Dday i opted for the igniter2 board with a z6 led from Naigon electronics http://www.saberigniter.com/igniter2.aspx
Here is the full demo
Here is the full demo
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Kylo Ren Saber hollow hilt for electronics
- Thread starter guabe
- Start date
vaderjeff1744
Well-Known Member
AWESOME!!! Looks GREAT!!!:thumbsup
dday
Sr Member
Awesome, thanks for this!
This is the printout I've got of the saber from a friend using a Ultimaker2 in PLA.
I'm going to wait for the Nano Biscotte to come back in stock since it's the cheapest option with the features I'm looking for. I'll get the awakening font from saberfont to mimic the rough sounds that we hear in the trailer.
I've built up a listing of parts at TCSS, maybe some saber builders can take a look and let me know if I've got everything.
(I realize I don't need both sound boards, I just added them to make sure I will be notified if either come into stock.
I am 100% worried about dueling with this, even a little since the yolk is printed plastic, I'm not sure it can take much stress before cracking the upper portion.
@guabe; where the blade fits in, how deep does it go and is the thicker section under the insertion point also supporting the blade much?
I also wonder how you did up the electronics and battery inside the 28mm speaker mount casing. Are you able to remove the parts and show us the guts?
Also, can you explain the need for the kill switch in the bottom?
If you go with the Nano V2 you dont need a kill key. I used a custom made chasis that holds the 2.1mm recharge port.
Printing in PLA dows make it a bit more fragile. Mi hilt was printed at shapeways and sculpteo and they are far stronger, I tried light dueling and seems fine. The problem I have is the balance of the blade, its heavier in the blade side thus making it dificult to do stunts with it; but it was never meant for that. The pocket is 1.825 deep for a 1 inch thick blade.
I also made the spikes longer now.
I'm not done yet
Printing in PLA dows make it a bit more fragile. Mi hilt was printed at shapeways and sculpteo and they are far stronger, I tried light dueling and seems fine. The problem I have is the balance of the blade, its heavier in the blade side thus making it dificult to do stunts with it; but it was never meant for that. The pocket is 1.825 deep for a 1 inch thick blade.
I also made the spikes longer now.
I'm not done yet
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Chicagovader
Sr Member
Turned out great! I plan to use the original spark board by NEC with a 3 up red Orange tri Cree so it looks a Lil different color wise to my Vader saber. I will put a couple of Red Leds for the Side Spikes, I think the spark will be able to handle the amps to the LEDS just fine with a 3400 mah 18650 B by orbtronics. I want to be able swap out the battery of need be, does the back end of the saber screw off easy? If not I guess I would have to use a recharge port.
dday
Sr Member
If you go with the Nano V2 you dont need a kill key. I used a custom made chasis that holds the 2.1mm recharge port.
http://www.skullgarrison.com/gus/Lightsabers/KRChasis.jpg
Printing in PLA dows make it a bit more fragile. Mi hilt was printed at shapeways and sculpteo and they are far stronger, I tried light dueling and seems fine. The problem I have is the balance of the blade, its heavier in the blade side thus making it dificult to do stunts with it; but it was never meant for that. The pocket is 1.825 deep for a 1 inch thick blade.
I also made the spikes longer now.
I'm not done yet
I like the longer spikes! I haven't had those printed just yet, just the saber.
The speaker chassis from TCSS, will I easily be able to strap the battery and board and stuff in or should I be looking for another board holding piece?
**EDIT*** Found the battery holder that fits in the speaker mount which holds the board. A little bit of a pain that it doesn't work the prewired NB board. Fine soldering like this is... meh.
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Going to start printing this tonight. Does the bottom half need support? In going to split the top half vertically and print it in 2 pieces to avoid support there
dday
Sr Member
Based on the details and having had this printed, the files are finished as they are, with all supports or lack of them built in. I haven't heard about anyone who printed this needing to add any thing. The files are pretty much upload and print.
Chicagovader
Sr Member
wouldn't that make the emitter section weaker since you'll have to glue the two halves together? Seems the weight of the blade could start to split the emmiter section of the saber.
dday
Sr Member
I've put up a semi build thread on TCSS and tried to link back to here and credit you Guabe for your work but they removed the link and name recognition because of forum rules or something. Maybe because you well parts? I don't know, whatever.
Once I finalize the list and order I will put up some links here for others to follow, this will be my way of giving back for giving us these great files!
Once I finalize the list and order I will put up some links here for others to follow, this will be my way of giving back for giving us these great files!
The best and easies configuration would be to do this:
It would involve using all parts from TCSS.
sound board: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Nano-Biscotte-Sound-Module-V2-P806.aspx
Chasis: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-speaker-mount-V6-For-28mm-Speakers-P892.aspx
battery holder: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/18650-Single-Cell-Holder-P886.aspx
and other stuff from there.
You would need to find a way to secure this chasis to the coupler, that way you can unscrew the whole body to replace the batery very easily, or use long cables to the led so that when unscrewing the body it has enough twist on them not to damage them.
It would involve using all parts from TCSS.
sound board: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Nano-Biscotte-Sound-Module-V2-P806.aspx
Chasis: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-speaker-mount-V6-For-28mm-Speakers-P892.aspx
battery holder: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/18650-Single-Cell-Holder-P886.aspx
and other stuff from there.
You would need to find a way to secure this chasis to the coupler, that way you can unscrew the whole body to replace the batery very easily, or use long cables to the led so that when unscrewing the body it has enough twist on them not to damage them.
Ordered through shapeways, thanks a lot! Very excited for this to arrive
I seem to have broken the transparent acrylic option on your spikes, gucabe.. sorry!
Was about to ship then I noticed the status on my 2x spike was back to 'processing' - just now I saw it was cancelled!
Hope this isn't a pain for you to fix
Was about to ship then I noticed the status on my 2x spike was back to 'processing' - just now I saw it was cancelled!
Hope this isn't a pain for you to fix
ARKM
Sr Member
I would start by reading threads that are about installing electronics into sabers. You can find these on various saber related forums such as Imperial Royal Arms, The Custom Saber Shop Forum and FX-Sabers. Warning, you may have to do a crap ton of reading. Some of the threads will have basic wiring diagrams and the downloadable manuals for the various saber soundboards on the market also contain wiring diagrams. You can download these manuals for free without having to purchase the soundboard first. Naigon's Electronic Creations and Plecter Labs make extremely excellent soundboards for sabers. You may need to visit their websites for some of the manuals. The Custom Saber Shop and the Graflex Shop both carry a blade holder/LED heat sink module designed to fit in a Graflex flash unit. I hope that helps.
dday
Sr Member
Yup, he got a fishy email about intellectual property rights and didn't want to get on the wrong side of a big, powerful company.
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