Mold question - Jedi Comlink

the.rebel.agent

Sr Member
Well, a few weeks ago I posted this:

http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=41320

This is the piece I have to copy.

DSC02668L.jpg


DSC02682L.jpg



Now, I am ready to do the mold, and since I am not an expert in this area, I would love to see what do you think guys? What kind of mold will be better for the body of the comlink. I already have Silicon RTV at my workshop and some experience doing molds boxes for my resin pouches.

simple mold or two pieces mold?
 
You could use

Spray on Cooking Oil

A Carnauba based furniture wax spray. Which is pretty much what the commercial mold release agent is- Without the freezing agent..

The commercial release agent is a propellant, dichlorotetrafluoro-ethane (freezing agent) and a polymeric resin/wax blend.

The product works by skinning the surface of the mold and part and then forming a wax barrier.

If you go with the Cooking Oil spray buy the one that bubbles the least (spray them on something in the store as a test..)

Car dashboard wax spray might work well, but you'd have to be sure it wasn't a silicone based version of that stuff.

Carnaubu spray on furniture wax is the best thing I listed.

The Vaseline is too thick too pick up fine details, You have to thin it down with a solvent and airbrush it on too get the best possible results

Your best bet is too buy the release agent spray, but I'm figuring that might be an issue for you. Otherwise you wouldn't ask about this..
 
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You could use

Spray on Cooking Oil

A Carnauba based furniture wax spray.

If you go with the Cooking Oil spray buy the one that bubbles the least (spray them on something in the store as a test..)

Car dash board wax spray might well but you'd have to be sure it wasn't a silicone based version of that stuff.

Carnaubu spray on furniture wax is the best thing I listed.

The Vaseline is too thick too pick up fine details, You have to thin it down with a solvent and airbrush it on too get the best possible results

Your best bet is too buy the release agent spray, but I'm figuring that might be an issue for you. Otherwise you wouldn't ask about this..
Hey, thanks. I was about to buy that release agent when they recommended me the Vaseline. We try that way, If don't work, will buy thatr release agent. :love
 
I was able to buy liquid Vaseline. So I guess that won't be any problem to spray over the grip part. Keep you posted guys. I have to build the mold box right now.
 
I may be wrong, but iirc I somwhere read that the rubber wave-pattern grip was not on the real prop.
Or was it the surounding rubber edge, due to a clean two part mold...?
I believe they removed one of those. :confused
 
I may be wrong, but iirc I somwhere read that the rubber wave-pattern grip was not on the real prop.
Or was it the surounding rubber edge, due to a clean two part mold...?
I believe they removed one of those. :confused
Yes, they removed the back grip and the edge. The front grip remained.

DSC02682L.jpg


DSC02668L.jpg
 
the soft part of that gillette piece is NOT silicone, thus RTV won't stick to it. I molded one of these things right before TPM was released for the first Celebration, two part mold, no release needed. If i was to do it over again, i would separate the rigid halves and soft part for molding, but wouldn't be overly concerned about RTV sticking to anything as silicone only sticks to silicone, or very porous surfaces...
 
the soft part of that gillette piece is NOT silicone, thus RTV won't stick to it. I molded one of these things right before TPM was released for the first Celebration, two part mold, no release needed. If i was to do it over again, i would separate the rigid halves and soft part for molding, but wouldn't be overly concerned about RTV sticking to anything as silicone only sticks to silicone, or very porous surfaces...
Thanks for the advice. I will be extra careful with the grip then :rolleyes
 
that's a nice mold. The part will be great I bet.

Since the back is flat, you probably could have gotten away with a dump mold...
 
that's a nice mold. The part will be great I bet.

Since the back is flat, you probably could have gotten away with a dump mold...
Thanks, let's hope that. And yes, could be true, but wanted to try it cause never did one of those before :love, It was a great excuse.
 
How about letting the mold line follow the seam line on the razor, where the front and back halves are connected? That would be the most natural, I think.
Also, put the pour spout at the top, at the "microphone" - that part would be covered mostly by greeblies.
 
Is that Legos surrounding the silicone? (or the same type of thing) If so, how was the leakage stopped?
 
silicone doesn't leak through the legos in my experience, it get inside the block a bit, but that's it. I tend to use doublesided tape for one part molds to stick the box to the surface.
 
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