Making the Carlyle Elysium SMG

[scornflake]

Right. So. Does it all fit together? Doubt it! (there's always lots of little things I've missed).

Building this: Modelling the Elysium Carlyle Droid SMG

First, lets see if the trigger mechanism fits. I've done a couple of test prints of the handle (to see how it feels/looks) and also to begin checking tolerances.

Answer: nope, because numpty here forgot to check for interferce and the pins locating the two trigger pieces interfere with the rods joining said trigger to the handle. First shot is the corrected model. 2nd shot is the "duh" reality:

 

[scornflake]

Handles look OK. Here's one in PETG. Look ma! It's nice and FLAT on the table!!!

I'm *really* interested in doing this in ASA, since it's far easier to sand. I've only got a FDM, so that's what I'm targetting for the print.
While I've printed some ASA OK, this handle is going to be ... fun. I've got a MK4S and satin plate. I've tried both the satin and PEI plates, with hairspray and without. Chamber (LAK table type with doors, heated by print bed only) at about 40deg which I've read is maybe low. Next is to disable the fan entirely (it's on 12%) and increase bed temp to 115. And also try some magigloo (on the way).

 

[scornflake]

OK. So Take #2. Try a different plate, hotter plate. Yes why not try TWO things at once (sigh, can't help myself). This plate has a generous amount of hairspray. Also, the print has mouse ears like so:

I stopped it when almost done, because it was lifting. Not as much mind you, but still lifting. A bit.

On the right is the new print. Not bad. Especially given that I've just basically randomly changed plates and not been especially scientific. My current money is on that the plate itself isn't THAT much of a deal (as long as it has some adhesion) and that the print surface/area make more of a difference. Still waiting on my magigloo to see if I can print without a 10mm brim (that's printing now). More to come.

The plate used was an "AliExpress Special" Textured plate. Cleaned with soap and hot water thoroghly. I then sprayed a generous amount of hairspray, and left to bake with the plate at 105 for 20m. I then started the print.

In my defense of other prints, the printer had been going most of the day. So the chamber was NOT cold. Likely 38+ deg when I printed the other ASA parts on the Satin sheet.

 

[scornflake]

Update!

OK. Got some Magigoo. It's better. It's not as awesome as PETG, but I think I can make it work, at least so far.
While there's a slight lift, I can clamp the pieces and glue. It'll work.

Has anyone managed to get NO lift on prints like this, in ASA, with a "pointy straight section" out off towards the edge of the print bed? Wondering if it's something I should spend time trying to improve, or if this is as good as it gets with ASA?

btw: for reference, I'm using a modified Prusament ASA High Flow (CHT) profile. Only difference is I've turned off the fan entirely, and I'm using a locally sourced ASA of "some type" (dunno what it is, who makes it).

 

[scornflake]

Just printed the rear stock, came out great!

In all of this, I've not bothered to adjust for any ASA shrinkage (apparently 1%). I'm hoping that if I do it ALL in ASA I'll have a 1% smaller rifle

 

[scornflake]

OK. A bunch more parts done. With magigoo the larger parts are also almost (alllllmost) perfectly sticking to the bed. Here's the rear handles and rear thingies, showing the gaps due to minor warping. Also added a switch location to the rear thingie handle part. But I'd already printed the RHS, sooo... yeh, might be a job for a drill/dremmel later if I can't be bothered printing another RHS

 

[scornflake]

I ended up modifying the handle to take M3 screws, and also modifying some of the front barrel parts so they key into the rifle body.

 

[scornflake]

First crack at some light sanding and filling. Went over the handle with 120 and a soft block. Them trying some glazing putty.
So far, I'd estimate sanding and filing to be prob 3x easier/quicker than PETG.

