Mib neuralyzer toys
- Thread starter DrMcoy
- Start date
Bartimaeus
New Member
Alright, I'm finished, at least for now. Made some mistakes during the building process, so it's not as pretty as it could have been, but I'm satisfied with the results. I found a broken digital camera at a thrift store for $1 that I scavenged the mode selection dial and the shutter button from. I was going to use the flash from it as well, but couldn't get it to work since it took a digital signal. Tried a red LED flash, wasn't satisfied with the result. Ended up buying a disposable camera from Safeway for $7, and with some slightly sketchy re-soldering managed to move enough of the parts over to be able to cut the circuit board for the flash small enough that it would fit in the tube.
I installed a small switch where the molded one was, which charges the capacitor for the flash. The shutter button pushes the original flash switch (two pieces of copper: the small switches won't cut it. I had some cool arcing and smoke effects though) and sets off the flash. The top dial spins and doesn't do anything else. Was going to cover the symbols but decided they looked better from a distance. The middle dial is purely cosmetic and doesn't move and was made from the number of shots remaining dial in the disposable camera.
There wasn't enough room to fit everything in the top part like I was hoping, the battery hangs out the end. But I just decided that it was better to have the flash than the spring mechanism, which I couldn't think of a good catch for anyways. If anyone is interested in making theirs spring loaded I found that a 3/4" nylon end plug fits the end of the sliding tube perfectly, with a tiny amount of trimming where the tube is flat on one side. I also found a spring that was long enough and pushed the tube out to the proper spot before there were electronics in it. I'll attach a photo I took of the item number for it with the rest of the photos.
Oh, tip for getting rid of the plastic dials: drill a hole in the center first and then make it bigger with a dremel tool. I was trying to use the dremel to sand them down at first and made several unnecessary scratches doing so.
Also here is a video of it in action (sorry for the crappy video, my camera didn't like the flash and wouldn't focus): Neuralyzer Toy Upgrade - YouTube
I installed a small switch where the molded one was, which charges the capacitor for the flash. The shutter button pushes the original flash switch (two pieces of copper: the small switches won't cut it. I had some cool arcing and smoke effects though) and sets off the flash. The top dial spins and doesn't do anything else. Was going to cover the symbols but decided they looked better from a distance. The middle dial is purely cosmetic and doesn't move and was made from the number of shots remaining dial in the disposable camera.
There wasn't enough room to fit everything in the top part like I was hoping, the battery hangs out the end. But I just decided that it was better to have the flash than the spring mechanism, which I couldn't think of a good catch for anyways. If anyone is interested in making theirs spring loaded I found that a 3/4" nylon end plug fits the end of the sliding tube perfectly, with a tiny amount of trimming where the tube is flat on one side. I also found a spring that was long enough and pushed the tube out to the proper spot before there were electronics in it. I'll attach a photo I took of the item number for it with the rest of the photos.
Oh, tip for getting rid of the plastic dials: drill a hole in the center first and then make it bigger with a dremel tool. I was trying to use the dremel to sand them down at first and made several unnecessary scratches doing so.
Also here is a video of it in action (sorry for the crappy video, my camera didn't like the flash and wouldn't focus): Neuralyzer Toy Upgrade - YouTube
DrMcoy
Sr Member
thanks for sharing pics and video -- for a carry-around piece, it looks great, especially for halloween parties. most people will never know whether knobs are accurate or not, and will overlook fact that it does not "flip" open. making it flash is the most important feature you could build into such a piece as that is the fun "action" people will remember from the movie the most...and allows you to interact with people to pretend to erase their minds -- it allows them to have fun playing along.
have fun at your parties or simply playing around with it at school or work.
have fun at your parties or simply playing around with it at school or work.
I was just finishing up some of the electronics, on my "poor mans" Neuralyzer.
I'm installing all the electronics, in the bottom, so I can put some smd led's, and flash in the top. If you wanted to free up some room, you could use a N size battery. It's 1.5 volt's, and seems to work pretty good in place of a AA battery. I still will not be able to make it open and close, but I will have to make a separate post when finished.
I'm installing all the electronics, in the bottom, so I can put some smd led's, and flash in the top. If you wanted to free up some room, you could use a N size battery. It's 1.5 volt's, and seems to work pretty good in place of a AA battery. I still will not be able to make it open and close, but I will have to make a separate post when finished.
When I finish wireing it up, and put on some paint, I would be glad to!
Onkelpsycho
Sr Member
My disguise neuralizer just arrived and I have the same plan...
Because it should beo nly a display piece, I think the flash effect would be enough... Of course a spring effect would be nice, too, but it was only the idea of a few days work for the cold days... I think a good paintjob is the most important on this thing...
Because it should beo nly a display piece, I think the flash effect would be enough... Of course a spring effect would be nice, too, but it was only the idea of a few days work for the cold days... I think a good paintjob is the most important on this thing...
I'm still waiting on the Testors chrome paint to dry! Been about a month! So I just ordered some Alclad 2! May just have to go that route....From now on!!
