My Celtic Predator Wip: Pic Heavy (Updated Post #100)
- Thread starter fastburst
- Start date
biohunter76
Sr Member
How did I miss this thread?! Kick ass all they way bud!
fastburst
Active Member
I haven't been active very much lately for some reason I haven't gotten any notifications on replies with the new look and feel. I am however working on my skin and other pieces so to answer your question I will be doing A LOT of updates in the next few days.
thats an awesome wristblade A+
Thanks Brotha!
The Celtic I actually ordered I can't remember where or from whom, but its a fiber resin and I had to do all the details and cut outs etc. I was thinking of making a tutorial on it however I didn't take very many pics while I was doing the mask. If you have any questions feel free to ask.
Thanks Vin!, I got everything from you on it. It was a little difficult since you didn't have a template for it, and it was alot of trial and error but I got it mostly nailed down by referencing your pics plus I went with Foamies instead so that was interesting itself lol. Never the less I couldn't have done it without your help so thank you!
Thanks Brotha, I don't know one of those rare jewels lol
I find myself doing the same thing LOL trying to catch up!
I did the same thing and after talking with Elkman (Todd). That wasn't something that would work, you can get all the motors you want but what you really need is a gearbox rig that's what truly does the work and forces everything to move with little efforts. My blades are pretty heavy as is, but I used a High Power High Speed Gear box and it moves them with little effort. I had a 25,000 rpm motor and it still wouldn't move them until I went with the gear box.
Tamiya gearbox makes great inexpensive gear boxes most hobby shops can get them or find them online fairly cheap I order one today actually for about $12 from Servocity.com I also order 2-48pin gears and a 2-48pin gear rack. All in all it runs about $45 after shipping for all the parts needed to make the wristblades motorized.
Hope this helps and I will be uploading some of the Skin Progress, Feet Armor, and everything here over the next few days. I just completed the Duck Tape Dummy last night and I just completed that with pics that I will upload maybe lol
- James
fastburst
Active Member
Aaron is right, you do really have to see it all in person to get the full effect of it all. Pics are one thing but they don't even get a chance to give the detail as you would really see.
Side note, Aaron I got your servo parts in and have started on your wrist blades, they will be ready for you on Friday when you come down. See you then brotha!
Not a problem, If it wasn't for Todd (ElkMan) the wrist blades wouldn't have came out as great as they did. I will see about making a tutorial for them as well soon.
-James
fastburst
Active Member
UPDATED
I started on my Celtic Predator Skin. I did a much different approach to the latexing and said I would try something no one so far from what I can tell has ever used for skinning. I decided to try LATEX BODY PAINT, After using them o my dreads and loving the results I gave it try on my skins the the results have truly been remarkable and MUCH FASTER. The Latex Body Paint I got 2 Gallons of and coating couldn't be more simple as this DRIES IN 10 minutes time. I still have a ways to go as I have applied about 10 coats on each side so far and only used not even a gallon to do this so far and it is thick on the suit and VERY Durable. Strength wise it is just as strong as the other Latex Methods.
I am very happy with the results and this is much easier to work with and clean is a breeze!
I started off with the Mr. Incredible Suit using the Mr. Incredible Suit guide provided on the lair as a reference. Created my Duck Tape dummy and stuff it. (I am not sure if I will include those pics but I may later lol)
NEXT, the 1st and most importantly. I sewed on a zipper to the back of the suit instead of the velcro that was attached prior. After that I sewed in a Zipper to the front for quick restroom uses. I seen sooooo many people complain when they are suited up that the bathroom is a pain because you have to un-suit. Me, I thought common sense should have told you that and WHY WOULDN'T YOU HAVE A ZIPPER IN THE FRONT???? Maybe that's just me. layer of Latexing starts to fill in the fibers of the suit.
Started to add more muscles to the suit.
Bumps for the bumpy skin being applied. The only bad part on this part was that the Black Body Latex Paint is VERY Sticky, where is the Flesh Color is not. SO I decided to used spray adhesive, that was a no go. Next I tried Rubber Cement... and BAM worked like a charm. It was a pain sticking everyone of these little cotton fiber balls to the suit as you had to literally do this one by one by one. but there is no method to it so its all random.
Cut open the Chest muscles and stuffed with regular cotton balls and then set a center decrease to actually make look like a chest and pecs. Cut out some latex gloves and used to seal the area. Covered everything in Latex and more Latex and more Latex.
