More details on the Vader ROTJ saber - Please archive

[Brevin Din-Shay]

John,

No, this was several days before Ken pointed to the possibility of the screw being there.

I just wanted everyone to be aware that there at least was a hole there!

 

[Oohyeah KL]

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DARTH SABER wrote:<HR></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS=$row_color>
Im sorry but I clearly see a differance in plane level between the clamp and the tubing below...

I outlined the the step where the bottom tube is higher than the clamp...I also outlined in red the end of the grip showing that it is sitting higher than the clamp base..

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I see it too. Here are some other shots which back up that theory:

Notice in the top circle that there seems to be a step down (thereby exposing a gap under the grip), and this step lines up with that dark line highlighted in the bottom circle.

Dark line shows up here too:

Here's the crop of a super high-res version of the [wherever-it's-from] pic:

(btw, you can see the chip in the grips more clearly here.)

ANd there's also this pic:

 

[Oohyeah KL]

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Brevin Din-Shay wrote:<HR></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS=$row_color>


My question is simply this: What EXACTLY have we pinpointed in this thread as "certainties?" </TD></TR><TR><TD><HR></TD></TR></TABLE><SPAN CLASS=$row_color>

OK, let me take an initial stab, at least so that I know whether I'm getting it right or not:

- bottom end is not made of wood nor cheese (sorry, couldn't resist...

)

ok, seriously... first, the non-contentious (I think):

- bottom half surface texture appears very different to top half, but most likely came from a Luke ESB
- 3 holes show between the grips (2 at bottom end, one on top)
- There's a metal disc thingy on the end, which curves 'concavely' inwards under pressure of the D-ring assembly
- There's a little hole further down the tube from the door latch (thanks, Kenny)
- The control box cylindrical things are most likely screws, with the notches at the top covered by paint so much so that they are hardly visible anymore

The contentious:

- Unclear whether bottom end is a Graflex base or not. Could be Graflex but covered with adhesive residue, or a custom base.
- Top hole between grip may or may not be a grip hole
- metal disc thingy could be washer or just a sheet metal disc
- metal disc thingy is brass? Rusted metal?
- metal disc thingy was painted gray? or had muck over it? or was sanded to show the striations?
- WTF is that notch/notches exposed under the control box? could be the graflex L-notch?
- AND LOTS, LOTS MORE...

 

[Brevin Din-Shay]

KL, way to lay it out!

FMC did it earlier, now I need to compare the two.

Hey, did we somehow miss another potentially important detail?

Look at this pic again (from JK1138, hosted temporarily by Wackychimp):

Can we get some zoom on the midband section?
WHY does it look as though there's ANOTHER SPLIT in the midband?

Also, what are those apparent holes in it?

Stumped all over again...

 

[Oohyeah KL]

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Brevin Din-Shay wrote:<HR></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS=$row_color>

WHY does it look as though there's ANOTHER SPLIT in the midband?

Also, what are those apparent holes in it?

Stumped all over again...
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That's no split.... that's a plexiglass effect! Chewie turn the ship around!!!

From this pic you just sent me, Dave, you can see that the split is just the edge of the plexiglass. And the 'holes' are probably an illusion caused by the plexiglass too - as I've just learnt never to trust anything you see through plexiglass!!

Secondly, let's clear up one thing, from the same pic:

Chris was right - the grip holes were NOT filled with crap, and it was just another optical illusion:

 

[Brevin Din-Shay]

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Oohyeah KL wrote:<HR></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS=$row_color>
That's no split.... that's a plexiglass effect! Chewie turn the ship around!!!

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Damned plexiglass!!! It's caused us more trouble than it's worth.

(BTW, I read all your Yoda quotes in an earlier thread...I was laughing the entire way through!

- Typical KL for ya!)

On to the newest pic...I certainly agree the entire bottom's not full of "crap," but the area closest to the endcap surely must be!

 

[Oohyeah KL]

Glad to know I wasn't just amusing myself...

 

[Johnleprekan]

in reply to David


I was wondering, does anyone else think the base could be larger in diameter than the top portion?

 

[steveday72]

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Oohyeah KL wrote:<HR></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS=$row_color>
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Brevin Din-Shay wrote:<HR></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS=$row_color>


My question is simply this: What EXACTLY have we pinpointed in this thread as "certainties?" </TD></TR><TR><TD><HR></TD></TR></TABLE>

OK, let me take an initial stab, at least so that I know whether I'm getting it right or not:

- bottom end is not made of wood nor cheese (sorry, couldn't resist...