I had enough room for smd leds on the top, and the flash circuit, in the bottom, along with the battery. So no spring activation! I tried!
as soon as I fix the paint problem, I'll post pics
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Onkelpsycho
Sr Member
I think I will use 2 bright LEDs for the top, maybe there is space for the green one... Another thing would be to find a fitting switch to activate the flash effect...
I dont know if I change the buttons, but maybe its enough to use some kind of waterslide decals for it...
is your paint waterbased chrome paint?!?
I had the idea to use classic silver, but chrome would be a little bit better...
Is it really necessary to screw the endcap off? It is just glued on the two half pieces, but it looks like, it is too strong...
We'll see... Respect to the prop makers who made this little bas***... :lol Tough job... And I thought a PKE or proton gun would be har to putt all these electronics in...
I dont know if I change the buttons, but maybe its enough to use some kind of waterslide decals for it...
is your paint waterbased chrome paint?!?
I had the idea to use classic silver, but chrome would be a little bit better...
Is it really necessary to screw the endcap off? It is just glued on the two half pieces, but it looks like, it is too strong...
We'll see... Respect to the prop makers who made this little bas***... :lol Tough job... And I thought a PKE or proton gun would be har to putt all these electronics in...
I think I will use 2 bright LEDs for the top, maybe there is space for the green one... Another thing would be to find a fitting switch to activate the flash effect...
I dont know if I change the buttons, but maybe its enough to use some kind of waterslide decals for it...
is your paint waterbased chrome paint?!?
I had the idea to use classic silver, but chrome would be a little bit better...
Is it really necessary to screw the endcap off? It is just glued on the two half pieces, but it looks like, it is too strong...
We'll see... Respect to the prop makers who made this little bas***... :lol Tough job... And I thought a PKE or proton gun would be har to putt all these electronics in...
I used Testors chrome (enamel) paint, applied over gloss black. It looks more like a polished aluminum. I could give all the details as to why it is not curing, but it's pointless! You can't clear coat with anything! Cause it turns dull grey.....period. Weather you use Testors laquer, or other brands. It just won't work!
Just a little rant about House of Kolor chrome paint. Bottom line, doesn't work! As soon as you apply the clear, it turns grey silver. I have read their tech sheets inside and out, and followed all their stupid rules for custom paint work. Does not work!
So! I thought I would try the Testors chrome (enamel) paint, but it did just what I thought it would do. I just received Alclad 2 chrome paint in the mail today, so if I have to, I will remove the enamel chrome. Then spray it with the lacquer Alclad 2 chrome!
The problem with enamels is they need time to fully cure, which can take alot of time. Even more from a spray can, because enamel needs activated. Where as lacquer dries fast. Usually I use automotive basecoat/clearcoat. Much easier to work with, but when it comes to the chrome, it just doesn't work!
The plastic top is glued on! It will not unscrew! I removed the top of mine by using a dremol tool, to cut the section painted red out (very carefully!). Then I was able to remove the back cover piece, and cut the area where the flash would go.
As far as a switch for the flash, I used a very small spring activated switch, mounted on the bottom of the left side, below the fake knob
For the back knob section, be sure to sand the sutface with at least 600 grit, before painting. This will help the paint from lifting, when you remove the tape! Than tape off the knob area, and spray with (lacquer) semi-gloss black. Then use a circle template to trace out and cut circle masks for the dials. Once they are covered, spary the surface with chrome,(but never really chrome paint!) then remove tape masks!
I used a 1/16 drill bit, for the dials, then lined up the smd, leds, from the back. Oh, and drill the holes in the dials, before the paint work.
I will try to post some pics tonight!
O.k. Here's some pics!
Cutting out the top with a Dremel tool. Than carefully sanding down the surface, until it looks right! I also glued in a plastic piece, for the strobe to mount in place better.
These are the tiny switches I used, that I picked up at Radio Shack. The DPDT switch is for the Leds, and to turn on the strobe circuit. The other switch is what trips the flash!
The circuit board was to wide, so I had to cut away at the board, so it would fit inside the bottom tube. In doing this, I also had to reroute the circuit board wires. Than I covered it with glue, from a glue gun. this held the wires in place after soldering, and prevented me from getting shocked all the time!
The knobs were to tall, which made them rub on the inside of the tube. So I sanded them down with 180 grit, to 320, than 400 grit to remove any scratches that might show up after painting!
Here is one of the smd led's ready to be installed. I just used the glue gun to hold them in place. Not my favorite choice for mounting, but I thought I might have to trouble shoot. Which I did! so good call on my part!
Here is the strope, with reflector mounted. I installed it vertically, cause there was not enough room any other way. It still works just the same! I used a small piece of clear plastic, that I heated up over the stove, than wraped around the tube of the body to shape it, for the cover of the lens. It's just not ready to install yet
Here is everything painted with Testors spray can chrome paint. I love the look, but it's junk!
Cutting out the top with a Dremel tool. Than carefully sanding down the surface, until it looks right! I also glued in a plastic piece, for the strobe to mount in place better.
These are the tiny switches I used, that I picked up at Radio Shack. The DPDT switch is for the Leds, and to turn on the strobe circuit. The other switch is what trips the flash!
