Material For Armour.......Best Choice?

[Drac]

Hi all

Sorry if this has been discussed before there just seems to be so many opinions I wanted to judge what's bing used these days.

I'm looking at starting a second costume at some point (when money allows), but I am interested in using something different, I've used the Pep method before but the costume I'm wanting to do has no pep files in existence . I've heard a lot of people talking about Sintra/Foamex Board, and also vac-formed styrene and such like, so I'm wondering what people think as some say Sintra/Foamex is rubbish for sanding others say it's good?

I am wanting to have a more sturdy armour, something stiff rather than foam, much like Freya Willia's N7 Armour here, it has rigidity, but maintaining movability.

Anyway if anyone has some pointers I'm all ears, I realise I haven't stated what the costume is and that is intentional, I'm keeping it under wraps at the moment but I will post up when I hope to start it

 

[Armatus Cosplay]

I'm personally a huge fan of Sintra, the issue with it is the thickness. If you're using 1/8" or less, it's not very dense, and can be scratched. It's when you use thicknesses above 1/8" that it starts to become dense. I used 1/4" Sintra for my dark knight build, and those plates are very solid, with still a slight bit of flex in places, and huge impact resistance, as well as good scratch resistance. Alternatively, you could use ABS, which is slightly harder to work with, but infinitely stronger then just about any other material for making armor (other then like carbon fiber), as it's super dense, still provides moderate flex, scratch and impact resistant, and is nearly unbreakable in thicknesses of 1/8" and above. For anything I had to make that was less then 1/4" for my build, I used ABS, and instantly fell in love with it. I should have made the whole suit out of it, but, oh well....

 

[Drac]

Thanks for the input I'll have a look at the ABS. The armour I have in mind does have a fair amount of curvature to the shoulders so I need something that can be manipulated fairly easily, or at least that will give a good smooth curve.

As I said above this will be my first 'scratch build' when it comes to armour, the under clothing is going to be fun also as I think I'm going for a mix between leather in some parts and a lighter material for the rest, this also will be a first for me

I can't wait

I'm personally a huge fan of Sintra, the issue with it is the thickness. If you're using 1/8" or less, it's not very dense, and can be scratched. It's when you use thicknesses above 1/8" that it starts to become dense. I used 1/4" Sintra for my dark knight build, and those plates are very solid, with still a slight bit of flex in places, and huge impact resistance, as well as good scratch resistance. Alternatively, you could use ABS, which is slightly harder to work with, but infinitely stronger then just about any other material for making armor (other then like carbon fiber), as it's super dense, still provides moderate flex, scratch and impact resistant, and is nearly unbreakable in thicknesses of 1/8" and above. For anything I had to make that was less then 1/4" for my build, I used ABS, and instantly fell in love with it. I should have made the whole suit out of it, but, oh well....

 

[division 6]

I used to be in a group that did Vac-formed armor.
We mainly used HIPS (High Impact Styrene) but for some of our suits went with ABS.
HIPS will give you nice sharp edges where ABS is a little harder to pull.
HIPS will become brittle and crack under stress over time especially if exposed to UV light. (1/8" stands up pretty good)
ABS is flexible but absorbs moisture and has to be dried before using or it will bubble and orange peel on the surface.

We made Colonial Marine armor and Moria Orc armor in ABS.
With HIPS Storm / Desert Troopers, Snow Troopers, AT- AT Pilot, AT-ST Pilot, General Veers, Boba Fett, Rebel Pilot, Rebel Commando, Jin Roh Police, Darth Vader Armor, C-3PO, Lara Croft accessories, accessories for many other things.

I've only used Sintra for small projects and didn't like the porous center under the hard surface.

For your tooling (bucks) I suggest Ultracal 30.
For things with sharp edges and flat surfaces I suggest acrylic and for large curves and wounded areas acrylic (cast not extruded) or even PVC pipe.

 

[division 6]

Easy to make vac table that can be used for anything from 4"x4" up to 24"x36" which should be large enough for just about anything you want to make.

Just attach a shop vac.

 

[SmilingOtter]

If the armor is fantasy-based, I've seen a lot of folks get good results from steel...

 

[Drac]

I used to be in a group that did Vac-formed armor.
We mainly used HIPS (High Impact Styrene) but for some of our suits went with ABS.
HIPS will give you nice sharp edges where ABS is a little harder to pull.
HIPS will become brittle and crack under stress over time especially if exposed to UV light. (1/8" stands up pretty good)
ABS is flexible but absorbs moisture and has to be dried before using or it will bubble and orange peel on the surface.

We made Colonial Marine armor and Moria Orc armor in ABS.
With HIPS Storm / Desert Troopers, Snow Troopers, AT- AT Pilot, AT-ST Pilot, General Veers, Boba Fett, Rebel Pilot, Rebel Commando, Jin Roh Police, Darth Vader Armor, C-3PO, Lara Croft accessories, accessories for many other things.

I've only used Sintra for small projects and didn't like the porous center under the hard surface.

For your tooling (bucks) I suggest Ultracal 30.
For things with sharp edges and flat surfaces I suggest acrylic and for large curves and wounded areas acrylic (cast not extruded) or even PVC pipe.

