List of tools and supplies to upgrade a Denix C96 for your DL-44

PVmodels

Active Member
Are you thinking about buying a Denix based DL-44 kit or already bought one? That was me 2 months ago. It was my first metal prop and I only had tools for basic home maintenance and plastic model building. I spent a lot of time reading and posting on RPF identifying the tools and supplies I needed as I went. Sometimes I couldn’t find answers and improvised. The intent of this thread is to share all the things I used to make my DL-44.

The first group of items are for stripping, removing extra features, and adding new details to the Denix base.
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I used the clamps a lot for holding parts and then would secure them in a table vise. The pin tool is needed to take the denix apart. I used 220 sandpaper to remove the denix finish. 400 to smooth out after. I only used the files on the denix logo, mold lines, and injection circles. The needle files were used a lot to refine edges. I used the dremel grinding wheel on the rough textured steel scope mount and brackets. Exacto knife was used to remove finish in areas the sandpaper couldn’t reach. The 5/8” forstner drill bit was used to remove the rounded part of the magazine plate. The cobalt drill bits were used to drill out the rest of the mag plate. Followed by the dremel grinding wheel and files. The dremel cutting wheel was used to cut a new mag plate out of 3mm aluminum. If you choose to do this, be aware that the aluminum plate will have to be painted later. It won’t take super blue or aluminum black. If you want to make the bolt firing pin removable, you can tap the hole with 1/4” 20 tap and get a 1/4” set screw at the hardware store. I replaced the rod part with 3.18 diameter stainless steel. Used JB weld to connect them after drilling a hole in the set screw. I used the cobalt bits to drill holes in the back of the denix to simulate the lock release. I used the flat, needle files to make it square. I also used the dremel cutting disc to remove the screw mounts for the grips because I got the brass escutcheons. The epoxy gun was used to secure the wood grips on the denix. One side was warped and they are loose if just held by the single screw.
 
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I found a set of 2mm number punches on amazon for the serial numbers. The font isn’t accurate but just having the numbers there fills in those blank spots in the denix. I had to use the bench vise with padding to punch the numbers on.
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The next group of supplies are for finishing the denix and other parts.
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Safety first: you’ll need a lot of nitrile gloves, eye protection, and I got a ventilator with acid gas cartridges. The bare metal was prepped with 400 sandpaper and gray scotchbrite. I got a glass bowl at the dollar store to hold the birchwood casey acids. I chose super blue for the zinc alloy denix, the steel scope mounts, and the steel flash hider (I recommend this over the aluminum one). I only used aluminum black on bull nose sleeve. All products were applied using cotton balls. I used the breakfree protectant as my oil on all the parts. I used a combination of 400 sandpaper and 0000 steel wool to weather the parts. The high heat rustoleum was for the aluminum scope bar and the mag plate I made. Paint masks for the extractor on the bolt and the back of the denix were made from Oracal adhesive vinyl. The extractor was primed and sprayed flat black followed by a dusting of gray. The anodized scope was wet sanding to remove the shine and then acrylic paints were used to add weathering.
 
A mill certainly would have been the smarter route…once you learn to use one. Some of the things you showed took a lot of time with files: like the work around the sight mount (my sight is vintage Mauser which saved some time) and the half circles for the bullet feed rails (round needle file). Cutting the magazine cover off was difficult. There was a moment with that where i thought I ruined the denix.

I don’t plan on doing another project like this.
 
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