Making the Carlyle Elysium SMG

I'm intending to cover with a matt clear once its all done. Hopefully that offers some kind of protection
joberg will have some input on that as well but there is a long standing debate on how to properly use, if not at all, clear coating over metallics. I know you do plenty of these projects but I still have not had clear over metallic work for me without heat baking the metallic and still leaving 3 days in sunlight or UV to cure. Each time I use clear on metallic, ALL metallic shine is gone. Several folks said they never have an issue so I can only guess it is environmental. My Oregon versus someone elses California would likely be several days separation in curing times. I have been thinking of adding a UV cure box to my shop.
 
Putting some clear coat on metallic paint is, complicated and frustrating without a fail. Some clear coats leave a yellowish/light brown hue to your paint (o.k. for gold)...but, in the end your sheen will be gone. I've experimented with Molotow and it's the only chrome alcohol based color that works on certain plastics. Keep in mind that it takes a while before you can handle it and not having your fingerprints showing on the surface.
 
Innnteresting. OK. Maybe I need to prepare a test part before I do the whole. I;m using all Rostolean paint, and was thinking to use the matt clear which I've used with great success in the past. But hey; I've only done a couple of guns, so not like I'm an expert. Aside from the metalic, I've found Rostoleum paints to be excllent (good coverage, decent control, seem to dry fine).

I picked up the real pieces today, and can still "feel" the fingerprints want to stay there. Its not hardened yet.
A joiner piece that I coated prob 2 weeks ago is feeling dry.

If I were to bake the metalic paint, what kind of temp, and for how long?
 
greenmachines asked re sculpting, I thougt I'd share my response in case others are interested:

I was very happy with how blender worked out in the end. Yeh I had to spend time learning how to do certain things (and then promply forgot in between initial + going back to modify it), but it's sculpting was FAR better than I'd thought it would be.

I used this link to learn (found his voice listenable to, and speed was about right for me):
 
Innnteresting. OK. Maybe I need to prepare a test part before I do the whole. I;m using all Rostolean paint, and was thinking to use the matt clear which I've used with great success in the past. But hey; I've only done a couple of guns, so not like I'm an expert. Aside from the metalic, I've found Rostoleum paints to be excllent (good coverage, decent control, seem to dry fine).

I picked up the real pieces today, and can still "feel" the fingerprints want to stay there. Its not hardened yet.
A joiner piece that I coated prob 2 weeks ago is feeling dry.

If I were to bake the metalic paint, what kind of temp, and for how long?
Usually a combo of 75 to 80 degrees, moving dry air and a UV source. Those in the sun belt just put it outside and rotate it once every ten minutes but even then you need to not overheat as some areas sunlight would melt your project. The UV is far more important for certain brands but I just always do it.
 
The project is printed in ASA, given NZ temps (something like 25 deg max in summer) - would think leaving otuside would be ok? Assuming by "melt" yuo mean "because you printed in PLA"?
 
The project is printed in ASA, given NZ temps (something like 25 deg max in summer) - would think leaving otuside would be ok? Assuming by "melt" yuo mean "because you printed in PLA"?
Oh ya sorry. My 70 plus was F not C. So 22-25 would be perfect unless bugs are an issue then in a window area is fine. UV is just an excellent additional cure and some require it. We have a lot of family in Texas and that sunlight will leave you with a puddle of plastic
 
OK. Todays update. I bought some different clear and primer. The goal is to try to prep two pieces using the same technique so far. It's already somewhat derailed because I don't have exactly the same primer (which, I didn't like that much anyway). However: I'm going to prep two pieces. Sand them the same. Prime the same. Gold (with horrible R gold awful) and then I'll do my best to get them to cure. I might turn 80 before they do. THEN I'll try to clear with both Rosto-matt-clear and a Rusto-Enamel clear. Only cos I read somewhere a different material could (MUST BE DONE OR DIE YOU MUST MUST MUST) be good/better.

So. While all the parts themselves are having a paint holiday, why not mess about with other things. Try to learn some stuffs. To all that have posted ideas and got me thinking, and experimenting, my thanks. I would not have done this without you. So give yourself a pat on the back, grab *another* coffee (or a beer). If you've in Wgtn, NZ, I can provide the fluids :)
 
Here’s what I got. Oh. I should add the clear I’ve used in the past. The matt chalked clear.
 

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So here we are. One piece with one coat. Another just sanded. I’m hoping the scratched jn E for enamel stays.
 

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For reference: here are the sanded parts to date, at the time of posting. These from memory were sanded at 600. They still do not feel “hard”
 

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The above are better than a few days back. But I don’t think you could call them cured.

What I’m hoping to do then, is reproduce this. One and the same way I’ve done so far. Second in the same way prep wise but then clear coat with enamel vs whatever (I presume acrylic?) of the original matt clear I had intended. Ah. Yes. The “chalked” one.
 
This progress is going to be sloooooow. I need to properly cure the test pieces, and see the results of the enamel vs acrylic tests, before I proceed. Ofc I will do some more black paint. Actually. Maybe. Even. Right. Now :)
 
Innnteresting. OK. Maybe I need to prepare a test part before I do the whole. I;m using all Rostolean paint, and was thinking to use the matt clear which I've used with great success in the past. But hey; I've only done a couple of guns, so not like I'm an expert. Aside from the metalic, I've found Rostoleum paints to be excllent (good coverage, decent control, seem to dry fine).

I picked up the real pieces today, and can still "feel" the fingerprints want to stay there. Its not hardened yet.
A joiner piece that I coated prob 2 weeks ago is feeling dry.

If I were to bake the metalic paint, what kind of temp, and for how long?
Again, it should be a special paint that can be baked...saying that, you can always make some samples and do some dry-runs. Don't do it in you oven at home. Try to get a mini-oven for cheap. I would start at 170C and go from there.(y)
 
One of the coolest tool projects I saw on Stan Winston School was making a collapsible oven for paint and foam baking. Large fiberglass insulboard sheets, from hardware stores, cut to slot together to form a box, the metal paper backed ones. Then they place a heater next to it to blow directly into an opening on the box. I think strictly to keep it from being a fire hazard. that way you can do this in the driveway and all fumes are out of the house. The whole thing just slides apart to be stored in the garage. Keeps bugs off as well
 
One trick I've forgotten to mentioned is to dip you tacky painted piece in baby oil. Try a test piece with your sprayed gold and see how it reacts.;)
After the dip, leave it for a good 10 minutes and wipe, gently with a soft rag.
 
One trick I've forgotten to mentioned is to dip you tacky painted piece in baby oil. Try a test piece with your sprayed gold and see how it reacts.;)
After the dip, leave it for a good 10 minutes and wipe, gently with a soft rag.
This is where I always do my test runs because my memory for "brand/solvent match for that brand/catalyst match for that brand" goes gray. I remember the first time I accidentally got Olive oil on my hands while cooking and it cleared off all the residual paint on my hand. Now I have a bottle next to the sink.
 
The "gently wipe" comes from previous experience.... I can sense the trial and error was done with conclusive results that revealed "gently" was the right path.... ;)
 
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