No problem! It actually looks pretty good, but there are little tricks to making it look it's best. I'll get some pics in the sun, and address this in the little video I need to make.
Mib neuralyzer toys
- Thread starter DrMcoy
- Start date
NakedMoleRat
Legendary Member
Put some scribe lines in the clear tube and I think you'll have it.
Roshanini
New Member
I'm back but I'm not buying I'll try to contribute a bit more but if you are still willing to sell pm meYea.... Well..... :confused Moving along!!!!
I was not able to track down any Future wax today, the time for that, just wasn't in the cards! I could leave it alone with just the Alclad 2 finish, but it really needs a protective coating. The whole paint process, is what has been taking so long! But I'll get it figured out real soon!
I was working on making the front lens, and I was not having much luck with making the clear plastic work. So I tried clear vinyl tubing!
Here are a few pics. I basically cut the tubing to size, then heated it up (using a soldering gun), taped it to the top portion of the flash unit, while it cooled down. I think it will work just fine! (notice the black finish! It's only the 5th attempt at the chrome paint, along with a piece of my sanity!)
It's getting there! I'll post a video, with all the details soon!
Anyways that looks really good but why is it black now
O.k., don't take this the wrong way, but if you read what I have typed, you will find the answer's
It's black because I was working on the lens cover, before I painted it with the alclad chrome paint.
This is one of the largest Prop Forums, on the internet! Look around! There is so much to see! The last thing you want to do is leave a bad impression!
Since you are a new member, you will need to go to the Junkyard, and put in a request, for new members, of what you wound want to purchase.
Having said that, If I were to make a couple more of these, it's not something I can just pop out in a couple days! It takes time!
If you do decide to hang around for 3 months, and however many posts, you will find tons of info. Along with many members to help along the way.
So if your into movie props, and possibly want to build your own, have some patience. This is the last place you want to get banned from.
Just some friendly advice.
It's black because I was working on the lens cover, before I painted it with the alclad chrome paint.
This is one of the largest Prop Forums, on the internet! Look around! There is so much to see! The last thing you want to do is leave a bad impression!
Since you are a new member, you will need to go to the Junkyard, and put in a request, for new members, of what you wound want to purchase.
Having said that, If I were to make a couple more of these, it's not something I can just pop out in a couple days! It takes time!
If you do decide to hang around for 3 months, and however many posts, you will find tons of info. Along with many members to help along the way.
So if your into movie props, and possibly want to build your own, have some patience. This is the last place you want to get banned from.
Just some friendly advice.
Roshanini
New Member
Thanks do you know what you said about building my own can you tell me what to do and where to get stuff BTW I live in the UK can you lead me in the right direction
Look towards the beginning of the thread, and I give details on how to cut, and mount items. There is also detail's about the plastic costume replica that is used for the build.
Well I thought I would give a little update! I know this is kind of off course
with the original post, but I spent a lot of time on working with the Alclad 2 paint! So I thought if I posted some of the do's and don'ts, maybe some others could learn!
So! EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT ALCLAD 2 PAINT, THAT I HAVE LEARNED THE HARD WAY! That should be able to track down on the search function!
I have noticed a lot of people, across the web, who try, but give no final answers! Well here they are! Some may disagree with me, but if you have not devoted answers, than you have not helped!
1. Alclad 2 is not a lacquer! To put it simply, it is a metallic, that is held in suspension, with a alcohol based chemical.
2. The surface you spray it over, has to be smooth as glass, for best results. Weather that involves, wetsanding, recoating, and a coat of a gloss top coat, this will help the look.
3. Do not spray over a Lacquer based black! (you might think this would be the best option, since it says it's a lacquer right? Go back to step 1!) It will not stick! It wipes off like powder.
4. Spray an Enamel based black (or alclad's black) first, make sure it's as slick as you an get it, wait for it to cure good, than apply the alclad 2 paint.
5. After waiting several days, you can apply Future floor wax, by Pledge. Yes they have changed the bottle, but it's the same product modeler's have used before. Some say it kills the look! It does take away from the look a little bit, but nothing like a solvent based clear. Future floor wax is like a water based coating, so it does not attack the chrome finish, like other clear's do.
6. You cannot apply lacquer clear, or urethane (2 part automotive clear) over top the alclad 2! Not from a distance!, Not in a tack coat!, Not in a small tack coat, spraying far away, or upside down, than applying a thick coat! IT WILL NOT WORK! That also goes for the House of Kolor chrome paint as well! It react's to the clear, by turning a dark grey silver! It sucks! This goes for the Enamel chrome paint's as well.
7. Right now, where I live, it's about 30 degree's. So if I was to go outside, spray gloss black enamel, over my project, the paint will wrinkle! Go ahead!, try it! It sucks, but it's the nature of enamel paint! Even if you paint indoors, with a good working temperature, it can still wrinkle! The reason is the enamel not only needs good airflow, but heat, and the sun!
8. If you want to tackle using enamel's in the winter, you need to try out some idea's. I made a little cabinet area, with a front opening. Then I put a small electric space heater inside. Using this as a little oven of sorts, to hang parts that were painted over top the heater. I tried this technique with Krylon Fusion spray can enamel, in 8 hour shifts, for 2 days (keeping a watchful eye to make sure nothing would catch on fire!) and it provided a great cureing for the paint. If you want to try this, PLEASE BE CAREFUL!! KEEP YOUR EYEBALLS ON IT!!! Space heaters can be dangerous, without painted parts hanging over top of them!
There is a difference between, dry, and cure, when it comes to enamel paint! Dry is when you can pick up the object, but, it can still finger print. this happens, because the top of the paint is dry. But, underneath, it's still trying to solidify (cure!). In the winter, on the East coast, this could take months!
I think this is a very big problem, for some of the enamel chrome paint's as well! No sun, no heat, and very dry air (without any good amount of humidity), equals, no cure!
I have used Testor's chrome paint (enamel!) before in the summer time, and had no problems. But I also let it sit out in the sun, with heat as it's friend, and it's cured! I tried this on the Neuralizer project, applied very light coats, let it sit for a month! But without some summer heat, and sun, their was no cure! So it smudged, and finger printed!
Back in the day's of when enamel's where used on cars, they would use a catalyst, or a gloss hardner. This made the finish cure, within a day or so. without it, it could take month's or years, before it was finally cured. Which also meant, they could not wetsand and buff the vehicle! It would turn into a gummy mess!
Why am I going into such detail about enamel? Because it's what has to go underneath the alclad 2 paint!
Below are some pictures, of the alclad 2 paint, applied over a plastic spoon. I started with a lacquer primer (which could be wetsanded with 600 grit for a smoother finish), applied Krylon Fussion gloss black paint. I hung this over the space heater, for a couple days, to get a better cure. Than finished with alclad 2 paint. It could look better, but it gives you an idea, of how it looks.
I tried using Future floor wax, by spraying it through my Iwata HP-CS, airbrush. It did not need any reduction, in my opinion. I had to turn down my air pressure, to keep it from running. I noticed it did dull it a little bit, but for the protection it provides, I think it was worth it. The alclad 2 paint does dry pretty good, but you can scratch the finish. Not to mention, it will rub off, if you try hard enough.
I do not have pictures of the finish after the Future floor wax. But when I get everything assembled, I will make a video!!
Hopefully I have helped answer some question's! If not, just ask! I've been messing with this paint, (as well as many other paint's, like base coat, clear coat, for over 15 years!) for month's.
with the original post, but I spent a lot of time on working with the Alclad 2 paint! So I thought if I posted some of the do's and don'ts, maybe some others could learn!
So! EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT ALCLAD 2 PAINT, THAT I HAVE LEARNED THE HARD WAY! That should be able to track down on the search function!
I have noticed a lot of people, across the web, who try, but give no final answers! Well here they are! Some may disagree with me, but if you have not devoted answers, than you have not helped!
1. Alclad 2 is not a lacquer! To put it simply, it is a metallic, that is held in suspension, with a alcohol based chemical.
2. The surface you spray it over, has to be smooth as glass, for best results. Weather that involves, wetsanding, recoating, and a coat of a gloss top coat, this will help the look.
3. Do not spray over a Lacquer based black! (you might think this would be the best option, since it says it's a lacquer right? Go back to step 1!) It will not stick! It wipes off like powder.
4. Spray an Enamel based black (or alclad's black) first, make sure it's as slick as you an get it, wait for it to cure good, than apply the alclad 2 paint.
5. After waiting several days, you can apply Future floor wax, by Pledge. Yes they have changed the bottle, but it's the same product modeler's have used before. Some say it kills the look! It does take away from the look a little bit, but nothing like a solvent based clear. Future floor wax is like a water based coating, so it does not attack the chrome finish, like other clear's do.
6. You cannot apply lacquer clear, or urethane (2 part automotive clear) over top the alclad 2! Not from a distance!, Not in a tack coat!, Not in a small tack coat, spraying far away, or upside down, than applying a thick coat! IT WILL NOT WORK! That also goes for the House of Kolor chrome paint as well! It react's to the clear, by turning a dark grey silver! It sucks! This goes for the Enamel chrome paint's as well.
7. Right now, where I live, it's about 30 degree's. So if I was to go outside, spray gloss black enamel, over my project, the paint will wrinkle! Go ahead!, try it! It sucks, but it's the nature of enamel paint! Even if you paint indoors, with a good working temperature, it can still wrinkle! The reason is the enamel not only needs good airflow, but heat, and the sun!
8. If you want to tackle using enamel's in the winter, you need to try out some idea's. I made a little cabinet area, with a front opening. Then I put a small electric space heater inside. Using this as a little oven of sorts, to hang parts that were painted over top the heater. I tried this technique with Krylon Fusion spray can enamel, in 8 hour shifts, for 2 days (keeping a watchful eye to make sure nothing would catch on fire!) and it provided a great cureing for the paint. If you want to try this, PLEASE BE CAREFUL!! KEEP YOUR EYEBALLS ON IT!!! Space heaters can be dangerous, without painted parts hanging over top of them!
There is a difference between, dry, and cure, when it comes to enamel paint! Dry is when you can pick up the object, but, it can still finger print. this happens, because the top of the paint is dry. But, underneath, it's still trying to solidify (cure!). In the winter, on the East coast, this could take months!
I think this is a very big problem, for some of the enamel chrome paint's as well! No sun, no heat, and very dry air (without any good amount of humidity), equals, no cure!
I have used Testor's chrome paint (enamel!) before in the summer time, and had no problems. But I also let it sit out in the sun, with heat as it's friend, and it's cured! I tried this on the Neuralizer project, applied very light coats, let it sit for a month! But without some summer heat, and sun, their was no cure! So it smudged, and finger printed!
Back in the day's of when enamel's where used on cars, they would use a catalyst, or a gloss hardner. This made the finish cure, within a day or so. without it, it could take month's or years, before it was finally cured. Which also meant, they could not wetsand and buff the vehicle! It would turn into a gummy mess!
Why am I going into such detail about enamel? Because it's what has to go underneath the alclad 2 paint!
Below are some pictures, of the alclad 2 paint, applied over a plastic spoon. I started with a lacquer primer (which could be wetsanded with 600 grit for a smoother finish), applied Krylon Fussion gloss black paint. I hung this over the space heater, for a couple days, to get a better cure. Than finished with alclad 2 paint. It could look better, but it gives you an idea, of how it looks.
I tried using Future floor wax, by spraying it through my Iwata HP-CS, airbrush. It did not need any reduction, in my opinion. I had to turn down my air pressure, to keep it from running. I noticed it did dull it a little bit, but for the protection it provides, I think it was worth it. The alclad 2 paint does dry pretty good, but you can scratch the finish. Not to mention, it will rub off, if you try hard enough.
I do not have pictures of the finish after the Future floor wax. But when I get everything assembled, I will make a video!!
Hopefully I have helped answer some question's! If not, just ask! I've been messing with this paint, (as well as many other paint's, like base coat, clear coat, for over 15 years!) for month's.
