pielock373
Well-Known Member
I wish they would have offered different starship registrations, I would have loved to get the MR Starship Exeter. That would have been a real hoot. :love Can't wait for part three of the show.....
MR TOS Enterprise - new pics
- Thread starter rhboyd
- Start date
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(pielock373 @ Jan 25 2007, 11:10 PM) [snapback]1405135[/snapback]</div>
I did mention the crack in post #628, so I wasn't ignoring it. None of these ships will be perfect or identical. Only as much as is practical.
I don't see any point in picking nits. I realize that a seam is more than a nit, but I may be able to live wth it, we'll see. I have to think about it and get it out of the box for more face time.
John
I did mention the crack in post #628, so I wasn't ignoring it. None of these ships will be perfect or identical. Only as much as is practical.
I don't see any point in picking nits. I realize that a seam is more than a nit, but I may be able to live wth it, we'll see. I have to think about it and get it out of the box for more face time.
John
QuiGonFishing
Active Member
Aside from that damn crack, this is the best ship I've seen yet in tems of overall finish. If yoi can get that seam sealed, I'd be very happy...
Here's a link to my report (which is probably worthless) on the shipping order:
http://p082.ezboard.com/fpropreplicasfrm63...51&stop=865
Here's a link to my report (which is probably worthless) on the shipping order:
http://p082.ezboard.com/fpropreplicasfrm63...51&stop=865
pielock373
Well-Known Member
Hi John
I didn't mean to sound like I was jumping down your throte, my apologies. I am just very concerned for all of us about these little problems that people a getting with the enterprises. Its a lot of money to spend to see paint rubbed off, lights not working, pieces buckled and cracks that are so obvious that it shouldn't have left the factory. I am just holding my breath until I see my model.
I didn't mean to sound like I was jumping down your throte, my apologies. I am just very concerned for all of us about these little problems that people a getting with the enterprises. Its a lot of money to spend to see paint rubbed off, lights not working, pieces buckled and cracks that are so obvious that it shouldn't have left the factory. I am just holding my breath until I see my model.
Rocketeer390
Well-Known Member
I agreee with Refit's course of action. If the damage is minimal and you have the skills to make the repair, I would fix it myself also. Certainly as much effort as repacking and sending out, and then having to wait for another. Also, the damage I've seen looks like stuff that happened during shipping. They probably looked fine when they went out.
So incoming inspection checklist based on what we have seen so far.
Thank god no failed motors have been reported yet, that is the only one on the list that has not been seen yet.
1. Lights all work?
2. Motors work, assess noise level?
3. Cracks on dorsal of neck?
4. Grids acceptable?
5. Paint scuffs acceptable?
6. Buckled grills on warp engines?
7. Glue blobs?
8. Warp pylon gaps at hull? I think every single one has this actually.
9. Light leaks around beacon, strobes, nav lights, dorsal lights?
Your mileage clearly may vary. Decide what is a show stopper ahead of time and have your plan.
And hopefully this list does not grow.
Thank god no failed motors have been reported yet, that is the only one on the list that has not been seen yet.
1. Lights all work?
2. Motors work, assess noise level?
3. Cracks on dorsal of neck?
4. Grids acceptable?
5. Paint scuffs acceptable?
6. Buckled grills on warp engines?
7. Glue blobs?
8. Warp pylon gaps at hull? I think every single one has this actually.
9. Light leaks around beacon, strobes, nav lights, dorsal lights?
Your mileage clearly may vary. Decide what is a show stopper ahead of time and have your plan.
And hopefully this list does not grow.
mr.predicta
Well-Known Member
I may be trying to pick one up on evelbay the damaged ones.
they do not check the motors or lights since the transformers and stand are not included.
could someone on this board who had one delivered post the output on the power supply and send me a pix of the plug?is this a simple 12V system RCA jack?
Thanks
MSL
they do not check the motors or lights since the transformers and stand are not included.
could someone on this board who had one delivered post the output on the power supply and send me a pix of the plug?is this a simple 12V system RCA jack?
Thanks
MSL
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(mr.predicta @ Jan 26 2007, 09:46 AM) [snapback]1405398[/snapback]</div>
Big ass mono jack. 1/4"? not sure.
