Luke Hero / Cave / MoM Build - DaveP Run

Dann said:
I'll just leave this here! Using modern SMD LEDs.

Click to expand...

Really love that set-up, Dann. If I ever end up doing one of these again I'll definitely go with SMD's.

In the meantime I'm very much looking forward to receiving the new PCB from DaveP. Sourced a few parts from early 80's calculator I might add to it and curious to see how I'm going to fit it on top of the mechanics.

Very nervous to cut into such a lovely piece of work though!
 
BRRogers said:
what was odd was that for the blinking leds (datasheet) I found the low end Hz should have been fast enough to match the scene; however even using a 1.5v soloBattery they’re still not quite fast enough to match the scene. At some point I might try from a different bin (or more reliable vendor?)
Click to expand...
View attachment 13507061.5Hz

View attachment 13507072.5Hz

I saw the 2.5Hz flickering LED you mentioned before, I bought a 2.5Hz flickering LED, and today I replaced the 1.5Hz flickering LED with the 2.5Hz flickering LED you said, which performed very well. The power supply is still 3V.(y)
 
Poikilotherm said:
View attachment 13507061.5Hz

View attachment 13507072.5Hz

I saw the 2.5Hz flickering LED you mentioned before, I bought a 2.5Hz flickering LED, and today I replaced the 1.5Hz flickering LED with the 2.5Hz flickering LED you said, which performed very well. The power supply is still 3V.(y)
Click to expand...

That looks awesome! Might have to switch out my LEDs after seeing all these other great builds :D.
 
I finally had a chance to unpack my new PCB from DaveP and I have to say these things are absolutely awesome! Pictures don't do justice to how cool this thing looks in person. Major props to Dave.

Already made my first modification by cutting of the right side of the board to be more in line with the original prop, but I might just leave the other side the way it is for now. It looks too nice!

pcb-dave.png
 
Took the plunge and modified the other end of my new DaveP PCB and really happy with the results. Wiring set-up is similar to how it was before, with the addition of a much smaller switch box.

In terms of how it looks and functions now it's as close to the original prop as I could have hoped for :D.

*updated with some nicer images and video*

pcb2.png




In action:

 
Last edited:
Hylo133 said:
Took the plunge and modified the other end of my new DaveP PCB and really happy with the results. Wiring set-up is similar to how it was before, with the addition of a much smaller switch box.

In terms of how it looks and functions now it's as close to the original prop as I could have hoped for :D.

*updated with some nicer images and video*

View attachment 1352665



In action:

View attachment 1352664
Click to expand...

Please make and sell the electronics in kit form lol ...
 
Daniel9789 said:
Please make and sell the electronics in kit form lol ...
Click to expand...
I appreciate it, but I already get frustrated enough working on my own builds :lol:. Especially when it involves tiny wiring and soldering.

Replicating a similar effect can be achieved without too much trouble with BRRogers wiring lay-out on the previous page.
 
Daniel9789 said:
Has anybody considered using and modifying Korbanths control box for this?

https://www.korbanth.com/products/ls6-gullwing-hero-control-box-with-light-up-function?variant=31284740161606

You could ditch the control box and use the PCB and battery. As the PCB is set up to make them flash in sequence ..

Video of them in action:


Credit to Khal at KR Sabers for the idea as I asked for his help and he suggested it .. legend.
Click to expand...
I tried fitting the LS6 PCB, but it's too big to fit in the control box of this particular build. The electronics are also very close to the edges of the board making it practically impossible to reduce the size.

Rewiring the PCB to operate from anything but the set-up with the two black buttons also isn't an easy task.
 
Srycantthnkof1 said:
Hylo133 Did you finish the saber/windvayne with a clear coat finish?
Click to expand...

Hi there! All the painted parts were finished with a coating of Semi Gloss. No coating was used on the bare aluminium parts. I used a generic brand of clear coat, but would normally recommend to stick with the brand of whatever paint you might use.

The windvane actually had a double coating since the Humbrol paint is quite delicate. I let both coatings dry for about 12 hours before applying the next one.
 
Srycantthnkof1 said:
Nice! Good to know. Been experimenting with the Ace Hardware Antique Gold with a matte clear coat on some scrap aluminum. I'm conflicted on which to go with since that Humbrol looks really nice.View attachment 1423670View attachment 1423671
Click to expand...
That looks really nice. I don't think you can go wrong with either one of the two.

What I personally like about the Humbrol is that it looks quite different depending on the amount of light hitting it, much like what seems to happen on the original prop. The Humbrol on mine tends to look anywhere between a golden hue and a deeper copper tone.
 
Hylo133 said:
That looks really nice. I don't think you can go wrong with either one of the two.

What I personally like about the Humbrol is that it looks quite different depending on the amount of light hitting it, much like what seems to happen on the original prop. The Humbrol on mine tends to look anywhere between a golden hue and a deeper copper tone.
Click to expand...
Oh sorry I didn't actually explain the two pictures. They are both the ace hardware paint. The top one was direct light and the second was with indirect lighting.

Also did you use a primer for the aluminum before you painted? Or did the two coats end up fixing any weirdness?
 
Srycantthnkof1 said:
Oh sorry I didn't actually explain the two pictures. They are both the ace hardware paint. The top one was direct light and the second was with indirect lighting.

Also did you use a primer for the aluminum before you painted? Or did the two coats end up fixing any weirdness?
Click to expand...
:D All good.

I didn't use a primer, but in restrospect probably should have. Getting the paint to stick in the windvane area was quite tricky, taking a few tries to gently sand off any residue paint without chipping the main body of lacquer.
 
Hylo133 said:
:D All good.

I didn't use a primer, but in restrospect probably should have. Getting the paint to stick in the windvane area was quite tricky, taking a few tries to gently sand off any residue paint without chipping the main body of lacquer.
Click to expand...
Good to know! Thanks again and when I start that process Ill keep you posted how it goes :)
 
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