David Charles
New Member
Hi everyone,
I'm creating my own TASM2 costume and have been trying just about everything I can to learn how to do this stuff. I've discovered a few things so far, and thought I would share. Thank you Lunaman, TJack, and others whom I'm certain I've sadly forgotten for sharing your knowledge and expertise. I will post pictures of my results soon, but for now I am waiting for things to arrive in the mail.
First, a disclaimer** I ordered my own TASM2 lens frames from TJack in the Junkyard here... If you want to save yourself some time on this first step, I would recommend his services. He sold me the lenses at a fair price and delivered them in a very timely fashion.**
However, should you wish to create your own frames, with time and patience you should be able to do this yourself. I doubt you will save any money doing this, though. FYI. First - you need to create a rough model of the frames. To do this you could use almost any material that is decently solid and will hold a shape. For example, you could use a soft wood (like Balsa) or modeling clay that will harden. You then want to pick up a few things: Oomoo 30 (or they make a quicker drying version - OOMOO® 25 and OOMOO® 30 Silicone Product Information | Smooth-On) is an example of a silicone you will need to then create your mold. Here's a video example of somebody making a mold for a bracelet: Mold making with OOMOO 30 Silicone Rubber - YouTube There are also some videos of people making molds, but the process seems relatively simple.
Basically you then pour the oomoo silicone around the original and let it set. You also want to be sure to spray your mold with the right chemicals so that it will form right and let go of your original model once it dries. Once it dries, your break/tear/cut away your casing, take the original out and you now have a mold for your lenses. You then want to fill the mold with Black Onyx (Smooth-Cast® ONYX® Black Plastic Product Information | Smooth-On), which is a hard black plastic that you can bend with heat. Once it dries, you might have to file some edges. To "curve" the lens frames, you can use a heat gun (something like this would be sufficient Wagner HT1000 1200-Watt Heat Gun-0503008 at The Home Depot) or the low setting of a stove for 10-20 seconds, which did the trick for me. What you do is warm up the plastic and I used a faceshell (also purchased from TJack) to press the frames against while it was still warm. The frames then bent to wrap around the brows and cheeks, and they held their shape once they cooled. Lunaman posted some pictures of the other steps involved with doing this which I found helpful here http://www.therpf.com/f24/lunas-ultimate-spider-man-build-orhadar-print-pic-heavy-185367/ - you will at least need some sort of dummy head. I bought one from Sally's Beauty Supply, and placed TJack's faceshell over it with some dish towels in between to fill in the space and allow me to press into it when bending the frames... but Lunaman was successful in creating a makeshift so you can get creative here. Lastly, to get that glossy look, I just coated the frames with a glossy clear coat I picked up from Michael's.
Okay - so, what about the actual lens material? I drove myself about crazy trying to figure out what would be best to get that "honeycomb" perforated look that is so clearly seen here Check Out the New 'Amazing Spider-Man 2' Costume | Rope of Silicon. Well, relax - I have found a (decently) affordable solution. This window film from here http://www.walmart.com/ip/Brewster-Mesh-Static-Cling-Window-Film/21094233 (Brewster Mesh Static Cling Window Film) with this film behind it Gila 36 in. x 78 in. Gray Glare Control Window Film-CS78 at The Home Depot (Gila Gray Glare Control Window Film). I then plan on using a spray version of E6000 (adhesive) to put a layer of clear vinyl I bought from JoAnn Fabrics.
As I've mentioned, the films are in-transit. I will post pictures as soon as I have the lenses together. If you have questions or insights in the mean time, feel free to post in here!
Best,
David
I'm creating my own TASM2 costume and have been trying just about everything I can to learn how to do this stuff. I've discovered a few things so far, and thought I would share. Thank you Lunaman, TJack, and others whom I'm certain I've sadly forgotten for sharing your knowledge and expertise. I will post pictures of my results soon, but for now I am waiting for things to arrive in the mail.
First, a disclaimer** I ordered my own TASM2 lens frames from TJack in the Junkyard here... If you want to save yourself some time on this first step, I would recommend his services. He sold me the lenses at a fair price and delivered them in a very timely fashion.**
However, should you wish to create your own frames, with time and patience you should be able to do this yourself. I doubt you will save any money doing this, though. FYI. First - you need to create a rough model of the frames. To do this you could use almost any material that is decently solid and will hold a shape. For example, you could use a soft wood (like Balsa) or modeling clay that will harden. You then want to pick up a few things: Oomoo 30 (or they make a quicker drying version - OOMOO® 25 and OOMOO® 30 Silicone Product Information | Smooth-On) is an example of a silicone you will need to then create your mold. Here's a video example of somebody making a mold for a bracelet: Mold making with OOMOO 30 Silicone Rubber - YouTube There are also some videos of people making molds, but the process seems relatively simple.
Basically you then pour the oomoo silicone around the original and let it set. You also want to be sure to spray your mold with the right chemicals so that it will form right and let go of your original model once it dries. Once it dries, your break/tear/cut away your casing, take the original out and you now have a mold for your lenses. You then want to fill the mold with Black Onyx (Smooth-Cast® ONYX® Black Plastic Product Information | Smooth-On), which is a hard black plastic that you can bend with heat. Once it dries, you might have to file some edges. To "curve" the lens frames, you can use a heat gun (something like this would be sufficient Wagner HT1000 1200-Watt Heat Gun-0503008 at The Home Depot) or the low setting of a stove for 10-20 seconds, which did the trick for me. What you do is warm up the plastic and I used a faceshell (also purchased from TJack) to press the frames against while it was still warm. The frames then bent to wrap around the brows and cheeks, and they held their shape once they cooled. Lunaman posted some pictures of the other steps involved with doing this which I found helpful here http://www.therpf.com/f24/lunas-ultimate-spider-man-build-orhadar-print-pic-heavy-185367/ - you will at least need some sort of dummy head. I bought one from Sally's Beauty Supply, and placed TJack's faceshell over it with some dish towels in between to fill in the space and allow me to press into it when bending the frames... but Lunaman was successful in creating a makeshift so you can get creative here. Lastly, to get that glossy look, I just coated the frames with a glossy clear coat I picked up from Michael's.
Okay - so, what about the actual lens material? I drove myself about crazy trying to figure out what would be best to get that "honeycomb" perforated look that is so clearly seen here Check Out the New 'Amazing Spider-Man 2' Costume | Rope of Silicon. Well, relax - I have found a (decently) affordable solution. This window film from here http://www.walmart.com/ip/Brewster-Mesh-Static-Cling-Window-Film/21094233 (Brewster Mesh Static Cling Window Film) with this film behind it Gila 36 in. x 78 in. Gray Glare Control Window Film-CS78 at The Home Depot (Gila Gray Glare Control Window Film). I then plan on using a spray version of E6000 (adhesive) to put a layer of clear vinyl I bought from JoAnn Fabrics.
As I've mentioned, the films are in-transit. I will post pictures as soon as I have the lenses together. If you have questions or insights in the mean time, feel free to post in here!
Best,
David