9 Volt AC Adapter. 1.7 Amps.
Center pin of jack is positive.
Short coiled spring around the base of the jack. Probably not an essential thing, but it may help with making a better ground circuit.
The plug for the jack is rather deep inside the model. So it must be mounted solidly on the end of a rod, JB Weld perhaps.
Go back throug this thread, should be a link with pics of it.
Big ass mono jack. 1/4"? not sure.
9 Volt AC Adapter. 1.7 Amps.
Center pin of jack is positive.
Short coiled spring around the base of the jack. Probably not an essential thing, but it may help with making a better ground circuit.
The plug for the jack is rather deep inside the model. So it must be mounted solidly on the end of a rod, JB Weld perhaps.
Go back throug this thread, should be a link with pics of it.
pielock373
Well-Known Member
Another date slipping by with no word yet from MR... :angry :cry 
Steve P
Steve P
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(CessnaDriver @ Jan 26 2007, 11:04 AM) [snapback]1405345[/snapback]</div>
I don't know, $1200 and you may have to touch it up or make repairs? At $1200 I can't settle for "I guess this is as good as it gets", for that cash it should be pretty close to prefect.
Maybe it's just the close-ups I've seen but it looks like a lot of dirt/dust in the paint on some of these models, how much can it be noticed?
Jim
I don't know, $1200 and you may have to touch it up or make repairs? At $1200 I can't settle for "I guess this is as good as it gets", for that cash it should be pretty close to prefect.
Maybe it's just the close-ups I've seen but it looks like a lot of dirt/dust in the paint on some of these models, how much can it be noticed?
Jim
DrMcoy
Sr Member
I have been watching this thread with great interest as I have one on order with an MR supplier.
I was one of the few to actually receive the UNOBTANIUM Enterprise, the firstof which I had to send back because one of the engine lights didn't work -- and belive it or not, I was sent a new replacement. But this model fell prey to the drooping resin and the neck also started to crack....I eventually managed to trade it to another collector who actually wanted it despite it's poor condition.
As for the MR, I realize there are some small flaws which I will likely have to overlook, but I am with those others who believe that for $1,200+, you should receive a model that does NOT have bad lights OR any types of CRACKS int he seams. Believe me, the small crakcs on my UNOBTANIUM kept growing and growing, so if it loks like a small crack now, keep an eye on it. Yes, I realize UNOBTANIUM was made from different materials than the MR, so this may not be a fair comparison....guess what I'm saying is that I will NOT accept cracks in the seams or disfunctional lights.
The idea of providing touch-up paint is a good one -- but should be reserved for touching up small blemishes. I have NO intention of having to "clamp" any part of my model together to close up seams or "putty and paint it." Not for $1,200.
While I remain optimistic, I am VERY concerned about these issues...I can tell you from experience that it is no JOY to have to box something that large up and send it back.
I REALLY wish MR had made a version that was HALF the size without lights, but accurate in design and paint detail....if only POLAR LIGHTS had done a large version of the Enterprise TOS ship and not the movioe ship before they sold the biz.
Anyways...I REALLY appreciate people taking the time to post pictures of their MR ship and being honest in their assessment of the details.
As for the GRID LINES, I have seen photos of original filming model on IDIC page that clearly show the lines were there on top and bottom of ship -- BUT, they were so faint that i REALLY wish MR had just left them opff. This is the ONE thing uNOBTANIUM did that I liked -- and it looked FANTASTIC not having the lines on top or bottom. WHY? Because THIS IS HOW THE SHIP LOOKED IN EVERY EPISODE I EVER SAW ON TV.
Yes, I understand the need to make it look like the original filming ship -- even if camera didn't pick up on this -- but it truly is a shame that MR didn't make the grid lines 80% thinner or less dark. WHY. WHY.??? WHY???...
But i can overlook even this IF the model comes in good repair with working lights and no CRACKS.
Okay, sorry for the rant -- its just that I've wanted to own a spectacular version of this ship ever since I was 8 years old (I'm 44 now) and the AMT Kit was all we had for a long time...then the tiny Polar Lights...then the UNOBTANIUM whichw ent sour (if you even received one you paid for) - so you can see why I am hopeful that the MR ships tuirn out to be more spectacular than damaged.