The circuit board was to wide, so I had to cut away at the board, so it would fit inside the bottom tube. In doing this, I also had to reroute the circuit board wires. Than I covered it with glue, from a glue gun. this held the wires in place after soldering, and prevented me from getting shocked all the time!
The knobs were to tall, which made them rub on the inside of the tube. So I sanded them down with 180 grit, to 320, than 400 grit to remove any scratches that might show up after painting!
Here is one of the smd led's ready to be installed. I just used the glue gun to hold them in place. Not my favorite choice for mounting, but I thought I might have to trouble shoot. Which I did! so good call on my part!
Here is the strope, with reflector mounted. I installed it vertically, cause there was not enough room any other way. It still works just the same! I used a small piece of clear plastic, that I heated up over the stove, than wraped around the tube of the body to shape it, for the cover of the lens. It's just not ready to install yet
Here is everything painted with Testors spray can chrome paint. I love the look, but it's junk!
O.k. Here are some pics from my phone (8 mp and they still look like crap!)
It gives you an idea how bright the smd leds are. Not to mention, they take up much less room!
If you look closely at the bottom left side, you can see the spring activated switch, where the Male,Alien, Female, settings are.
Here is the bright blue smd led mounted in the top, projecting down. This stays on until you decide to "Flashy thingy" someone. Which is very blinding with this flash strobe!
As far as materials go, I spent less than $15.00 for this build.
I purchased the camera strobe circuit, out of a reusable 35mm camera, from the Dollar Store. The smd leds, I already had on hand, and the switches were a couple bucks. I replaced the 1.5 AA battery, with a N battery, to save space. I used model railroad wire throughout the project, which saves alot of space! Without that small gauge wire, I couldn't have wired it all up. I've used this wire for many projects, and have had no issues with it burning up. That doesn't mean it has it's limitations, but I try out the circuit first, to make sure there are no problems! Well I think that's it! I will post some pics of it completely assembled, maybe even a video if need be.
It gives you an idea how bright the smd leds are. Not to mention, they take up much less room!
If you look closely at the bottom left side, you can see the spring activated switch, where the Male,Alien, Female, settings are.
Here is the bright blue smd led mounted in the top, projecting down. This stays on until you decide to "Flashy thingy" someone. Which is very blinding with this flash strobe!
As far as materials go, I spent less than $15.00 for this build.
I purchased the camera strobe circuit, out of a reusable 35mm camera, from the Dollar Store. The smd leds, I already had on hand, and the switches were a couple bucks. I replaced the 1.5 AA battery, with a N battery, to save space. I used model railroad wire throughout the project, which saves alot of space! Without that small gauge wire, I couldn't have wired it all up. I've used this wire for many projects, and have had no issues with it burning up. That doesn't mean it has it's limitations, but I try out the circuit first, to make sure there are no problems! Well I think that's it! I will post some pics of it completely assembled, maybe even a video if need be.
Thanks! I'm sure I could make another. The hardest part was wireing up all the leds! I'm sure I could install a flash unit, along with the blue led. I can't say I could make it open and close, because the circuit, along with the capacitor, and battery takes up alot of room in the bottom. But that's the trade off of a flash that lights up a room!
Other than that, I just need to fix the paint problem. Then I can post a video of it in action!
NakedMoleRat
Master Member
Great job. I got a disguise toy as well, planning to do the same.
Thank you sir!
I going crazy waiting for the new J2 gun release! Let alone the new gun, and neuralyzer! I'm waiting for something stupid to happen, to take my play money!:lol
I going crazy waiting for the new J2 gun release! Let alone the new gun, and neuralyzer! I'm waiting for something stupid to happen, to take my play money!:lol
Onkelpsycho
Sr Member
The only fear I have is, that everything looks just bad at the end, and I will throw everything out of the window and will do something stupid like get a nauralizer for $500... lol:lol
Very cool pics... For the strobe effect I like to have something what comes very close to the natural form the plastic part have now...
Maybe I should get 3 or 4 more if something gets broken... :lol Or cast it... :lol
We'll see...
lol:lolVery cool pics... For the strobe effect I like to have something what comes very close to the natural form the plastic part have now...
Maybe I should get 3 or 4 more if something gets broken... :lol Or cast it... :lol
We'll see...
NakedMoleRat
Master Member
I'm thinking about vac-metalizing mine, if I can find a decent DIY kit. I have never had success with chrome paint. It looks great, until you touch it! :unsure
Onkelpsycho
Sr Member
Don't touch it... :lol
I never used chrome spray, because everyone told me not to use it... I just want to try the first time on my Indy Idol, but I stayed away from these crome spray cans, so I have no idea how it will look... What does companies use for their toys, which need chrome? I remember the pastic Ecto-1 model car. I had chrome parts, so the Terminator 2 blu ray endoskull... ?!?
I never used chrome spray, because everyone told me not to use it... I just want to try the first time on my Indy Idol, but I stayed away from these crome spray cans, so I have no idea how it will look... What does companies use for their toys, which need chrome? I remember the pastic Ecto-1 model car. I had chrome parts, so the Terminator 2 blu ray endoskull... ?!?
