Method to simulate Kydex "haircell" texture

[turner3d]

Does anyone have any experience in simulating a Kydex haircell texture with paint or other means? I'm looking to duplicate originally vacuformed Star Trek TOS props with 3d printed versions. I know about the "fuzzy skin" thing, but I don't think it will cut it. I've looked at VHT "Wrinkle Plus" paint and some others, but was wondering if anyone else has already gone down this road.

 

[Duncanator]

I've tried the VHT wrinkle paint, and it gives something kinda' like the Kydex texture, but different. The wrinkle paint reminds me of old machines or camera bodies. It also can be more or less wrinkly depending on how much you apply. A heavy coat will wrinkle more, and of course a lighter coat will wrinkle less. I found that letting it dry in the warm sun gave the best results. Also got best results by applying one heavy layer, rather than multiply light coats.

You could experiment with the wrinkle paint to see if it'll work for you. I'd love to see what you come up with for your communicator. I ended up using textured ABS for mine.

 

[renaissance_man]

What about spraying a wet coat of black and dabbing the paint with some twine/ string when the paint is semi dry, so that it makes an impression without getting the stringe stuck into the paint, could build that effect up in a couple of layers.

 

[corranhornjje]

I would definitely give the the fuzzy skin 3d setting a try. There are settings you can tweak on it I believe to adjust the depth and frequency of the pattern. These are the settings available in Cura.

 

[turner3d]

I would definitely give the the fuzzy skin 3d setting a try. There are settings you can tweak on it I believe to adjust the depth and frequency of the pattern. These are the settings available in Cura.

View attachment 1903391

I've played with fuzzy skin in Orca, and a big problem with it is that it only seems to really do its thing on vertical surfaces, and I can't seem to get anything out of it that feels close. I have tons of reference material - maybe I'm being too picky, but I really want to figure out something that at least feels similar

 

[Duncanator]

Here's what the ABS texture looks like before it is vacuformed. Would that work for you?

 

[turner3d]

Here's what the ABS texture looks like before it is vacuformed. Would that work for you?


View attachment 1903490

That would absolutely work, but I'm not vacuforming - I'll be FDM printing the body and am trying to figure out post-processing to simulate something similar.

 

[Duncanator]

That would absolutely work, but I'm not vacuforming - I'll be FDM printing the body and am trying to figure out post-processing to simulate something similar.

Aaah! I getcha now.

 

[renaissance_man]

That would absolutely work, but I'm not vacuforming - I'll be FDM printing the body and am trying to figure out post-processing to simulate something similar.

If accuracy in replicating the Comm down to the surface texture is a priority wouldn't it be easier to build a small vacuum former and form some kydex sheet over a buck?

A quick YouTube search yielded results for a couple of homemade table top Vacuum corners.

Haircell Kydex sheet

 

[turner3d]

If accuracy in replicating the Comm down to the surface texture is a priority wouldn't it be easier to build a small vacuum former and form some kydex sheet over a buck?

A quick YouTube search yielded results for a couple of homemade table top Vacuum corners.

Haircell Kydex sheet

I'm look to make something potentially repeatable, and I'm squeezing quite a bit of stuff inside (battery, clock movement, buck converter, sound board, speaker, magnet, reed switch, etc). If I can figure out a way to simulate (doesn't have to be perfect) a haircell with paint, a 3d-printable chassis will make my life a whole lot easier than trying to epoxy everything in place in a potentially inconsistent vacuformed shell. The original props even suffered from this - the bottom shell of the alpha hero prop was shorter than the others due to slightly under-pulling and having to have the edges trimmed off too far. I think the first thing I'll try is a thin coat of wrinkle paint. I'll also see what I can do with building up regular paint and twine imprints as per your earlier suggestion.

 

[N2darkness]

Depending on the nozzle size of you printer, I think adding this texture to the surface of your .stl file could work as well. It would take longer to print to as the layer height would have to be quite small, but I think it possible by someone who knows how to add it in blender.

 

[turner3d]

Depending on the nozzle size of you printer, I think adding this texture to the surface of your .stl file could work as well. It would take longer to print to as the layer height would have to be quite small, but I think it possible by someone who knows how to add it in blender.

Interesting idea - I've never tried a .2mm nozzle because I've heard so many horror stories about how much they clog up. It would definitely be fun to try

 

[N2darkness]

I'm still rather new to 3D printing, but even a .4 nozzle with a layer height of .08 is still rather impressive the amount of detail and texture it can bring out on a good model.

 

[turner3d]

I'm still rather new to 3D printing, but even a .4 nozzle with a layer height of .08 is still rather impressive the amount of detail and texture it can bring out on a good model.

It really is! Especially if you slow the outer wall speed down nice and slow. Pretty results are all about patience on an FDM printer.

 

[corranhornjje]

I run an old CR10s with a .2 nozzle and my layer height at .16 with some basic cheapo Elegoo PLA. I tried .12 but the model I was working on just couldn't quite cut it, so it's certainly achievable.