PVmodels
Active Member
Are you thinking about buying a Denix based DL-44 kit or already bought one? That was me 2 months ago. It was my first metal prop and I only had tools for basic home maintenance and plastic model building. I spent a lot of time reading and posting on RPF identifying the tools and supplies I needed as I went. Sometimes I couldn’t find answers and improvised. The intent of this thread is to share all the things I used to make my DL-44.
The first group of items are for stripping, removing extra features, and adding new details to the Denix base.
I used the clamps a lot for holding parts and then would secure them in a table vise. The pin tool is needed to take the denix apart. I used 220 sandpaper to remove the denix finish. 400 to smooth out after. I only used the files on the denix logo, mold lines, and injection circles. The needle files were used a lot to refine edges. I used the dremel grinding wheel on the rough textured steel scope mount and brackets. Exacto knife was used to remove finish in areas the sandpaper couldn’t reach. The 5/8” forstner drill bit was used to remove the rounded part of the magazine plate. The cobalt drill bits were used to drill out the rest of the mag plate. Followed by the dremel grinding wheel and files. The dremel cutting wheel was used to cut a new mag plate out of 3mm aluminum. If you choose to do this, be aware that the aluminum plate will have to be painted later. It won’t take super blue or aluminum black. If you want to make the bolt firing pin removable, you can tap the hole with 1/4” 20 tap and get a 1/4” set screw at the hardware store. I replaced the rod part with 3.18 diameter stainless steel. Used JB weld to connect them after drilling a hole in the set screw. I used the cobalt bits to drill holes in the back of the denix to simulate the lock release. I used the flat, needle files to make it square. I also used the dremel cutting disc to remove the screw mounts for the grips because I got the brass escutcheons. The epoxy gun was used to secure the wood grips on the denix. One side was warped and they are loose if just held by the single screw.
The first group of items are for stripping, removing extra features, and adding new details to the Denix base.
I used the clamps a lot for holding parts and then would secure them in a table vise. The pin tool is needed to take the denix apart. I used 220 sandpaper to remove the denix finish. 400 to smooth out after. I only used the files on the denix logo, mold lines, and injection circles. The needle files were used a lot to refine edges. I used the dremel grinding wheel on the rough textured steel scope mount and brackets. Exacto knife was used to remove finish in areas the sandpaper couldn’t reach. The 5/8” forstner drill bit was used to remove the rounded part of the magazine plate. The cobalt drill bits were used to drill out the rest of the mag plate. Followed by the dremel grinding wheel and files. The dremel cutting wheel was used to cut a new mag plate out of 3mm aluminum. If you choose to do this, be aware that the aluminum plate will have to be painted later. It won’t take super blue or aluminum black. If you want to make the bolt firing pin removable, you can tap the hole with 1/4” 20 tap and get a 1/4” set screw at the hardware store. I replaced the rod part with 3.18 diameter stainless steel. Used JB weld to connect them after drilling a hole in the set screw. I used the cobalt bits to drill holes in the back of the denix to simulate the lock release. I used the flat, needle files to make it square. I also used the dremel cutting disc to remove the screw mounts for the grips because I got the brass escutcheons. The epoxy gun was used to secure the wood grips on the denix. One side was warped and they are loose if just held by the single screw.
Last edited: