Metal Movie Cap Shield on a budget **DONE!! FINAL PICS ON PAGE 4

So I've run into a problem. On the back side of the clearcoated shield (Steel saucer) there have been fingerprint sized smudges forming UNDER the clearcoat. I stripped the back of the shield, degreased it good and re-clearcoated it. It looked great for a week and now smudges are forming again! And now I have one on the front of the shield in a clead ring. AAAAGGG! I don't want smudges!! If I can't resolve this I'm afraid the shield will look like crap in a year. .... any ideas?
 
Valor, did you do any type of prep before painting the shield? I know you said you didn't use any kind of primer, but did you do any type of cleaning? It could be skin oils that are affecting the paint...
 
I cleaned the snot out of it with degreaser. It's possible the prints are ON the clearcoat, but A) that makes no sense to me, and B) I can't seem to buff them out of the clear. As I test I smushed my fingers all over an area of the back of the shield to see if prints appear.

I'm tempted to give up and battle damage the whole shield. Bullet marks, nicks, dirt ... But I don't know if I got the guts.
 
I go to pick up my sled tomorrow... Can't wait to get started on this! Any tips on the initial paint removal?
 
Kevin, I used Klean-Strip aircraft grade paint stripper, it was $11.99 at O'Reilys autoparts. When appliying the stripper, you are going to want to apply thick globs of it all over the disc, then let it sit for 20-30 minutes, and you should start to see the paint bubble up. It should then scrape off with a plastic squeegee and a little elbow grease. You may need to do this once or twice depending on how well you strip it the first time.

Once all the paint is off, you're aren't going to want to let the sled sit around long before you paint it, or it will start to rust. I only had the paint off mine for a day or two and little rust spots started appearing. This is why a clear coat is critical; I used Dupli-Color lacquer, it holds the high luster look without polishing and buffing, but isn't as durable as I'd like it to be.

Valor, I'm not sure what to say about your finger prints, but is it possible the grease remover didn't remove the grease? I cleaned my shield with acetone before painting, and with rubbing alcohol in between each coat of paint, I have yet to see any finger prints showing through. That probably doesn't help your problem at all though, but maybe my information can be used to prevent others from having the same problem.
 
I threw a couple more coats of clear on the back. The smudges are gone for now ... we'll see how long it lasts. :) Not sure how to explain it.
 
My shield is coming along nicely, I can't see to locate the 1/8 aluminum in a large enough size for the back braces. Did you guys buy these at a regular store?
 
My shield is coming along nicely, I can't see to locate the 1/8 aluminum in a large enough size for the back braces. Did you guys buy these at a regular store?

i used 1/16th for my back brackets, which you can find at any Lowes/Home Depot pretty regularly.
 
I actually used what is called a "sign blank" ... it was a 24" x 24" square piece of 1/8" aluminum with holes drilled in it. Sign companies use them for stop signs, etc. Might want to call a sign company and ask how much for one. I had one laying around from a project.
 
Sold my Shield to a cool local guy. On to Version 2.0
 
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Here's mine. I need to do a lot of wet sanding and polish it up. I haven't decided if I am going to make all of the straps and and braces on the back, since I plan on hanging it on my pool room wall and I am having a hard time locating the aluminum stock, let alone actually fabricating the braces...

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BRAVO!!!! The wet sanding makes ALL the difference in the world! Really brings the color back out.
 
Re: Metal Movie Cap Shield on a budget **FOR SALE IN JY**

Seriously :)
 
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