 

[scornflake]

More pics from preparing various bits. Handles are looking OK. If I look closely I can still see some of the lines (those big, flatter areas, are problematic). So might continue trying to make it right. The primer I'm using this time isn't as thick... (different brand)

 

[scornflake]

Matt black, on the trigger part, I think looks great. Only one coat. The handles were done in Matt and satin. Matt for the front. Satin on the rear. They both suck imho. They clearly need more filler (lines visible). So hmm. Ponder. I’ve run out of Matt so will run off and get some more. I’ll do a 600 wet sand and see if can make them better.

 

[scornflake]

So I forgot that asa shrinks. Ghhaaa. My carefully calibrated 16mm holes are now not. After a full workout with a file, I’ve gotten them to fit. Sigh. I should have added 1% to all prints. I didn’t.

That’s another way of saying “I just spent 1hr filing out some plastic tubes”. Go me!

I think in PETG it’d be just fine. Tight. But fine.

 

[scornflake]

Sight is coming along. I’ve done the first primer coat but forgot to take photo. What you see here is from 240 ish to 600 wet. Plus some other random rail parts.

 

[scornflake]

The rear stock continues. This is my 2nd pass at filler. It’s kinda easy to see where it didn’t work (didn’t fill/quite make it) when you come back the next day. So I just reapplied, went and worked on other parts for an hr and then came back to it. It’s better, still not perfect.

 

[scornflake]

As a aside: I’m going to reprint the rear
Thingies (attach rear handle to stock and body). The lettering came out too small for my printer and once painted …. Well, I couldn’t recover the groves well even with a sharp steel spike. So figured reprint with those in a bold font. Cross fingers.

 

[laellee]

As a aside: I’m going to reprint the rear
Thingies (attach rear handle to stock and body). The lettering came out too small for my printer and once painted …. Well, I couldn’t recover the groves well even with a sharp steel spike. So figured reprint with those in a bold font. Cross fingers.

Don't know if this helps, but when I model in stamping and maker marks on weapons, I run them at least 1.4 mm deep, and keep all lettering grooves 1mm at the narrowest; It's a lot easier for me to 'fill' those engraves in a little bit then try and score them out. I do what you did as well, I will oversize my letters (essentially bold, but I do it manually) while keeping the spacing between letters the same, and again let the primer and paints tighten them back up during finishing- works pretty good for me anyways. I also enlarge individual letter's floating details (like the pyramid in the 'A' or the two D-shapes in the B) so they are at least .8 across any dimension, I print with a .4mm nozzle and that has kept me from losing those details in my prints.

Drives me crazy when I am printing a huge boxy receiver piece that could really be printed at a .3 layer height and be fine, but then I have engrave details on the piece that really want a .16 layer height to look sharp

 

[scornflake]

Don't know if this helps, but when I model in stamping and maker marks on weapons, I run them at least 1.4 mm deep, and keep all lettering grooves 1mm at the narrowest; It's a lot easier for me to 'fill' those engraves in a little bit then try and score them out. I do what you did as well, I will oversize my letters (essentially bold, but I do it manually) while keeping the spacing between letters the same, and again let the primer and paints tighten them back up during finishing- works pretty good for me anyways. I also enlarge individual letter's floating details (like the pyramid in the 'A' or the two D-shapes in the B) so they are at least .8 across any dimension, I print with a .4mm nozzle and that has kept me from losing those details in my prints.

Drives me crazy when I am printing a huge boxy receiver piece that could really be printed at a .3 layer height and be fine, but then I have engrave details on the piece that really want a .16 layer height to look sharp

Good ideas. Unfortunately OnShape doesn't give me that kind of control. What I did in the end was to fix the width of each line (in mm), change the font to bold, and then just "hope". Eeek. Lets hope it works.

Also makes me stare at resin printers a bit more...

 

[scornflake]

Gun body now stuck together and drying

 

[scornflake]

Having some trouble with this one. I resanded and redid some filler, but it’s really not happy. I’ll let it cure overnight and give it another go tomorrow. If it doesn’t work I’ll sand it right back.

 

[scornflake]

Rear handles and stock have come out well! There’s still a tiny amount of visible lines/topology. Hmm. How picky to be?

 

[scornflake]

Let there be gold things!!!