)

ok, seriously... first, the non-contentious (I think):

- bottom half surface texture appears very different to top half, but most likely came from a Luke ESB
- 3 holes show between the grips (2 at bottom end, one on top)
- There's a metal disc thingy on the end, which curves 'concavely' inwards under pressure of the D-ring assembly
- There's a little hole further down the tube from the door latch (thanks, Kenny)
- The control box cylindrical things are most likely screws, with the notches at the top covered by paint so much so that they are hardly visible anymore

The contentious:

- Unclear whether bottom end is a Graflex base or not. Could be Graflex but covered with adhesive residue, or a custom base.
- Top hole between grip may or may not be a grip hole
- metal disc thingy could be washer or just a sheet metal disc
- metal disc thingy is brass? Rusted metal?
- metal disc thingy was painted gray? or had muck over it? or was sanded to show the striations?
- WTF is that notch/notches exposed under the control box? could be the graflex L-notch?
- AND LOTS, LOTS MORE...
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Here's some more to add to the list...


- Activation Box has been reported to be the housing from a momentary action electrical switch, but Darth Saber found a similar looking car circuit breaker (YJ-9340L).
- D-Ring is rusty with only a few spots of chrome remaining.
- Linhof bracket is mounted with rivets (they have 1/4" heads and appear to be aluminum).
- Ball catch is hollow, made from nickel or chrome plated pressed steel.
- Only one synchronizer port pin remains in the Graflex shell (it's in the lower hole of the socket that is left of the recharge port/tire valve).
- Recharge port is chrome/nickel plated brass and has a thread down inside the inner hole - it's likely to be a universal clamp-in tire valve).
- Grips are mounted with either hot glue or a clear epoxy resin.
- Graflex head shell seems to have been cut in half across the test bulb socket - something inside the saber (maybe white or grey PVC tubing) butts up against the remaining portion of the head shell.
- Flat-head countersunk socket bolts are 1/2" in diameter.



Steve

 

[steveday72]

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Johnleprekan wrote:<HR></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS=$row_color>

in reply to David


I was wondering, does anyone else think the base could be larger in diameter than the top portion?
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Possibly - there are a few photos that have an unexplainable line just behind the activation box.

Can someone confirm these measurements I've taken of the Linhof bracket... 30mm long and 15mm wide ?

If those are correct, then the bottom tube measures a fraction over 1.5" (around 1.523").


Steve

 

[Johnleprekan]

After doing some checking, it may not be difference in size. I set a straight line as a mark to compare to the sideview of the saber.

The saber looks like it's not perfectly straight. I even rotated a few times to compensate for any changes that uneven grips would make. It still looks pretty crooked. That would explain why the band opens up near the control box and sinks in where Darth Saber pointed out.

Try it out for yourself and rotate the saber pic.

 

[fried mon calamari]

Let's see, some more things we have hit on,

we can also add to the "agreed" category ( some known previously, just listing for completeness):

- midband was cut from piece of 1.5 in diameter tubing (do we have a length ( Ken?))
- there is a small hole in the center of the door catch
- front tang of the catch was cut off and set 1-2 mm from shroud
- rear hole in door catch uses slotted #4-40 x 1/2" screw ( not phillips)
- the inner circumference of the shroud is rounded on the edges
- rear edge of the port plug shaft is flat and butts up against leading edge of tube insert
- there is a flat head hex bolt under the door catch, slightly off-center
- there is a cylinder covering the front screw in the control box in early pics, but looks like it has come off or broken on the left side ( looking down the front) in later pics
- Linhof rivets have flat heads ( filed down or stock)
- there is putty/ epoxy in the recharge ports where they affixed the emitter piece to the bulb/ pin socket piece

Areas of contention

- Rear tube might be a slightly larger diameter than the front tube
- rear tube stops just in front of the grips and sets over another tube
- there is glue/ putty visible under the front left edge of the door catch

- Grips are either hard plastic, resin, or t-track dipped on plastic
- there may or may not be a very small screw in the center hole of the door catch



Man, we have tore this sucker apart 6 ways from Sunday and still don't have it dialed out!

Way to go everybody! This has been a kick!

over 400 posts and more than 5300 views!!!!!

edit- change "screw" to " bolt" - cuz of my poor english skills

 

[DARTH SABER]

OK, lets move on to some fresh material....What about the bolt holding the cylinder which houses the emitter D-ring...