Easy to make vac table that can be used for anything from 4"x4" up to 24"x36" which should be large enough for just about anything you want to make.

Just attach a shop vac.
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2848/9955127526_0d71b756a5_o.jpg

Wow sounds good, thanks for the info and the vac table, I looked at this option a year or so ago but nothing came of it, as I think I got side tracked lol,
this is all good info for me though as it gives me a lot to think about as to where I'm going with it, so thank you for the input :thumbsup

If the armor is fantasy-based, I've seen a lot of folks get good results from steel...

This one isn't going to be a fantasy armour, well not in The Lord of the rings sense, more so science fiction

 

[kialna]

Worbla seems popular too. Check it out on Kamui Cosplay's website. She has tutorials.

 

[FANGS]

I've used Sintra and it's not my fav but it definitely is useful at times. I find that I don't like how the edges finish, and that could be 100% because I just didn't do it right, but they are definitely more porous looking than the flat surface. And remember, it gives off a toxic gas when heated so you want to be sure you use it in a well ventilated area.

I've been using Wonderflex lately and I really like working with it. Especially for stuff that is highly detailed because you can add all of the detail on in layers. Large pieces are definitely more difficult to use, at least in the beginning for me. Smaller stuff though is a breeze. Adding an inner layer of craft foam really gives stability to your piece. And "wrapping" foam matting in it gives you a really strong piece that is super light and has lots of dimension.

It all depends really on what your build is. Some plastics are just better suited for some projects over others. And sometimes the best option is a combination.

 

[Drac]

Worbla seems popular too. Check it out on Kamui Cosplay's website. She has tutorials.

I had heard some one mention that Worbla before I'll look into that too, thanks

I've used Sintra and it's not my fav but it definitely is useful at times. I find that I don't like how the edges finish, and that could be 100% because I just didn't do it right, but they are definitely more porous looking than the flat surface. And remember, it gives off a toxic gas when heated so you want to be sure you use it in a well ventilated area.

I've been using Wonderflex lately and I really like working with it. Especially for stuff that is highly detailed because you can add all of the detail on in layers. Large pieces are definitely more difficult to use, at least in the beginning for me. Smaller stuff though is a breeze. Adding an inner layer of craft foam really gives stability to your piece. And "wrapping" foam matting in it gives you a really strong piece that is super light and has lots of dimension.

It all depends really on what your build is. Some plastics are just better suited for some projects over others. And sometimes the best option is a combination.

That was one of the points someone had raised about Sintra was the edges, I do want this build to be as perfect as I can get it, I hadn't heard of Wonderflex before, so I'll have a look at that one as well thanks

 

[bikerhua]

I just read up on worbla. If it shapes at 90 degrees, I imagine one really hot day outside could really wreck your project. PVC shapes well, is very tough and takes paint well, but its HEAVY. I haven't worked with much else.

 

[inkblot]

Worbla begins to shape at 90 degrees Celcius, not Fahrenheit. You can shape it to some degree with boiling water, but it's more easily manipulated with a heat gun. Unless you plan to cook yourself inside a suit of armour of any material at ten degrees below water's boiling point, you should be fine.

 

[kialna]

Ahahahahaha sorry, I just find that misunderstanding very funny. Yes it is Celsius, not Farenheit, so you're safe.

 

[Drac]

I just read up on worbla. If it shapes at 90 degrees, I imagine one really hot day outside could really wreck your project. PVC shapes well, is very tough and takes paint well, but its HEAVY. I haven't worked with much else.

I wondered about this issue with heating and shaping plastics too, guess I got the F and C wrong too lol

Worbla begins to shape at 90 degrees Celcius, not Fahrenheit. You can shape it to some degree with boiling water, but it's more easily manipulated with a heat gun. Unless you plan to cook yourself inside a suit of armour of any material at ten degrees below water's boiling point, you should be fine.

Thanks for clearing that one up, I'm trying to kick the habit of boiling myself alive, it plays havok with your hair

Ahahahahaha sorry, I just find that misunderstanding very funny. Yes it is Celsius, not Farenheit, so you're safe.

It's them Americans fault messing about with the English language :facepalm ...............I joke of course

 

[Uridium]

I'm using Worbla to make the body-armor pieces in a Dredd 3D build at the moment.

Easy to work with but I imagine it would get expensive for a full set of armor.

 

[Drac]

This is also something I need to take into account, cost is always a big factor

I'm using Worbla to make the body-armor pieces in a Dredd 3D build at the moment.

Easy to work with but I imagine it would get expensive for a full set of armor.

 

[bikerhua]

In our defense, we haven't spoken English here in ages... But we talk American real good.:lol

 

[Drac]

thumbsup

In our defense, we haven't spoken English here in ages... But we talk American real good.:lol

 

[samurai169]

I think it all boils down to perSonal preference, what are you comfortable using what experience you have or what skills you would like to learn. Personally I like steel.

 

[inkblot]

I think it all boils down to perSonal preference, what are you comfortable using what experience you have or what skills you would like to learn. Personally I like steel.

The deciding factors for me were simply the ease of use, low barrier for entry and relative lack of waste/mess. Perhaps at some point I'll graduate to other materials, but for now I neither have the space nor the finances for the shop equipment & materials that I'd actually like to work with.