Kylo Ren Hasbro Force FX Lightsaber

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from http://www.amazon.co.uk/Star-Wars-A...3&sr=1-1&keywords=star+wars+the+force+awakens
 
I finally got my FX Saber at Books-A-Million, for $150! I got 10% because of my membership, and another 20% off from a coupon. Super stoked to finally have this, especially after getting messed around by Barnes and Noble, and the rude phone call they gave me last week. ><

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Here's a final update on th the mods I've been making to my force fx. Finished the paint job, basically just made the weathering look more like the pics of the hero prop.
View attachment 564659View attachment 564660View attachment 564661View attachment 564662

Mod kit update
I also couldn't find the size metal I need for the kits for the price I found, I should have bought way more stock with the cyber Monday prices. I can Still do the kits just for $55 instead of 45, sorry guys. Pm me if you're still interested so I can start making kits.

Any more kits? If so put me down for one. Pm me the details so I can get my order in. Thanks. Saber looks way better
 
Hi guys I have the only @ toysrus Kylo Ren saber, plastic one if you guys need clarification, but on a section of my blade a small area isn't lite, Is the strip of LEDs broken ? And how can I open it up to fixed it. Can you guys help I really want to avoid buying a new one so I want to try to fix it first. Way to spend my Christmas Eve :unsure Help me guys your my only hope.:(
 
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Any more kits? If so put me down for one. Pm me the details so I can get my order in. Thanks. Saber looks way better

Pm sent.

What came of the blade mod? Did I miss it?

No man, you didn't miss it. I have to two sided mold finished but don't really know where to go from there. Plus I got distracted on modding the handle. If anyone here have anyexperice casting stuff some help would be much appreciated. I don't really know exactly how to proceed.
 
Pm sent.



No man, you didn't miss it. I have to two sided mold finished but don't really know where to go from there. Plus I got distracted on modding the handle. If anyone here have anyexperice casting stuff some help would be much appreciated. I don't really know exactly how to proceed.

Understood, I know how that goes! As far as casting you may want to look into some of the products offered by http://www.smooth-on.com/ They have a bunch of different things that might work well for this.
 
Understood, I know how that goes! As far as casting you may want to look into some of the products offered by http://www.smooth-on.com/ They have a bunch of different things that might work well for this.


I used smooth on's Silicone oomoo 30 for the cast. I just don't know what clear resin to use for the sleeve itself, and how to actually cast it. I was originally thinking of casting with a cylinder inside and pouring from the bottom down through the gaps, but there might be too many air bubbles that way and I don't know if the clear epoxy I got is thin enough to go all the way down also the cast parts are actually pretty thin. Now I'm thinking of maybe slush casting it. But again don't know which clear resin to use for that.
 
I used smooth on's Silicone oomoo 30 for the cast. I just don't know what clear resin to use for the sleeve itself, and how to actually cast it. I was originally thinking of casting with a cylinder inside and pouring from the bottom down through the gaps, but there might be too many air bubbles that way and I don't know if the clear epoxy I got is thin enough to go all the way down also the cast parts are actually pretty thin. Now I'm thinking of maybe slush casting it. But again don't know which clear resin to use for that.
You might want to check out this: http://www.smooth-on.com/Urethane-Plastic-a/c5_1120_1156/index.html

I'm not sure how strong it would be in this application though.
 
This might work, thanks a lot man!. I don't know which to get though 202 is recommended for parts 1/16-1/2 in but the pot life is only 90 mins. Clear 200 is recommended for parts 1/2-3in and the pot life is 20 mins. I'm leaning to go 200 but I don't know if it would be fine with thinner parts. I need the long pot life to get it to pour all the way down. Unless I do slush cast it.
 
This might work, thanks a lot man!. I don't know which to get though 202 is recommended for parts 1/16-1/2 in but the pot life is only 90 mins. Clear 200 is recommended for parts 1/2-3in and the pot life is 20 mins. I'm leaning to go 200 but I don't know if it would be fine with thinner parts. I need the long pot life to get it to pour all the way down. Unless I do slush cast it.
I watched the demo and it looks pretty pourable. I would call their tech support and see what they have to say about it. If you plan on keeping the original blade I think either one would work but I'm not sure which would be easiest to work with.

I would think about pouring the liquid into the mold and then inserting the blade. You'd have to be careful to not get too close to the edges but that probably wouldn't make too much of a difference, now that I think of it. This would also minimize the amount of product you would need as well.
 
I watched the demo and it looks pretty pourable. I would call their tech support and see what they have to say about it. If you plan on keeping the original blade I think either one would work but I'm not sure which would be easiest to work with.

I would think about pouring the liquid into the mold and then inserting the blade. You'd have to be careful to not get too close to the edges but that probably wouldn't make too much of a difference, now that I think of it. This would also minimize the amount of product you would need as well.

I have an aluminum tube that's the size of the blade on the fx, I wax gonna spray some release on that and slide it between the silicone mold. The I sandwich that with two pieces of ply to keep the mold straight and rigid. I have spacers on the top and bottom that keep the cylinder inside pretty much center.

Then I was gonna pour down the cracks and wait till it seeps to the bottom, seal it then keep it standing until it cures.
 
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