I was one of the few to actually receive the UNOBTANIUM Enterprise, the firstof which I had to send back because one of the engine lights didn't work -- and belive it or not, I was sent a new replacement. But this model fell prey to the drooping resin and the neck also started to crack....I eventually managed to trade it to another collector who actually wanted it despite it's poor condition.
As for the MR, I realize there are some small flaws which I will likely have to overlook, but I am with those others who believe that for $1,200+, you should receive a model that does NOT have bad lights OR any types of CRACKS int he seams. Believe me, the small crakcs on my UNOBTANIUM kept growing and growing, so if it loks like a small crack now, keep an eye on it. Yes, I realize UNOBTANIUM was made from different materials than the MR, so this may not be a fair comparison....guess what I'm saying is that I will NOT accept cracks in the seams or disfunctional lights.
The idea of providing touch-up paint is a good one -- but should be reserved for touching up small blemishes. I have NO intention of having to "clamp" any part of my model together to close up seams or "putty and paint it." Not for $1,200.
While I remain optimistic, I am VERY concerned about these issues...I can tell you from experience that it is no JOY to have to box something that large up and send it back.
I REALLY wish MR had made a version that was HALF the size without lights, but accurate in design and paint detail....if only POLAR LIGHTS had done a large version of the Enterprise TOS ship and not the movioe ship before they sold the biz.
Anyways...I REALLY appreciate people taking the time to post pictures of their MR ship and being honest in their assessment of the details.
As for the GRID LINES, I have seen photos of original filming model on IDIC page that clearly show the lines were there on top and bottom of ship -- BUT, they were so faint that i REALLY wish MR had just left them opff. This is the ONE thing uNOBTANIUM did that I liked -- and it looked FANTASTIC not having the lines on top or bottom. WHY? Because THIS IS HOW THE SHIP LOOKED IN EVERY EPISODE I EVER SAW ON TV.
Yes, I understand the need to make it look like the original filming ship -- even if camera didn't pick up on this -- but it truly is a shame that MR didn't make the grid lines 80% thinner or less dark. WHY. WHY.??? WHY???...
But i can overlook even this IF the model comes in good repair with working lights and no CRACKS.
Okay, sorry for the rant -- its just that I've wanted to own a spectacular version of this ship ever since I was 8 years old (I'm 44 now) and the AMT Kit was all we had for a long time...then the tiny Polar Lights...then the UNOBTANIUM whichw ent sour (if you even received one you paid for) - so you can see why I am hopeful that the MR ships tuirn out to be more spectacular than damaged.
The grids belong there in this scale I believe. They should be rather subtle on the bottom, and less subtle on the top.
But SUBTLE is the operative word.
I thought they did good on the one I had to send back....
http://home.san.rr.com/maxxq/e.jpg
http://home.san.rr.com/maxxq/e1.jpg
http://home.san.rr.com/maxxq/e12.jpg
Do the pics above look too much to anyone who believes grids should be on this scale model?
I was happy with those grids damn it.
But most other pics I have seen of what others are getting really bums me out because my expectations were of what I had already.
Argh.
But SUBTLE is the operative word.
I thought they did good on the one I had to send back....
http://home.san.rr.com/maxxq/e.jpg
http://home.san.rr.com/maxxq/e1.jpg
http://home.san.rr.com/maxxq/e12.jpg
Do the pics above look too much to anyone who believes grids should be on this scale model?
I was happy with those grids damn it.
But most other pics I have seen of what others are getting really bums me out because my expectations were of what I had already.
Argh.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(CessnaDriver @ Jan 26 2007, 03:54 PM) [snapback]1405493[/snapback]</div>
The bottom line is that the grids are being done by hand in pencil and unless the person that's doing it is keeping it to the same pressure as the one before some are going to be darker.
I agree the one you had was as good as you could ask for, it's to bad it had to go back.
Jim
The bottom line is that the grids are being done by hand in pencil and unless the person that's doing it is keeping it to the same pressure as the one before some are going to be darker.
I agree the one you had was as good as you could ask for, it's to bad it had to go back.