What kind of bolt and what size??



Oh BTW, great close up pic of the bottom shell KL!!! It really shows the seam well!

 

[steveday72]

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fried mon calamari wrote:<HR></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS=$row_color>
Let's see, some more things we have hit on,

we can also add to the "agreed" category ( some known previously, just listing for completeness):

- midband was cut from piece of 1.5 in diameter tubing (do we have a length ( Ken?))
- there is a small hole in the center of the door catch
- front tang of the catch was cut off and set 1-2 mm from shroud
- rear hole in door catch uses slotted #4-40 x 1/2" screw ( not phillips)
- the inner circumference of the shroud is rounded on the edges
- rear edge of the port plug shaft is flat and butts up against leading edge of tube insert
- there is a flat head hex screw under the door catch, slightly off-center
- there is a cylinder covering the front screw in the control box in early pics, but looks like it has come off or broken on the left side ( looking down the front) in later pics
- Linhof rivets have flat heads ( filed down or stock)
- there is putty/ epoxy in the recharge ports where they affixed the emitter piece to the bulb/ pin socket piece

Areas of contention

- Rear tube might be a slightly larger diameter than the front tube
- rear tube stops just in front of the grips and sets over another tube
- there is glue/ putty visible under the front left edge of the door catch

- Grips are either hard plastic, resin, or t-track dipped on plastic
- there may or may not be a very small screw in the center hole of the door catch



Man, we have tore this sucker apart 6 ways from Sunday and still don't have it dialed out!

Way to go everybody! This has been a kick!

over 400 posts and more than 5300 views!!!!!

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The midband is 2" long.

I'm going to check into the glue around the door catch theory - I think it might actually be a notch cut out of the inside of the shroud ring, but I only had a brief look, so don't quote me on that.

All pop-rivets have a flat head to some degree or another - it depends on the design. They all seem to have rounded edges on them though, regardless of if the flat spot is small or large.

I don't go along with the idea of a tube being slid over the front activator box screw and breaking off (sorry Ken). With ehancement of the image, I can see a thread on most of that area and don't understand how something could have been broken off in a sheltered area like that. I'll have another look at the photos tomorrow and see if I can see what Ken does.


Steve

 

[fried mon calamari]

I used the M4-7 Class 8 Hex Nut that Wado Yado mentioned in his tutorial. I ground the hex edges down to round it all off and make it match the prop.( just putting this out there as a starting point, not saying it's 100%

)

Heck, what about the cylinder as a whole? Do we know what that is from? I compiled some of the shots that have been posted so far, for consideration.

Also, is that putty under the nut on the underside?

 

[lonepigeon]

A Kobold bracket is 14mm x 30mm
I checked all three of mine to be sure.
BTW- I wish someone would make an accurate one of these (BlasTech's are 13mm).

I haven't found any flat headed pop rivets. I don't think Bobadebt has yet either.

I wish this saber was still in the states so some of us could go look at it in person with all these new ideas in mind. MoM is still in Australia with isn't it?

 

[rhboyd]

You are a detail genius!

Nice observation!

But what does it mean?? Thatthey cut a pole into the grip end, threw it around and then realized their mistake? Was the "Joe Smith"'s one and only day in the prop dept.?

What do you think the back story is?

weird!

-r

 

[rhboyd]

He's probably the same boob that broke the widow's peak of Darth's friggin' helemt!

schmoe!!!

-r

 

[TallDarkandDisfigured]

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Killdozer wrote:<HR></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS=$row_color>

OMFG!!!!!! I just had an incredible revelation!!! Tell me what you think!!!!!

My son's downstairs watching Jedi right now, and I walked past, just as Vader throws his saber at Luke-- the now well-known blade-in-the-grip-end shot. I pointed this out to him and we had a chuckle...

THEN, I realized that the centre of gravity of the spinning weapon is somewhere in the blade, just past the hilt.

Therefore, there was a rod in the hilt for the shot.

Not in the emitter end, IN THE BUTT END!

Which is why it was covered up with gunk, washer(s), paint and a D-ring for the MOM exhibit!!!!!

Am I right? Huh? Huh?


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Somewhere David's head is exploding.

I HAVE to check this out now. I can't believe nobody put those 2 facts together before now.

 

[Oohyeah KL]

False alarm, guys...
I thought everyone knew the story??

They digitally edited the shots to put the blade on the other end cos the saber didn't land correctly.

So in actual fact, the saber rod was in the correct end in the actual prop.

Sorry...