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O.k.!, Here's a video!, but I just have a digital camera to record with!
I know it's not as good as I would have liked, but, I learned a lot! So, if I make another, It should be much better (especially the finish! needs to be perfectly smooth!). That and I would move the switches on the top side, next to the flash switch!
Hopefully it all makes since!
Poor mans Neuralizer! MIB The RPF - YouTube
I know it's not as good as I would have liked, but, I learned a lot! So, if I make another, It should be much better (especially the finish! needs to be perfectly smooth!). That and I would move the switches on the top side, next to the flash switch!
Hopefully it all makes since!
Poor mans Neuralizer! MIB The RPF - YouTube
DrMcoy
Sr Member
sweet. nice job.
PM me and let me know how much you would charge to make one that had the blue light with flash only. In fact, I'm happy to cut out the red part for you and even paint the thing -- I just need you to install blue light and flash. Can these 2 things be done without having to extend the thing entire way? By this, I mean can it extend only a far as it should? does this make sense?
PM me and let me know how much you would charge to make one that had the blue light with flash only. In fact, I'm happy to cut out the red part for you and even paint the thing -- I just need you to install blue light and flash. Can these 2 things be done without having to extend the thing entire way? By this, I mean can it extend only a far as it should? does this make sense?
IRMacGuyver
New Member
well you guys can be pretty rude to noobs. It turns people off and they don't wanna come back. It's almost as bad here as some of the car mod forums I've been to. A lot of people are used to forums that get posts every couple of minutes cause none of the users have any life outside of the internet so places like this move too slowly for them. Heck sometimes noobs even get berated for bumping an old thread while other times they get berated for making a new thread when there is already an old one about the same thing. It's paradoxical.
I just came to this thread because I wanted to see about making a neuralyzer from scrap. I wondered if anyone had done it before with any good quality. Personally right now I'm not interested in repurposing a toy. I care more about building something from scratch than being screen accurate. Though maybe I'd need a toy anyway for the circuit. But really all I want it to do is pop up and flash. All the rest is kinda extra and could wait for a mark 2 model.
One thing I just can't remember is if it flashed red in the first movie or if it was only red before the flash.
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If you can make one from scratch, go for it! I just used the toy, because it was cheap, fairly accurate, and
Inexpensive.
What you have to take into consideration, is the flash circuit. That's one of the main reasons, mine does not go, up and down. Other than that, I'm sure you could rig something up, with a spring. I had thought
of using a toilet paper holder.
The first movie, had a red led, before flash (if I'm not mistaken), and had some different little details. The second movie, has a blue led, before flash. This is what the FE version is built upon.
I will say the folks at Factory Entertainment, really had their hands full, with the accuracy of their neuralyzer. They put alot of effort, time, and research in making the neuralyzer, movie accurate. Having said that the mechanics are just as much of a challenge, as the circuit involved.
Inexpensive.
What you have to take into consideration, is the flash circuit. That's one of the main reasons, mine does not go, up and down. Other than that, I'm sure you could rig something up, with a spring. I had thought
of using a toilet paper holder.
The first movie, had a red led, before flash (if I'm not mistaken), and had some different little details. The second movie, has a blue led, before flash. This is what the FE version is built upon.
I will say the folks at Factory Entertainment, really had their hands full, with the accuracy of their neuralyzer. They put alot of effort, time, and research in making the neuralyzer, movie accurate. Having said that the mechanics are just as much of a challenge, as the circuit involved.
stahlnacht
New Member
Thanks for sharing the pics, I'm planning on cosplaying as an Agent in an upcoming con. One of my friends made his own neuralyzer, so I thought that I'd try my hand at making one for myself (and not bug him).
DrMcoy
Sr Member
go on ebay and search for "mib neuralizer" -- they have toys from Universal Theme Park that look pretty good, light up and cost $25 or so. If you want to build it yourself, by all means, go for it, because building something yourself can be fun...but if you simply need something quick and easy for cosplay that looks the part, the toy is pretty decent.
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