be right about the heat as I usually spray primer outside in summer, thanks for the advice! (I´ll better go and spray some primer right now... it´s got -13°C! :lol)
Your primer is drying too much before hitting the surface, as Lee has mentioned. You definitely want a good balance between warm paint and air that's not *too* warm (if your paint is too cold it will go on wetter, but you'll get an "orange peel" finish effect instead.)
I'm not such a big fan of the Tamiya primer for this same reason. It seems to dry faster than other primers; this seems to happen across a much wider range of ambient temperatures too. Result; furry surfaces more often than with Testors, or with auto primers (Lee is right about those too - they're great.) It's also a flatter finish than I really like with a primer, I like at least a little bit of sheen, it makes detecting flaws much easier.
Yowch! Warm the can before you start painting. A few minutes in a bowl of warm water should do it.
darth_daniel
Sr Member
No way, I´ll wait until spring! :lol Haven´t got anything in the primer stage right now anyway.
What kind of auto primers do you guys use? I used Duplicolor for a long time, it´s a good primer once it´s down on the model but it´s the worst in creating this "dust effect" - it seems to dry very quickly. I´ll give it one last try and really put the can into warm water before spraying.
darth_daniel
Sr Member
Hm okay, I only know Vallejo´s clear coats from the can and they´re the best I´ve ever used, maybe I´ll have to give their primers a try as well. They´re not that easy to get for me though.
Lately I use a primer by "Berner", it´s an awesome primer but I have to drive 45 minutes to purchase it and it´s only available in black or white, not grey as I´d like. The white one isn´t as good as the black one though.
Colin Droidmilk
Sr Member
Steve, if your worried about building up to much primer in there you can always brush the primer on in that area. Get some of this.
I had thought of brushing in there, but didn't mention it - afraid you'd all laugh at me, lol! Great, I'll check the LHs for that stuff you got there.
jedimaster
Sr Member
All too often people "idealize" their builds. Now don't get me wrong some fantastic work is done here , but if your trying to replicate an ILM Bird , they are actually quite simple and straight forward and quite often rough as guts. For example some of the castings on ILM Models are shocking and full of air bubbles. Rubbish by today's standards.
I guess what I'm saying is don't be to finicky over little things like Priming every nook and cranny on the instrument panel. It was just painted black anyhow and now sits under 30 years of dust. That's the look I'm after anyway.
I guess what I'm saying is don't be to finicky over little things like Priming every nook and cranny on the instrument panel. It was just painted black anyhow and now sits under 30 years of dust. That's the look I'm after anyway.
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