Jim
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(gojira61 @ Jan 26 2007, 01:12 PM) [snapback]1405504[/snapback]</div>
The bottom line is that the grids are being done by hand in pencil and unless the person that's doing it is keeping it to the same pressure as the one before some are going to be darker.
I agree the one you had was as good as you could ask for, it's to bad it had to go back.
Jim
[/b][/quote]
Argh, I know. It was a mistake for them to make it a hand drawn detail.
The variance expands beyond the envelope of authentic appearance.
The thing is, I believe it is possible to draw this correctly everytime. If they could do it once.
They should be able to do it again, with proper training. Get the guy who did them right to show the rest of them how to do it.
The bottom line is that the grids are being done by hand in pencil and unless the person that's doing it is keeping it to the same pressure as the one before some are going to be darker.
I agree the one you had was as good as you could ask for, it's to bad it had to go back.
Jim
[/b][/quote]
Argh, I know. It was a mistake for them to make it a hand drawn detail.
The variance expands beyond the envelope of authentic appearance.
The thing is, I believe it is possible to draw this correctly everytime. If they could do it once.
They should be able to do it again, with proper training. Get the guy who did them right to show the rest of them how to do it.
DrMcoy
Sr Member
Not to beat a dead horse, but I would have been just as happy not to see any grid lines. I don't think they are visible in any of the episodes EXCEPT maybe Tholian Web. If they were never seen in the series, and for that matter in any photos from the series, why even put them on. And if you look at IDIC pages of original ship model, they were VERY faint/fine.
However, I'll let this go. Last word on this -- I wish they I would have taken any money assigned to drawing pencil lines on the ship and put it into quality control. But then, I've never had to run a company that makes giant Enterprise ships, so I have no idea how this all works.
Here's hoping everyone gets a model they like.
Peace. Out.
Cessna,
Looking at pencil lines on your first ship, I agree - VERY NICELY DONE. I hope mine are as nicely done as these -- nice and thin and not too dark.
However, I'll let this go. Last word on this -- I wish they I would have taken any money assigned to drawing pencil lines on the ship and put it into quality control. But then, I've never had to run a company that makes giant Enterprise ships, so I have no idea how this all works.
Here's hoping everyone gets a model they like.
Peace. Out.
Cessna,
Looking at pencil lines on your first ship, I agree - VERY NICELY DONE. I hope mine are as nicely done as these -- nice and thin and not too dark.
I blame Roddenberry. HE was the one who said to put them on in the first place. LOL
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(pielock373 @ Jan 26 2007, 08:29 AM) [snapback]1405268[/snapback]</div>
It's all good. We all love the same thing; the TOS E.
John
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Bryancd @ Jan 26 2007, 08:52 AM) [snapback]1405275[/snapback]</div>
When I hold the ship in my hands, the primary hull does creak. These had an aluminum frame, did they not? So the plastic shell is not actually structural, just for looks.
I'm going to see about that crack this weekend.
It's all good. We all love the same thing; the TOS E.
John
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Bryancd @ Jan 26 2007, 08:52 AM) [snapback]1405275[/snapback]</div>
When I hold the ship in my hands, the primary hull does creak. These had an aluminum frame, did they not? So the plastic shell is not actually structural, just for looks.
I'm going to see about that crack this weekend.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Refit1701 @ Jan 26 2007, 03:42 PM) [snapback]1405597[/snapback]</div>
Yep. And clearly we love her too much.
It's all good. We all love the same thing; the TOS E.
[/b]
Yep. And clearly we love her too much.
Here's a pic of the power plug. I had a polite request for it.
MR Power plugs for TOS E
I believe someone already posted the voltage of the power supply, mine is marked 9 volts, 1.7 amps. I assume it is DC voltage but am not sure.
The large jack is a mono standard headphone jack. As opposed to the stereo jacks you see with two black stripes.
The small one may be a "N' type connector.
MR Power plugs for TOS E
I believe someone already posted the voltage of the power supply, mine is marked 9 volts, 1.7 amps. I assume it is DC voltage but am not sure.
The large jack is a mono standard headphone jack. As opposed to the stereo jacks you see with two black stripes.
The small one may be a "N' type connector.