About 10 coats on one side already. Still needs more but need to flip around and start on the back section before I get to far into it. So far VERY NICE RESULTS
Flipped over and started working on the Back Layers and build up.
Added Cotton Fiber Balls.
I was going to make this a lot more bumpy, but thought to myself, yes that would be great but with all the armor I have made and the way I will be painting it all and the over all them, most of this will be covered by Armor.
I will update with some more pics AS I still need to define more muscles and start more coats. But as you can see, this is just 2 days worth of work with Latex Body Paint Latex. Works wonders if you are on a budget and if you are in a hurry. Curing time again is about 10-15 minutes at 80 degrees. Pretty impressive stuff and very strong.
- James
I started on my Celtic Predator Skin. I did a much different approach to the latexing and said I would try something no one so far from what I can tell has ever used for skinning. I decided to try LATEX BODY PAINT, After using them o my dreads and loving the results I gave it try on my skins the the results have truly been remarkable and MUCH FASTER. The Latex Body Paint I got 2 Gallons of and coating couldn't be more simple as this DRIES IN 10 minutes time. I still have a ways to go as I have applied about 10 coats on each side so far and only used not even a gallon to do this so far and it is thick on the suit and VERY Durable. Strength wise it is just as strong as the other Latex Methods.
I am very happy with the results and this is much easier to work with and clean is a breeze!
I started off with the Mr. Incredible Suit using the Mr. Incredible Suit guide provided on the lair as a reference. Created my Duck Tape dummy and stuff it. (I am not sure if I will include those pics but I may later lol)
NEXT, the 1st and most importantly. I sewed on a zipper to the back of the suit instead of the velcro that was attached prior. After that I sewed in a Zipper to the front for quick restroom uses. I seen sooooo many people complain when they are suited up that the bathroom is a pain because you have to un-suit. Me, I thought common sense should have told you that and WHY WOULDN'T YOU HAVE A ZIPPER IN THE FRONT???? Maybe that's just me. layer of Latexing starts to fill in the fibers of the suit.
Started to add more muscles to the suit.
Bumps for the bumpy skin being applied. The only bad part on this part was that the Black Body Latex Paint is VERY Sticky, where is the Flesh Color is not. SO I decided to used spray adhesive, that was a no go. Next I tried Rubber Cement... and BAM worked like a charm. It was a pain sticking everyone of these little cotton fiber balls to the suit as you had to literally do this one by one by one. but there is no method to it so its all random.
Cut open the Chest muscles and stuffed with regular cotton balls and then set a center decrease to actually make look like a chest and pecs. Cut out some latex gloves and used to seal the area. Covered everything in Latex and more Latex and more Latex.
About 10 coats on one side already. Still needs more but need to flip around and start on the back section before I get to far into it. So far VERY NICE RESULTS
Flipped over and started working on the Back Layers and build up.
Added Cotton Fiber Balls.
I was going to make this a lot more bumpy, but thought to myself, yes that would be great but with all the armor I have made and the way I will be painting it all and the over all them, most of this will be covered by Armor.
I will update with some more pics AS I still need to define more muscles and start more coats. But as you can see, this is just 2 days worth of work with Latex Body Paint Latex. Works wonders if you are on a budget and if you are in a hurry. Curing time again is about 10-15 minutes at 80 degrees. Pretty impressive stuff and very strong.
- James
fastburst
Active Member
Knightviper09
New Member
Excellent work man. Love how you made the armor out of foam. Saving this tutorial for real!!! Keep us updated when its finished too.
Preds
New Member
lawl im like. Oh em eff gee lol. that is some good baddassory you have there. Talk about some extreme patience with those detailing in Foamies. Honestly wish Boeing gave me more time to do that stuff. Patients is something i have come good friends with. That 787 is no joke with Avionics. Reguardless. Nice job on the fomaies. very godo quality
made007
Sr Member
exellent, i hope mine come as good as yours when i work on it
fastburst
Active Member
UPDATE:
Started airbrushing my Predator skin over the weekend.
I started with airbrushing the flesh colored latex with a more predator looking flesh color over it followed by an orange outlining of the shaded areas for depth and contrast.
Next, I went with a light brownish shade followed by an even darker brownish mix.
Then after all that was completed, I added the last shading and used black. This was a bigger pain in the ass than I originally thought it would be. I thought I was going to be able to use a stencil for the spots but after cutting out a stencil and trying to apply it, it just wasn't feasible in the time I have. Yes it probably would have gone much quicker, however there were just too many curves and shapes to try and make the stencil work.
So I manned up and did ALL FREEHAND, it wasn't that hard however it did take a toll on my back. The table is pretty low to the ground and sitting in a chair only took me so far so was bent over a lot. Lesson learned: Use a duct tape dummy with a standing skeleton. My time is limited and didn't have time to do so lol. Oh well.
Lastly, I used a Acrylic Latex Matte Finishing Gloss found at Michael's. A little bit goes a very long way, It can be thinned with water, I myself, thinned it with Rubbing Alcohol 70% mixture to help the evaporation and drying time to be cut even faster. It gave a very nice wet seal gloss look and was dry to the touch within about 3 minutes maybe even less. When dry it is water resistant. Also a side note. it is flexible and works as an adhesive for Acrylic paint.
I also did some test with it and seen that I can bend and flex it without the paint cracking which was VERY NICE! I tested it on my hands and feet that I made previously in this thread. and works wonders.
The great part is I didn't have to cake it on.
SIDENOTE AND WARNING: If you are going to use the Matte Gloss, I advise thinning and using thru and airbrush. Using a regular brush is all fine to just be careful with a brush, the instructions on the container warn you as well. Brushing vigorously, will cause bubbles and fogging. More so with foam brushes.
I still have the paint the back of the skin itself which wont take very long since most of the coloring it black. I may still use another clear coat Poly-acrylic water based High Gloss Clear paint found almost anywhere (Walmart, Home Depot, Lowe's, Ace Hardware, Michael's, Hobby Lobby, etc)
More to follow, I had to use my iPhone for the pics as I have seemed to misplaced my camera.
- James
Started airbrushing my Predator skin over the weekend.
I started with airbrushing the flesh colored latex with a more predator looking flesh color over it followed by an orange outlining of the shaded areas for depth and contrast.
Next, I went with a light brownish shade followed by an even darker brownish mix.
Then after all that was completed, I added the last shading and used black. This was a bigger pain in the ass than I originally thought it would be. I thought I was going to be able to use a stencil for the spots but after cutting out a stencil and trying to apply it, it just wasn't feasible in the time I have. Yes it probably would have gone much quicker, however there were just too many curves and shapes to try and make the stencil work.
So I manned up and did ALL FREEHAND, it wasn't that hard however it did take a toll on my back. The table is pretty low to the ground and sitting in a chair only took me so far so was bent over a lot. Lesson learned: Use a duct tape dummy with a standing skeleton. My time is limited and didn't have time to do so lol. Oh well.
Lastly, I used a Acrylic Latex Matte Finishing Gloss found at Michael's. A little bit goes a very long way, It can be thinned with water, I myself, thinned it with Rubbing Alcohol 70% mixture to help the evaporation and drying time to be cut even faster. It gave a very nice wet seal gloss look and was dry to the touch within about 3 minutes maybe even less. When dry it is water resistant. Also a side note. it is flexible and works as an adhesive for Acrylic paint.
I also did some test with it and seen that I can bend and flex it without the paint cracking which was VERY NICE! I tested it on my hands and feet that I made previously in this thread. and works wonders.
The great part is I didn't have to cake it on.
SIDENOTE AND WARNING: If you are going to use the Matte Gloss, I advise thinning and using thru and airbrush. Using a regular brush is all fine to just be careful with a brush, the instructions on the container warn you as well. Brushing vigorously, will cause bubbles and fogging. More so with foam brushes.
I still have the paint the back of the skin itself which wont take very long since most of the coloring it black. I may still use another clear coat Poly-acrylic water based High Gloss Clear paint found almost anywhere (Walmart, Home Depot, Lowe's, Ace Hardware, Michael's, Hobby Lobby, etc)
More to follow, I had to use my iPhone for the pics as I have seemed to misplaced my camera.
- James
Last edited by a moderator:
fastburst
Active Member
fastburst
Active Member
UPDATE:
Here are 2 pics of my feet I completed with Toe Dusters and a Custom Shoes.
@made007
As promised this is the stuff I used for clear. As you can see it is a very small bottle and I used for my entire suit and still have over half the bottles left after thinning
-James
Here are 2 pics of my feet I completed with Toe Dusters and a Custom Shoes.
@made007
As promised this is the stuff I used for clear. As you can see it is a very small bottle and I used for my entire suit and still have over half the bottles left after thinning
-James
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